Recently the clutch pedal on my 2.5 V6 156 went floppy with only the last inch of travel actuating the clutch causing extreme difficulty in changing gear. On investigation found the fluid very low in reservoir, refilling did not restore clutch action.
Read forum and found a number of queries regarding this problem so I will outline my experience and correction of fault. The replacement job took about 4 hours but should be faster using the tips given.
Me and my Dad carried out the job together... He's far better at describing the job than me... so this is his write up!!!
Apologies for length of description but tried to describe the procedure in detail and problems experienced.
Checked if slave cylinder situated just under the battery on the bell housing was operating, with the limited actuation of clutch pedal, and found there was some movement of the slave actuating rod with no sign of fluid leakage.
Next checked the clutch master cylinder actuated directly by the clutch pedal and found small drops of fluid coming from the rubber boot as clutch pedal was operated. So decided the master cylinder needed to be changed as the internal seals were obviously worn causing the leakage.
From the forum the change of the clutch master cylinder has given a number of people terrible problems mainly due to almost impossible access to the master cylinder outlet connection which is somewhere in the bulkhead.
On checking found no access to this connection also the rubber inlet connection was very close to the bulkhead and was going to be another headache to disconnect.Also one of the cylinder holding bolts was behind pedal work steelwork. Given what seemed an almost impossible task without decided to leave the old clutch master cylinder in place and replace the internal piston and seals with the piston from a new Master Cylinder as it was only the seals that was worn not the cylinder itself.
Job to replace cylinder internals
Remove the clip and washer from the pin securing the cylinder actuating rod to the pedal. Remove the actuating rod off pin, this was difficult as the rod moves at an angle to the pin as the other end of rod is in the cylinder but persevere it will come off . I used a large screwdriver as a lever and moving the pedal to aid the removal by changing the angle of pin to rod.Remove the rubber boot from the actuating rod which exposes the circlip which retains the piston in the cylinder. Using a circlip pliers remove the circlip, again not straight forward due to access. The old piston is now ready to withdraw from the cylinder, before withdrawing piston put some pvc on floor underneath cylinder and have a rag ready.
Before you remove new piston from new cylinder chamfer the leading edge of the actuating rod hole so it will help to get it on to clutch pedal pin.
Remove new piston from new cylinder as above (be careful not to damage the seals) and have ready to install in existing cylinder so as old piston is removed the new piston can be installed immediately, be ready with rag as fluid will come out as old piston is removed.
Picture of piston removed from cylinder ready to install in old cylinder is shown below.
(Picture actually shows the old piston with the new cylinder....I forgot to take a picture of the new master cylinder with all its bits removed!! Duh!!
156 Master Cylinder.jpg
Slowly push new piston into cylinder being very careful not to damage the seals as they enter the old cylinder. Replace the circlip, this is much easier than removal. Install the new rubber boot over rod on to existing cylinder.
Before installing the actuating rod on clutch pedal pin chamfer the leading of the bush on the clutch pedal pin to help ease the new rod on pin.
Install actuating rod on to clutch pin again a bit difficult but it will go on.I used a plumbers grips while at the same time moving the pedal up and down.
Be careful that the clutch pedal return spring (up inside the dashboard) does not come loose as it located by spring pressure and by moving pedal to remove and install actuating rod it can fall out of place. This spring must be in place before the actuating rod is installed on pedal.
Remove hosework above battery and remove battery to expose the bleed nipple on rear of clutch slave cylinder which is accessible through the battery tray cut-out.
Bleed clutch, I would advise bleeding until new fluid is visible.
After bleeding my clutch was functioning correctly.
Phew!!! Remember all the above is done while lying upside down in the footwell so it helps if you are flexible! Was a big relief when we completed this job successfully... been using the car all week and have had no problems... with reservoir level still at max.
Any questions then please message me and I will be glad to help if I can.This forum and its advice has helped me out on many occaisions.