I'm a noobie to the forum, been a memeber just a month or so. I changed the coolant on my 2004 147 2.0 Selespeed and thought I'd write a few notes that might help others. Beginning to end this took me about 1.5hrs. Second time I'd guess around 45mins.
I am not a qualified mechanic but am a bonafide petrolhead of fortysomething years of age and look to get cars back to original condition, preferring to prevent rather than fix broken stuff...
Talking of broken stuff, if, after reading this thread you make a mess of yourself or your car, blame the person holding the tools, OK?
1. Get the front of the car up high enough for you to safley work underneath - lying down is fine, just be more careful as a lot of fluid will leave the car....
1a. Do this job with a cold engine or the coolant won't be, er, cool.
1c. get a bucket to catch the old coolant, and something to stop you splashing your pretty block paving..
2. Using torx and socket, remove the big plastic undertray (if yours is still fitted):-
The Torx bolts are fitted across the underside of the front of the bumber/undertray (5 in all). The standard socket'head bolts are at the rear of the tray, 4 in all.
3. Take off the cap from the expansion tank (located on the upper left of the engine bay as you stand in front of the car).
4. Remove the small black rubber hose from the expansion tank. In the picture you will notice a standard jubilee clip on the tank end of the small rubber hose. These usually have another type of speed clip fitted, which simply prizes open with a carefully judged squeeze of a flat screwdriver. You can re-use these clips but I'd fit a new jubliee clip for sanity/ease, as I have done in the photo.
4. These little b'stards are speed clips whcih as far as I know are a one-time use only clip fitted by main dealers. Once you know how to remove them they are a doddle to get off:-
Basicaly, one of the small parts overlaps the other, locking the whole thing together. I used a small flat screewdriver and carefully prized open one part of the clip (from one edge towards the other) the the other side, in the opposide direction.
You ONLY need take off one of these big clips from the lower radiator hose, shown here:-
The jubliee clip you'll need will be in the range of 33-50mm size. They are about £1 for a pack of 2 from EuroCarParts (ECP).
4. This is where it can get messy...
This is the view of the bottom radiator hose, from UNDERNEATH the car. It is found close to the front of the car, passenger side and is seen through a triangularish hole. Luckily, the hole is big enough to get a screwdriver in (to remove the speed clip) and a socket wrench to tighten the new jubliee clip you are soon going to fit...
With the speed clip removed, without too much force, wriggle the big black hose off the right-angled radiator connector. The right-angled connector should stay on the radiator and IT IS PLASTIC so do go easy.
In the process of removing the big hose, my right-angled connector did leak a little (it moved freely in the radiator, as did the same connector at the top of the rad) but I believe this is normal and something that has stopped since I finished the job. Being plastic it will of course expand when the engine warms everything up.
Next, blow down the small hose you removed from the expansion tank. This helps get rid of the old coolant, but give the hose a wipe first...
One the old coolant has filled your bucket, pour some clear water in the expansion tank and you should see it come out of the disconneted large hose, also clean.
When all the old coolant has stopped coming out of the system, put everything back together, except the undertray. I would re-fit this only when you have run the engine and checked for leaks.
last step, add new coolant:-
Now, my workshop CD AND owners manual say 7.2 litres of coolant, but my car only took around 4 litres to fill the system. I've no idea why, but there you go..
I used pre-mix as the cost in the end is about the same as concentarted stuff, plus it's one less thing to do/worry about.
you MUST run the car and let it get up to around 90C so that the thermostat and fan get chance to do their thing and the whole system is in operation. You don't need to drive the car to do this, your undertray will still be on the floor, remember..There WILL be some air trapped in the system, and this crucial final step will let you see how much you have to top up.
There is a radiator bleed screw, a finger operated black plastic "lug" at the top corner of the radiator facing the rear of the car. It is there for a reason but I have read about these snapping, so to avoid £ and
, let the expansion tank work its magic and keep an eye on the level.
For those who know better, add your wise words at your leisure.