Anyone know anything about changing cylinder liners? Please, I have a very sick 156! - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Anyone know anything about changing cylinder liners? Please, I have a very sick 156!

Hi everyone, just finally got the front head off my 156 2.5, was hoping to change the gasket. Unfortunately, my worst fears came true, when I found a massive crack in one of the liners!

I realise to change this, sump will have to come off, piston/con rod will have to come out, liner out, new liner with new seal in, and piston back in. However, eLearn chooses to skimp over this whole changing liner area. It appears I can remove the sump without removing the engine, and I was wondering does anyone here actually know anything about changing liners? as my first question is:

1) Can the liner be changed without removing engine.
2) How is the liner sealed at the bottom, and is this a DIY job.
3) Im guessing I will also need new piston rings?
4) How common is this with Alfa's, and could it have been caused by a hard drive for about 30 miles, or would this have been building up over a while?
5) If I was to send it to a shop (just to have one liner done), any idea of approximate costings?
6) If I'm gonna put in this much effort why not scrap it / convert to 3.8?
7) Any idea of rough pricing to obtain following equipment required for 3.8; 6x liners, 6x pistons, 6x con rods, mods to block to allow liners inside, and does the head gasket need to be replaced, and how are the liners sealed top and bottom.?

Sods law, the interesting bits of Hamish's 3.75l post seem to have been edited out

Last edited by Rob 156; 17-07-06 at 20:32.
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Re: Anyone know anything about changing cylinder liners? Please, I have a very sick 156!

You may be able to remove the liner in situ.
Clamp the others down and turn the engine over by hand, with any luck, #5 will rise to tdc with the liner.
Failing that, remove the sump and #5 conrod and push the piston out from underneath with a cut down broom handle.
You can then remove the liner.

Clean the bottom of the block and tap a new liner into place.
Use piston ring compressor on the new rings you fitted to #5 piston and slide it into the well oiled new liner.

Oil crank and reinstall the conrod onto crank and torque up.
Cheack liner protrusion and refit head with new gasket.

Alternatively, throw a whole load of cash at it and increase to 3+ L.

The cams are left to rotate on the tapers and the cam locks hold the camshafts in the timed position.
Tension the belt so that the marks on the tensioner line up, ensure #1 is at tdc. (at least ensure the timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the bottom of the waterpump casting marks.
I marked my crank pulley in two places and used a rod down onto the cylinder to get it bang on.
A dti guage later proved that the timing was bang on (despite not being able to break the taper on 3 of the camshafts)!

Tighten cam sprocket bolts to 80nm.
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