On my car the only bleed points are the header tank cap and the radiator top valve. The heater inside the car bleeds itself.
To bleed it, you remove the header tank cap, run the car up to temperature, then unscrew the bleed screw in the radiator until you get only coolant with no bubbles through the valve. That's it. Squeeze the tubing to move water about.
I find that I have to add about a litre of coolant ver a week or so if I have draining the cooling system as it slowly burps itself.
If you have multiecuscan, that gives live temperature readings. The system should be fairly stable. I find fluctuations gradual, the needle doesn't visibly move. Biggest drop I get from 90 is coasting to a halt from speed say at a junction, I might travel 1/2 to 3/4 mile on a closed throttle, the water pump still runs, but the fuel will stop injecting. The cooling system gets rid of a lot of heat until the stat closes.