Clutch change Alfa GT - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Clutch change Alfa GT

Hi all,

The clutch on my wonderful Alfa GT 3,2 is gone. The seller has agreed to provide me with a new one - so now I only need to have it fitted.

Here in Denmark, it seems they have set 9 hours to do the job. With prices of upwards 120GBP/hour, it can prove rather expensive.

However, my own local trusted mechanic could probably do the job - but is a bit nervous that it axtually takes 9 hours. So - what is needed to do the change? Do you need to remove the engine totally to access the clutch or how does it work?
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No different from doing a clutch change on a 156 IMHO
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i did a write up of when i changed mine if u search on here you should find it....or ill paste it into here for you

allow a day and a half if doing it things right and dont rush....the gearbox will come out with engine in but its tight.....a few friends will be handy for removal and refitting
i did mine in day and a half at the road side infront my my house..
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It would be a "real" mechanic doing it. But since he hasn't tried before, he is a bit worried about the time spent - as he will be doing it in his spare time (in a garage though). I've tried to find the write up you are talking about hdseven, but can't seem to find it? Would be a great help if you could post it againg - thanks a lot.
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clutch on a gt is doable it not simple and takes time but you can do it at the side of the road on on your drive, it will take you 8 or nine hours spread over 2 days, you can do some service work too like clean up the egr while is off....clean out airbox, turbo pipe, fit new air filter

slacken wheel bolts,Jack the car up from passenger side as high as you can, i slid juck under the car then slid some wood under the jack just to get a bit more lift, sit the car on a axle stand using the pad with hole in it done leave the car on the jack, if the jack fails you will be crushed, plus your going to need the jack under the engine

under tray is the first thing that needs removing......torx bolts and regular bolts
exhaust bolts heated and 6 sided 12mm socket, use extension on top nut so u can get onto it properly, i did have a go at bolt further back to remove the front section but decided to just unclip the rubber mounts and lower it to the floor, this worked out ok

passenger side suspension needs to be stripped down so its wheel off
36mm thin wall socket to undo hub nut, and long bar, i used telescopic wheel brace arm, and someone holding brake on is helpfull< thats why you do the nut first
22?mm socket for bottom ball joint,7mm allen key to remove brake caliper,17 mm socket for upper wishbone ball joint and split it,17mm socket for track rod end
to break the ball joints i use the shock techique of giving the bit the shaft passes through a few sharp cracks with a hammer at same time as levering with a bar, sometimes easy sometimes hard, but it ensures i dont damage the rubber boots
hub carrier should come off now, unclipp the wheel sensor from the leg and you should be able to rest the carrier on the floor stood up
remove the plastic trim to reveal end of gearbox
undo the clip holding inner boot on drive shaft and pull the drive shaft out of the cup and put somewhere safe
there is no need to remove the cup from the diff as the gearbox will come out with it on

engine cover of 3x10mm bolts
egr valve off...8 10 and 12 mm bolts
this give you better access to starter motor and worth the 5 mins to do it

battery out, cover for bottom of battery tray out, 4x10mm bolts to remove
top of fuse box infront of battery ouf, unbolt the wire held with 10mm nut,lift fuse board up on its pivots to reveal 10mm nut underneath, removing the wires clipped in the middle and the bottom multiplug helps accesss.
fuse box will wiggle upwards now to reveal 2 more 10mm nuts, undo these and remove the tray fuse box sits on, you can now remove battery try from its air box mounting and lift out of the car
remove the circlip holding selector arm on, dont worry about marking it up as it will only fit on one way, there is a big flat area between the splines, and remove circlip holding slave cylinder in and slide it out of holder and unclip the pipe where its clipped to gear box and then carfully tuck it up out of the way, unclip the reverse light plug too

unbolt the air intake and push though hole and twist it off,remove lower turbo hose, remove plug from servo and lower servo pipe,i broke the end of the connector and pipe wouldnt stay on so sleeved it with some rubber pipe of same size, i heated one end in boiling water to push it over the more rigid original pipe, unbolt the maf unit as the airbox is coming out..........downhill

starter motor unbolt it and pull it out, leave it where it side 2 x 13 mm bolts and one underneath access tight but not too hard

drain gear box oil..... catch oil in 2 liter milk carton with top cut off
on top of gear box undo the push on cables for gear change, long nosed pliers should be able to prise them off,i removed the arm too
unbolt the gear selector unit, this interfeers with inner wing, remove if u want but i had enough room by twisting it, also unbolt the cable holder just to rear of selector and lift plates of the studs, all nuts are 13mm

the gearbox itself 1s a mix of nuts and bolts 15 and 19mm there are not too many but dont forget the one up by the starter

get a jack under the engine to take the weight, use a piece of wood as a pad on the sump, remove the bolts from the rear mount, mix of 19and 24mm, remove the front mount aslo

that should be it and the gear box should wiggle of the studs now

keep the jack under the engine and keep the engine high enough for the cup on the gear box to pass over the subframe, there is just enough room to slide it to the inner wing/front of car and it will lower to the floor, if should slide of the the inboard drive shaft so dont worry about that one

the clutch is held to DMF by a few torx bolts and will need levering off the locating pegs it sits on, the thrust bearing stays fitted to the pressure plate

take this chance to grease the lower bush for the bearing arm in the gearbox, i will lift up out of it and also do the top bush this will keep clutch nice and light and smooth

to line the clutch plate up i used a maglight torch wrapped in tape till it was a good fit, hold the friction plate and pressure plate together and tap it on to the dowel pins, insert the bots, and line up the friction plate with the maglight torch, then simply tighten the bolts bit by bit going to alternate ones to keep the pressure plate nice and even, dont just wind them all down one at a time
do not fit the release bearing to the pressure plate! that sits on its arm untill the gear box is bolted up tight, do make sure that the black ring is covering the retaining clip, if i cannot see the clip then it is !, and fit it to the arm the right way or the box will be coming off again!

a stong rope or webbing strap and idealy 2 mates is needed to get it back in, one to lift the box va the rope/strap, one underneath to wiggle and guide it, and one sat in wheel arch supporting the end of the box, prob to 10 mins to manouver it into place, studs and drive shaft hinder the fitting as does the top selector, but as it was unbolted we could twist it just out of the way,a wiggle and a shove and a move of flywheel and it slid home, nice feeling!!

this bit is quite important, bolt gearbox up good and tight with all the bolts,place the arm back on and push it towards where the slave cylinder should hear and feel a click and the arm should be fixed in one place now.......if it as not done this something is wrong, dont go any further, box will need to be unbolted, thats why it was important to make sure the bearing was right way round and with the plastic cover over the retaining ring, you cound try a tube over the arm to apply more pressure but mine went on with a simple shove

then its just a case of bolting everything back in place and filling the gearbox back up with oil.....i found the starter motor bolts the most annoying, everything else seemed ok, i fitted the airbox back inplace too before the side mount on the gear box as there was more room to get it in
to fill the gear box was looking like a pain in the backside so i looked for a suitable funnel.....and found on in an old tube of silicon, the big ones that go in the gun, the nozzle fitted gear box nicely and the big wide tube was a easy target to hit with oil, it may also be handy to have some zip ties and jubilee clips handy for hoses and drive shaft boots

would i do it again........yes if need be in a few years or on next alfa......would i do it for you.......NAH !
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Its quite a lot more difficult on the 3.2 than on the 1.9 JTD, top starter motor bolt in particular is a pain the first time you have to do one. I would say 9 hours the first time is about right. You can do it with the subframe in but you'll find it a lot easier with it out of the way, if you do drop the subframe then change the front anti roll bar bushes while its off.
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to get that top starter bolt you will need a 13mm socket in 3/8 drive and a lot of extension bars and get to it from the cambelt end of the engine and thread it through the gap to the bolt head, it will just fit!

Your mech will be able to see it or feel it but not both!
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