147 2.0 TS: Crank Sensor - From the Top? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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147 2.0 TS: Crank Sensor - From the Top?

Drove 850 trouble free miles over the weekend in the 147, no problems whatsoever (apart from knackered gear linkages and a stiff 4th gear). Averaged 38 mpg, really happy so far...

Car wouldn't start the morning after, cranking over, battery fine, fuel pump working, fuel in car. Got a diagnostic tool on it and I get the dreaded P0335 Crank Sensor code. Thought this fault would be intermittent, but its just gone.

Car is parked on a hill, I can't move it, and I won't be able to get underneath it.

Anyone had any real world experience of getting in from the top? Is it actually possible without double jointed wrists or a highly skilled ferret mechanic? I've read various posts about removing the throttle body, battery and air intake. I've got to get them out of the way to do the gear linkages anyway.

Should I do the knock sensor while I'm in there? I'm getting pinking under load also, but no fault code is being generated.

Last edited by JoeH147; 15-07-15 at 11:00.
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Yeah you can get it from the top.
Move the air intake by the throttle body but it'll be easy enough. One allen or hex bolt and the sensor will come out.

You are working blind though. and there isn't much space at the back either.
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Cheers for that, fingers crossed it comes out easy.

If I wanted to take the throttle body out, is there anything to be wary of? Its a fly-by-wire throttle so I'll try and not disturb the butterfly. Just a bit concerned about messing with those big ECU connectors on top.
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It can be done, as others have said, from above. That's how most people do them. Pretty sure there are several "how too" on here.

Just make sure you retrieve the original O ring and that it doesn't stay in the block. A sensor on two O rings sometimes doesn't work!

Working blind is a PITA but myself and others have done it.
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You can do it in around half hour and don't need to move the intake. Ive done it like that but ive got slim arms but you will get a fair few scratches
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It took bloody ages to get the battery tray out, that bolt between the fuse box surround and the air filter housing...grrrr

Getting those clips off the gear linkages when I changed the top hat bushes whilst in there is tough, you can lever on the walls of the housing with a short flat screw driver.

I can feel the crank sensor, feels like discovering some ancient gem in the middle of some ancient forest. The new one should be here today. I can see the knock sensor so will replace that too, might as well while I'm there.

Is it common for the crank sensor to just fail instantly like this? Did a hard drive of 5 hours the night before, doing 65+ on the A1, ran fine, stopped fine, started fine at the services, next morning it had failed. Wonder if the heat killed it and in the morning after it had cooled it died. This car had been sat for months before I pressed it into daily duties so I presume its expected that things will start popping all over the place.

For anyone attempting this, here's the kind of hole you need to create to get at it without flaying yourself:
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They do go pretty quickly. It's a hall sensor and they are very sensitive. They aren't expensive and wow you really stripped it all out.

I leave it all in place and just get my arm to bend round like Mr Tickle.
Heat kills them usually but they are easy enough to replace.

I've gone through two so far but generally they last over 100k.
The reason mine have failed is because I've replaced with second hand units of spare engines.

But without it your car doesn't know when to fire the ignition. Think of it as a distributor.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyf View Post
wow you really stripped it all out.
ha ha yeah, I'm doing the top hat bushes at the same time whilst its off the road, I won a whole new genuine plate off ebay for 15 so thought I'll fit that and see if it cures the loose gear change. It hasn't - lots of play in the gear box actuator arm and I think my bushings are shagged at the gear stick end too.
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They get like that and yes it will be the bushes.
Metal doesn't tend to bend or wear on those sides. But the rubber bushes and plastic bushes do.

Nice try though for 15.

Well I am sure removing all that helped to get to the crank sensor. Least you can do it all in one hit. Making life a little easier.
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I don't fancy dropping the exhaust to get at the gear stick bushes just yet...

Anyone know if a Torx bit will fit and undo a Hex/Allen head? I've not got a 5mm allen key bit to hand, the only one missing from my set!

Seems like it should, I've never really thought about it before.
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Yes it will do.
But if the bolt is rusted you are more likely to round it off.

You can buy a torx set from somewhere like machine mart for a tenner. I used to use them until i bought a set. But you can apply so much more torque with the correct fittings.

Another old skool trick is when you don't have the correct size socket. use a smaller one and jam a flat screwdriver in to make up the difference.

Bodgery at its finest.
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It would be fun aiming a screwdriver and a socket into the crank sensor screw whilst blind and bent double!

One question scottyf (thanks for the help btw): did you bother clipping the wire back into the clip under the manifold?

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Did I heck. I just cable tied it back in. I wasn't going to go through the trouble of threading it through.
Didn't seem worth it when there are no moving parts back there anyway.

As long as its attached to the block should be fine. As that will move about in the the engine bay anyway.
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+1 for not clipping in the new cable - I never took the old one out either.......those clips on the plenum are a PITA....

I just hope after all this it starts.......on a slope and anything under a quarter of a tank of juice can mean no fuel pickup.......still. you did the gear linkage
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Where is it in the picture scott?
Mine hasnt died yet (only bit that hasnt!) so might be handy for future reference...
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Where is it in the picture scott?
Mine hasnt died yet (only bit that hasnt!) so might be handy for future reference...
Here you go
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...locations.html (Sensor Locations)
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Ta, that's handy. How did I miss that?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeH147 View Post
Anyone know if a Torx bit will fit and undo a Hex/Allen head? I've not got a 5mm allen key bit to hand, the only one missing from my set!.
Use the correct tool.
Not difficult to find.
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Use the correct tool.
Not difficult to find.
Yes I agree, i thought better of it in the end. I didn't bother to use the Torx head for it. I was in rush, but rushing means mistakes so didn't want to risk rounding off the bolt.

Working on a rural business park, plus living in a one horse town with local shops that only open at 9am, means getting tools short notice is near impossible, especially without a car.

In the end I borrowed a colleague's small socket set that he uses on his bikes, it had a small 3/8" driver, but the most useful bit was a small t-piece attachment that I found perfect for getting that bolt out, enough to get leverage in the confined space too. Before I had that, it was proving nigh on impossible. I don't know how you guys do it without clearing a large access space first. I could get my hand in, but lining the head of the socket up with the bolt with only one hand, then having enough space to move your hand back to the ratchet to apply pressure is incredibly difficult.

Good thing while I was in there I bled the clutch and now have a nice biting point and a firm brake pedal, cleaned the crankcase breather out too which was completely gunned up.

I notice evidence of threadlock on the sensor bolts, is this advised upon reassembly?
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All back together, running like a dream (apart from the gearbox). New spark plugs and a new set of non-cracked coils has helped too.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
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My 147 2.0 TS, super car is very comfortable.
http://images3.polovniautomobili.com...57-800x600.jpg
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