If they are leaking, a "simple" delete will not work! If you are leaking boost, that will have to be fixed until such time as you can deactivate the swirls.
If you take a look at the bar atop the inlet manifold, is the bar actually on the swirls or has it fallen off? Is there a lot of gunk around the top of the swirls?
How do you know the swirls are leaking? how do you know that the vanes are not sticking on the turbo - that is another issue that can be caused at around 3k rpm upwards with the boost pressure faults.
Do you have details of the fault code?
Take a pic of the top of the manifold and let's have a look at the bar.
The actuating arm for the siwrls is bolted to the bottom of the inlet manifold. Of the swirls, one is activated and the other are slave, i.e. the actuating switch will simply be attached to one of the swirls, underneath the manifold. You can simply remove the actuating arm and not unplug the switch - this way the ECU thinks the switch is doing it's job but it's actually not moving anything because it has been detached. However, you will have to work out a way of fixing the swirls in the open position.
Personally, I wouldn't use one of the blanking kits off ebay. I had to replace my manifold because of leaky swirls. I needed a quick change over because of a lengthy road trip the following week. The new manifold has uprated swirls/bar/whatever. However, I have kept the old manifold and the plan is to have the swirls removed from the old manifold, have some blanks machined to precision to fit in the manifold and weld them in. I will then, hopefully, have it fitted to a cloverleaf when I get one. Again, it has the bracket on the underneath for the actuating switch, which will remain in situ but won't be doing anything cos it has nothing to move!!!
Sorry for the diatribe but the more info we can share, the better for all of us! Get back with codes and pics, if you can.