Alfa Romeo Forum banner

156 2.0 selespeed engine busted

2K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  wrinx 
#1 ·
i have a lovely 2001 156. my pride and joy until last night anyway!
over the last few weeks i noticed the engine sounded a little clicky like a deisel. i put this down to it needing a tune up and ignored it.

last night i was driving at speed when the clicking noise got incredibly loud and the engine sounded terrible. the car wouldnt go past 60mph. it quickly got worse and sounded like 100s of nails were in the pistons so i came to a stop. The car turns on and runs but with an awful loud crunching sound and i dont know what it is.

by chance a guy walking his dog walked past and knew by the sound that i had an alfa as he was a specialist. he advised that it would be an expensive problem to fix that happens to so many when they get to around 70k.

I will get the car towed back to home today but i wonder what the hell i should do to get this problem sorted for as cheaply as possible because i have just lost my job and been a victim of fraud so i dont have any cash???

any help would be appreciated

alex :confused:
 
See less See more
G
#2 ·
Hi and sorry to hear about his. Sounds like the head has lunched itself or perhaps the bottom end has gone...but I think the head.

Bottom end will be cheaper but if the heads gone you'll be looking at over a grand to fix unless you just stick a second hand engine in.

When was the timing belt last changed?

wrinx
 
#3 ·
im not sure when the belt was changed. i bought the car off ebay in june and it was well serviced as a company car. i havent had any other problems with it but at the same time i havent done much to service it in this time either.

i wonder if this is something thats going to need a specialist to sort out or if i can get my local garage to sort it.
 
#4 ·
You don't say how many miles the car has done, but if it was a company car there is no way the belt (plus tensioners, etc..) would have been done before 72000miles/6-years.
(it is highly recommended to change at 36000miles/3-years now)
 
#5 ·
i have just been towed by the AA and it turns out that the oil had run completely dry! purely my fault. what an expensive mistake to make. we tried filling up with oil but there is two knocking sounds one clicking sound and another big clunking knock. i think its the top end for sure. i have a guy coming over to listen to it later and tell me if its blown up beyond repair in which case ill need a new engine. 70k by the way
 
#6 · (Edited)
If it has run out of oil it will be completely shot, main bearings, crank, everything... not good.

Edit: it also looks like you need a new bulb for the oil pressure warning light...!
 
#8 ·
Best start looking for a 2nd hand unit.:(
I just spent £1k fixing a 2 litre. :eek: That got me new pistons, big end, thrust and main bearings. Cylinder re-grind, port polish, refaced valves and new valves seats cut with 3 angles. Lightened flywheel and full engine balance. That was a nice trade discount, and I stripped and rebuilt it!

You'll probably not need the pistons and maybe not any head work. But, the crank could be shot beyond repair (twisted), but if the head is damaged, it would still require to be stripped for inspection.

I'm very sorry for you, but I doubt very much that repairing your engine is likely to be viable.:( 2nd hand engines are about £800. Removal and installation costs are likely to be £400.

BTW, you'd still have to fork out extra for new timing stuff- silly not to.
 
#9 ·
ally, you got a good price for the work you mentioned there! my engine has cost over 4k to date... gah!

wildboy, i cant add anything more than the rest but i wish you the best of luck with your car and for your sake i hope its not nearly as bad as has been suggested. i just had my head rebuild at a cost of over a grand. there not cheap when they die!
 
#11 ·
I have been quoted 2.3k + VAT for a replacement Engine. Original quote with factory recon engine was 3.1k. There do seem to be some secondhand engines around though. So worth shopping on ebay if you're looking.

Secondhand Engines quoted from £650 to £1350 depending on condition
 
#12 ·
ok well the mechanic turned the engine on an said the top end had gone in an instant. I have decided to get a second hand engine instead of trying to repair this one. I would like a refurbed one but since ive lost my career and been defrauded thousands i can only just get it sorted by maxing my overdraft...Ive found another year 2001 which is on sale for £940 including vat and delivery and its got only 40k on the clock which im guessing is an ok price?

now i need to find someone to fit it. my local garage is phoning back tomorrow with a price. what should i expect to pay for this?
 
#13 ·
sorry to hear this all too famliar story, you would not believe the number of Alfa owners which blew up their engines due to lack or low oil.....my brother (Alfa mechanic) has had many of these cases, usually people who had an Alfa for the first time and never checked the oil on their VW's or Opel's....etc
Alfa's need oil to stay healthy.... !!!!!
 
#14 ·
Yes, as Rarebear says, check your oil regularly. Its normal for a TS engine to use 1 litre every 1000 miles, and it only has a 4.5 litre sump. If they go below the min mark on the dip stick damage can easlity be done. To be honest it wouldn't suprise me if it had be run dry or low in the past. I realise that you are having to fix it to a budget, but if you buy a second hand unit you won't know if that's been run dry too.
 
#15 ·
You don't need a 2001 engine. The original 156 engine (32301) can be installed in a 2001 car (32310)-assuming it's a 2 litre. The only difference is that the later car has different exhaust manifolding twincats and lambda sensors, and fly by wire throttle. Simply change the exhaust manifold over, the throttle body, and retain the car's original ECU and engine wiring loom. Dead easy.

I know that because I did just that a few weeks ago. Also, I find the easiest way to change the engine is to drop it down complete with the transmission. Disconnecting the aircon pipes at the pump and removing the throttle body gives more space because it would foul the brake fluid reservoir. Also, it's best to do it with the pulleys for the PAS and crankshaft removed first.

I tired the engine only method, but find removing the whole lot is easier. There was too much mesing about removing the inlet manifold, PAS pump and alternator. Even then, space was very, very tight.

I would allow about 10 hours. That is a fairly reasonable chargeable labour time. Hopefully that would also include belt change etc and swaping over any other bits. If the garage has done it 2 or 3 times, then perhaps they would be prepared to lower the labour time as I know I can now do it a bit quicker.
 
#16 ·
You will also have the added complication of the Selespeed actuator.
You have two ways of dealing with the actuator:
1: leave it on the gearbox and disconnect the hydraulic pipes.
2: remove it from the gearbox, meaning you do not need to touch the hydraulics.

The actuator is quite big so you may want it out of the way when removing the engine & gearbox.
 
#19 ·
Wildboy, did you get a quote as to how much your old one would cost to fix? I had a second hand engine supplied and fitted to my 33 for £900 a couple of years ago, so £1800 seems a lot IMHO
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top