Thanks all for the suggestions. I have a lot of experience with Twin Sparks, and some with JTS's, but as with anything, you don't know how to fix a problem until you've done it before.
My knowledge of the Twin Sparks/limited knowledge of the JTS's tells me the following:
* If a camshaft sensor fails (you can test this by unplugging yours - its the furthest left plug on the rear of the intake manifold - blue from memory) - the engine will take a few cranks to start. Normally within 3-5 seconds the car will start as the ECU will just try each possible stroke until it starts. Therefore the cam sensor is ruled out. I've busted my fair share of cam sensors and this is the fault that results.
* If the crank sensor is faulty (which is common) it will prevent starting totally. This MAY be the issue I have once the car is warm - BUT it is unlikely I have two problems ???
OK, lets be honest, this may be true. I will therefore check for a spark when it does a total non-start when hot. This will test the crank sensor.
* The LP pump in the tank is producing a very good flow and pressure of fuel to the engine bay. If I take off the pipe and switch on the ignition the fuel pumps out normally. I therefore doubt if I have a LP pump issue. Its far too high pressure to hold and will "****" out if you release the pipe too fast. Really does hurt when you get it in the eye. I should know better really!
* As the LP pump is supplying the fuel happily, this also excludes a filter being an issue.
* Injectors - yes this could be an issue, but its more likely that one or two will fail - not all 4 at once. And remember that it does start with a bit of fuel in the intake (when cold). And when it does start it runs very well until turned off again (better now with the new pump)
You've all been a great assistance so far guys. Thank you. Seriously - Thank you. Keep it coming though.
So far I will test the wiring (again), the injectors, the crank sensor (when hot).
How can I test the fuel regulator? Any ideas?