In #5, I am just suggesting he put it all back as it was originally, but just with the new aerial that he has already acquired.
rgwm, you have me a tad bewildered, the Engine Management ECU is not coded, matched or security integrated to the Immobiliser Box.
All it does is receive a yay or nay release input FROM the immobiliser box/ecu.
(ECU stands for Electronic Control Unit NOT Engine Control Unit)
If the Engine Management ECU had anything to do with the Immobiliser as you suggest every time anyone replaced an Engine ECU they would ALSO have to replace the Immobiliser box & the KEY chip, would they not?
Depending on model each car has several ECU's, Engine, Immobiliser, Body, Selespeed ect.
(And again, I do apologise if it seems I am being disrespectful in any way. I have the UTMOST respect for you and anyone that takes time out of their lives to help on these forums. I hate using the typed word for such conversations, as so much can be taken the wrong way. As my dear departed mother would say, "It's not what you say, but how you say it that matters")
But we digress, and lets not get the poor chap confused.
1/ TEKNO where DID you get the new components from?
Taken from an earlier thread:
2/ "If the code light is remaining light as you crank the engine then it will never start, the immobiliser is preventing it.
SO, disconnect the battery for 45 minutes, have a cup of tea and a sticky bun, then short the + and - leads together then refit them to the battery, this may reset the immobiliser (so to speak). If that fails then I would say either the battery voltage is too low or the aerial has a fault. "
3/ Test the new aerial, should be around 4 ohms if you unplug it and put a meter across it...