dual mass flywheel/clutch. 156 2.4jtd 20v m-jet
decided to replace dual mass flywheel and clutch and concentric slave/thrust bearing on garage floor, so far one and a half days later and just got gear box back in with one bolt, i can honestly say this is as total pain in the ass job to do. you need to remove both lower arms undo steering rack and front sub frame i managed to get gear box past the sub-frame by undoing all the sub-frame bolts and levering the sub-frame downwards. the starting motor is another right pain but you can remove the rear engine mount to get at the bottom bolt and when you undo the passenger side gear box mount and let the engine and box down on a angle it allows more room to get at the two top starter bolts. also the gear shift cables and bracket comes off all in one i cable tied these up and out of the way. don't forget the dual mass flywheel has got timing slots and must go on the same old one i used tippex just to be sure, you will also need ribe type torx spline type tools. i removed passenger side drive shaft and hub complete i'm also putting new lower arms on it at same time. but don't even bother trying to remove ABS sensor's in the hubs they just break off £38 each, just trace the wire back to bulkhead to unplug them. my car is a 2004 2 owners from new with 65000 miles on it be warned every nut and bolt has been a total battle don't think they have copper slip grease in Italy. compressor and impact gun would not move touch any of the bolts had to break them with 2 foot long breaker bar had a couple break off. i bought a recon dual mass flywheel and clutch with concentric slave/thrust bearing from alfa romeo main dealers VOSPERS in plymouth £530. and yes i tried getting a solid flywheel for the 2.4 jtd m-jet and no body does them. because this is the 6-speed f40 gearbox with the concentric slave. it is totally different from the 2.4 jtd 10valve with the 5 speed gearbox. and tomorrow i will do cambelt and waterpump while the engine is on a easier angle to get at it. i hope this information helps someone.
word to the wise dont let your freind help you. mine undid the steering UJ on the top of the rack. bad move. if this happens get the car tracked find a straight road undo the steering wheel and reset the steering wheel to middle again worked for me. otherwise the ESP thinking the car is sliding and dabs the breaks untill the warning light stays on. a garage will charge you a few quid to realign. done mine like this and its all happy again no warning EML.
i also done the cambelt and water pump at same time as dmf clutch. you will need the locking off kit for this one 2.4jtd20v engine. i thought i could get away with tippex. the kit locks off the cam and the crankshaft there are no usable marks on the 20valve engine, the crank tool;; you will need to remove the 10mm bolt from the oil pump housing to locate it. also you only need to remove the vibe type bolts from bottom pulley and do not need to remove the big center bolt, the cam lock off you undo the allen key stopper on the exhaust cam and insert the sliding pin. with this done your new cam belt will have 2 white lines which can only line up one way with marks on crank and cam pulleys, note one white line is in the middle on the tooth and other is on top of the tooth, these will only marry up one way with the direction arrows facing the correct way on the new belt. YOU DO NOT NEED TO TIME THE PUMP ITS ONLY FOR FUEL SUPPLY.
this job is not an easy one but a garage bill on this would of cost around £1800 i recon with cambelt kit, waterpump, dmf, clutch kit with concentric slave, lower arms and top arms. i think it cost me about £800 for parts.
Last edited by tezmike13; 31-05-13 at 08:53.