depending on what way you're going about it i have some advice. If you're removing the drive shafts etc.. then ignore, but if you aren't then:
1. I found the easiest way of freeing the lower balljoint was to remove the 22mm bolt at the bottom of the hub and then get a trolley jack and push the suspension up at the point on the lower wishbone just under where the fork bolt goes. This is effectively then lifting the ball joint out of the hub by pushing against the suspension. I recommend you keep raising the jack until the point that you've JUST lifted the car off the axle stand on that side so the entire weight of that corner is pushing the balljoint out... then whack the balljoint from the bottom where you've just taken the bolt off - POP, in one.
2. You need some pry bars and hand grips. lining the bolts up is an illegitimate son and they often don't "fit" without persuasion.
3. You should be able to start threading the bolts which go from wishbone to subframe using just finger pressure. If you cross-thread the alu (the thick ones at the back) then it's new wishbone time. For this reason if you're re-using the bolts they need to be absolutely spotless before you copper slip and attempt to refit. see if you can thread the bolts before even fitting the wishbone, because if you can't you'll need new bolts and you don't want to find that out mid-fit.
4. once you get the old wishbone off loosen the 4 bolts of the suspension shock in the engine bay and tap it down a bit so it's a little loosey goosey. This should mean you can push the shock/fork towards the front of the car and it won't get in the way when it comes to fitting the new wishbone. it's a really difficult job if you have to constantly wrestle with the shock assembly because it's so heavy/sprung. When refitting make sure you hop the fork back over the wishbone before attaching the balljoint because you'll never get it back otherwise.
5. once you get the old wishbone off turn the steering wheel away from the wheel you're currently doing, then pull the hub towards you a bit and use the scissor jack in the boot to lift the hub up and out of the way. The action of turning the steering wheel away from the wheel you're working on pushes the back of the hub out and away from the car, and you're pulling the front of the hub yourself as only the CV/driveshaft boots are holding on. They should be ok with this little stretch, just don't overdo it. Doing this means you can get the new wishbone "level" without it fouling on the hub to make it easier to get the bolts in. you may need to remove the upper balljoint to do this though, i don't remember as i was doing both at the time.
also, you may find that the uppers aren't that far away from being knackered either, they have a similar life span. Mayhaps look at doing those and the drop links as well? they won't be much more and it'll be done then for another 3yrs (you'd hope! ha) and it won't be a problem doing point 5 then as you can happily knacker the existing upper balljoint covers removing them.
Last edited by diddums100; 21-10-13 at 20:49.