Right, I'm stuck with sump removal.
I have nearly all of the bolts out. Unfortunately, there is one, right at the back that is visible, but not accessible to an 11mm socket. It is directly behind the intermediate driveshaft bearing. I can't even see how to free that up to give a bit more clearance. It is that my cheapo halfords 1/4 drive sockets are too fat, and that when I get my proper snapon kit onto it, it will have clearance ... .or is this the reason everyone is saying "engine out"?
If your car didn't have the heated seats in originally, should be a case of fitting a fuse in the right location, all the wiring is there from the factory
Will check this, and the seat switches.
When you were checking the valves, did you look closely at the valve guides
The check was just to see which ones are leaking. All of them are coming out and being checked properly for guide damange.
Update: sump is off, all 6 pistons and liners removed. This has been my office for the day:
That is a brutal job. At the front, the bolts are accessible but seized. Despite being as gentle as possible, two sheared - the good news is that they are in an easy place to drill out. The flywheel sensor shield conceals a few more, but that is easy, and you're starting to get cocky. The back row is something else. You need to remove the oil cooler pipes - but the 24 mm bolts to do this are up behind the engine. So you need to remove the rear manifold, which is held in with a heatshield. After much wiggling of the engine, it came free, the oil cooler pipes are easily undone, and then there is just the last bold behind the driveshaft bearing - 1/4" wobble drive eventually got it.
Unfortunately, some of the liners are toast - corrosion that doesn't hone out:
When I drained the sump, there was about 2 litres of antifreeze at the bottom, then about 6 litres of oil. Thankfully the antifreeze sinks to the bottom, so no damage has been done. The bearings were very clean - there were definite wear marks in the vertical plane, which could be genuine wear, or could be impact damage from the belt going.
The sump is now clean, and loosely mounted to prevent grot getting to the crank. I've soaked the whole thing in anti-rust fluid (Shell Ensis - brilliant stuff), cover the bores with blue paper and closed the lid. You can just see the new water pump on the left hand side.
As to what caused the damage...no idea. The water pump was fine. The tensioners seem fine, there is nothing obvious that failed - unless the belt just snapped.
So the quest is on to find some new liners. I'd happily reuse the existing pistons (with new rings), but I need a set of liners....
And a final question. How are you meant to change the oil filter when it is all back together? Even with the rear manifold removed, it is not going to be easy....