AO Car Of The Year Winner 2015
Join Date: Dec 2003
I hope someone can help here.
1) I Have a 2,5 V6, 24 Valve .... 2003 model with 2x CATS on the headers and 2x under the car. The car wasnt running too well and thought to look at the pipes so took them apart. There was a huge hole in the honeycomb insides of one of the front ones as well as the rear. I didnt think to see if the holes were from the same cyclinders i.e. left or right banks. I decided to gut all of them completely and put them back. Some of the material had blocked the one pipe after the CATS under the car which is what prompted me to do this. This would obviously cause a performance problem being blocked. There isnt any performance increase or difference after having put them back, even after a ECU reset. There are also no lights coming on on the dash as what I read in a similar thread.
My question is where to next without replacing the cats and leaving the gutted system in place? We have no laws on MOT exhaust emissions here. Does one have to bypass the Lambdas and dodge the ECU, and if so, how? Or what can one do to solve this without making new pipes for the car or having originals fitted.
2) Also, where is the fuel filter on this car?
3) Pardon my ignorance here, but a question on the oil pump. Its chain driven off the crank and the sprocket on the crank seems to be a relatively loose fitting bush over the crank. Is there any reason for this? Surely there should be a keyway or something to prevent it from slipping?
Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
1) You dont need to do anything, you can keep the front cats empty. You should not get any lambda errors. Its probably not the best performance solution as the gases will mix and cool down in the huge chambers left after the front cats, but should not cause you any real problems. There is plenty of us who removed the front cats on the V6 without issues.
2) Its part of the fuel tank/fuel pump and its not serviceable, you dont need to change it during the whole life of the car.
3) the oil pump is indeed chain driven from the crank but there is no key or lock. Its held by tap lock - by the the pressure of the aux belt pulley bolt that presses the pulley and oil pump drive pulley against the crank. Here is a picture:
the pump chain just slides on the crank and is loose until you tighten the pulley that will press it.
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