the boost solenoid pulls the vac at the actuator to maximum to give max spool position or vanes closed down, at this point the vnt arm should be resting on the stop screw on the outside of the turbo body.
your issue appears to be the other way , at min spool position or towards that end .
boost solenoid calls low vac to actuator, spring in actuator pushes the vnt arm away from the stop screw until eventualy at full min spool position vanes fully open the arm rests on an internal pin in the turbine housing that cant be seen from outside.
from the arm touching the stop screw(full spool) to arm resting on internal pin(min spool) the gap I measured between the stop screw and the arm itself was about 9mm-10mm.
the actuator rod itself probably moves slightly less due to lever lengths.
if you can get close enough to turbo to measure.
confirm with car running at idle arm is pulled all the way to the stop screw.
confirm with still running at idle , pull off the silicone pipe to the turbo actuator, the vnt arm should now be pushed to min spool position, quite fast, smooth and travel around 9-10mm.
if it doesn't still looks like vnt vane issue or turbo actuator itself.
actuator would need splitting from vane arm to test actuator on its own, repeat vac pipe back on and then disconnect again if this travels further or smoother without being connected to arm , sicky vanes ? you would be able to feel just the vnt arm and vanes with actuator disconnected anyway.
trouble is I bet its a turd of a job to do on the car.
I will try to make another video for you later,
look at this one again
this pic shows gap to measure and the clip to split the actuator rod from arm(might also need to loosen mounting bolts to get off )
as said I havnt done it on the car and I wouldn't like to try either, might be easier on a ramp but possible nightmare on the drive.
I have another vid simulating turbo running conditions if it helps understand position of arm and spool or shaft speed