CV (Constant Velocity) Boot replacement - Alfa Romeo Forum
You are currently unregistered, register for more features.    
 1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
(Post Link) post #1 of 42 Old 04-03-12 Thread Starter
Status: Still trying to find that Noise...
AO Member
 
Chris_gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Essex
Posts: 922
CV (Constant Velocity) Boot replacement

Hi there,

sorry if this has been discussed before, i have searched the forum but need little more info

Basically my drivers side outer CV boot needs replacing as i noticed a small tear in it.

some people say remove the whole drive shaft by removing the 36mm hub nut. others say just remove upper wishbone joint etc...

i have seen that the knuckle joint (inner CV joint) has X6 bolts with spade type washers on every pair of bolts, am i right in saying the bolts are Ribe bits to undo the bolts?

i understand to use Loctite on these bolts and use correct Torque on workshop manual when tightening up.

to take the boot off:
am i right in thinking that the easiest way is from inner joint, ive seen in the W/S manual that there is a cap when you unbolt the 6 Ribe bolts, and underneath this is a Circlip holding the joint in?
Remove this Circlip and undo clips for boots and slide off both boots via inner joint.
(i want to replace both boots by the way)

is this straight forward as it seems or is there a few nightmares along the way.

Thanks in advance.

Chris
Chris_gta is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Lacken156
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
split it at the inner joint [ 6 bolts ], remove the remaining drive shaft, remove the Circlip, etc......

8mm Hex headed not Ribe

Last edited by Lacken156; 04-03-12 at 21:05.
 
(Post Link) post #3 of 42 Old 04-03-12 Thread Starter
Status: Still trying to find that Noise...
AO Member
 
Chris_gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Essex
Posts: 922
Hi Lacken156, thanks for the reply.

Quick Question... i am going to replace the hub nut anyway, but do i have to grind down the 36mm socket to fit into the hub? it looks rather narrow, (where is best place to get thin walled 36mm socket?)

i know that i have to stake the hub nut so that the folded in 'staked' tab is against the direction of movement.
Chris_gta is offline  
 
Lacken156
Status: - Update
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
i used a bench grinder to taper the end of the socket, also when opening the 36mm nut put the car in gear, & a vise grip onto the disc to lock it in against the caliper. be sure to open the 2 flaps/tab on the 36mm nut using a punch or old screw driver
 
Status: faclifting a 156
AO Silver Member
 
biffa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: United Kingdom
County: Lancashire
Posts: 3,199
Images: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lacken156 View Post
i used a bench grinder to taper the end of the socket, also when opening the 36mm nut put the car in gear, & a vise grip onto the disc to lock it in against the caliper. be sure to open the 2 flaps/tab on the 36mm nut using a punch or old screw driver
I insert a drift into the disk vent to prevent damage to the disk.
biffa is offline  
(Post Link) post #6 of 42 Old 05-03-12 Thread Starter
Status: Still trying to find that Noise...
AO Member
 
Chris_gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Essex
Posts: 922
Yeah i asked someone at work about this and they said putting it in gear could bugger the clutch, i just need to get the hub nut on/off safely, but i'm struggling to work out (without any pictures) the Circlip inside the 'jam jar lid' cover when you remove the 6 hex bolts holding the knuckle joint in.

i watched a generic video on YouTube of 'Eric the Car guy' taking the joint off with a hammer for the outer joint, but from what i have read, i do not have to do this as the inner joint has a Circlip you simply take off and pull shaft out, is this correct? any images would help

Many thanks
mallard likes this.
Chris_gta is offline  
Status: -
AO Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: France
County: Burgundy
Posts: 21
Maybe these help a bit. There from a 147.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMGP0707.jpg (56.8 KB, 306 views)
File Type: jpg IMGP0708.jpg (51.8 KB, 291 views)
File Type: jpg IMGP0710.jpg (50.4 KB, 273 views)
chopper chad is offline  
(Post Link) post #8 of 42 Old 05-03-12 Thread Starter
Status: Still trying to find that Noise...
AO Member
 
Chris_gta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Essex
Posts: 922
Hey chopper chad, thanks for the images!

how did you disconnect the joint? looks like that's the N/S gearbox side shaft? i need to do the O/S which doesnt have that rubber bit in the middle (Correct me on what this is called and what its for), so i guess i can take both boots off by only disconnecting the inner joint... also, how did you torque up/ angle torque the driveshaft hub bolt? how did you keep shaft locked?

Many thanks
Chris_gta is offline  
Status: -
AO Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: France
County: Burgundy
Posts: 21
Hi Chris
I prefer to remove the shafts and change gaiters on the bench. To disconnect cv joint remove gaiter and you will see 2 lugs of a circlip, with the shaft in a vice, prise them apart and tap cv joint at the same time. If you look at the second photo you can see the groove on the splined section where the circlip locates.

To lock the shaft I use small bar in disc vent which blocks against the caliper and tighten up as much as possible! See photo. Excessive but gives you a clue as to how tight they can be to un do.

Good luck.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMGP0704.jpg (37.7 KB, 175 views)
chopper chad is offline  
Status: cotanana taxis
AO Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: United Kingdom
County: West Yorkshire
Posts: 51
Images: 4

Member car:

GT JTDm

Make sure you buy a genuine boot ,,,,,the difference in quality is very noticable and the price is not so much noticeable plus once its on you can forget about it for a few 000s miles
escortvan is offline  
Status: It's the shizzle
AO Member
 
Oily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: United Kingdom
County: Lancashire
Posts: 124

Member car:

156 2.4 JTD

I did my outer CV boot by just removing the hub/drive shaft and taking the inner CV off.No need to undone the 36mm nut which as you've seen by the photos takes a lot to undone
Oily is offline  
Status: -
AO Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Derbyshire
Posts: 27

Member car:

156 t spark

Quote:
Originally Posted by oily View Post
i did my outer cv boot by just removing the hub/drive shaft and taking the inner cv off.no need to undone the 36mm nut which as you've seen by the photos takes a lot to undone
would you please explain in atep by step way how to do that, sounds easier, as i need to do mine?
VULCAN121 is offline  
Status: It's the shizzle
AO Member
 
Oily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: United Kingdom
County: Lancashire
Posts: 124

Member car:

156 2.4 JTD

Quote:
Originally Posted by VULCAN121 View Post
would you please explain in atep by step way how to do that, sounds easier, as i need to do mine?
Undo top wishbone joint,bottom ball joint,suspension fork bolt,remove brake caliper from hub,undo track rod end(steering) and undo the bolts that hold the inner cv joint,easy peesy
Oily is offline  
rxe
Status: Busso
AO Silver Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: United Kingdom
County: Berkshire
Posts: 2,950
Not sure why everyone is scared of the big nut. You tap out the staking (easy, punch and hammer), then use a bog standard Halfords 36mm impact socket and a long bar to take it off. If you have an impact gun, you don't need the long bar. Get a helper to stand on the brakes if you are hitting it with an impact gun! That is not the hard bit....

I started my outer with the shaft still on the car, and the circlip is an utter $^$%^^ to get off (and hold off) while you get the joint off. In the end, I unbolted the hex bolts and removed the shaft. Much easier on the bench.

I should have replaced both at the same time, as I now need to do the inner one!
rxe is online now  
Status: I need a Maser in my life.
AO Silver Member
 
GeoffCapes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: United Kingdom
County: Kent
Posts: 1,377
Images: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_gta View Post
Hi Lacken156, thanks for the reply.

Quick Question... i am going to replace the hub nut anyway, but do i have to grind down the 36mm socket to fit into the hub? it looks rather narrow, (where is best place to get thin walled 36mm socket?)

i know that i have to stake the hub nut so that the folded in 'staked' tab is against the direction of movement.

Will this be thin enough??

Halfords | Halfords Professional Impact Socket 36mm 1/2" Drive

These will but very expensive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-4146...item2ea98f4212


I need one myself.
GeoffCapes is offline  
rxe
Status: Busso
AO Silver Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: United Kingdom
County: Berkshire
Posts: 2,950
Quote:
Will this be thin enough??
That is exactly the one I used. Fits perfectly.
rxe is online now  
Status: -
AO Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Derbyshire
Posts: 27

Member car:

156 t spark

Thanks for that Oily, much clearer now ta, John
VULCAN121 is offline  
Status: -
AO Member
 
fishy-steve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: United Kingdom
County: Monmouthshire
Posts: 623
Quote:
Originally Posted by VULCAN121 View Post
Thanks for that Oily, much clearer now ta, John

Good luck.
Oily hasnt explained the hard bit. The circlip is a b****. Much easier to do on the bench as somebody has already mentioned.
fishy-steve is offline  
Status: -
AO Member
 
fishy-steve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: United Kingdom
County: Monmouthshire
Posts: 623
Quote:
Originally Posted by VULCAN121 View Post
Thanks for that Oily, much clearer now ta, John

Good luck.
Oily hasnt explained the hard bit. The circlip is a b****. Much easier to do on the bench as somebody has already mentioned.
fishy-steve is offline  
Status: It's the shizzle
AO Member
 
Oily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: United Kingdom
County: Lancashire
Posts: 124

Member car:

156 2.4 JTD

Quote:
Originally Posted by fishy-steve View Post
Good luck.
Oily hasnt explained the hard bit. The circlip is a b****. Much easier to do on the bench as somebody has already mentioned.
Ok,there's a circlip buried in grease on the end of the driveshaft but what's hard about taking a circlip off when the driveshaft/hub are removed
Think you need to read the thread again
Oily is offline  
Status: -
AO Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Derbyshire
Posts: 27

Member car:

156 t spark

BUT without taking the whole shaft out how do you get the outer cv boot over the middle "thingy" which is half way between inner cv and outer cv and hub in the picture shown earlier ?
VULCAN121 is offline  
rxe
Status: Busso
AO Silver Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: United Kingdom
County: Berkshire
Posts: 2,950
Quote:
what's hard about taking a circlip off when the driveshaft/hub are removed
Nothing at all when the shaft is in a vice on your bench. Pop them open with circlip pliers, whack the CV with a rubber mallet, job done. Doing that with the shaft still attached to the gearbox? Hmmm. Stick head in wheel arch. Hold torch with one hand to find the circlip. Hold circlip open with pliers in the other hand. With your third hand (don't you have three hands?), whack the CV joint with the mallet. When the circlip pliers fly off, swear. Repeat until your neck is sore.

I got my outer CV off with the shaft attached to the car, but I couldn't get the new one on. After 20 minutes of swearing, I undid the hex bolts, put it on the bench and had it together in about 2 minutes.
rxe is online now  
Status: It's the shizzle
AO Member
 
Oily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: United Kingdom
County: Lancashire
Posts: 124

Member car:

156 2.4 JTD

Quote:
Originally Posted by rxe View Post
Nothing at all when the shaft is in a vice on your bench. Pop them open with circlip pliers, whack the CV with a rubber mallet, job done.
No need for a hammer,inner cv just slides off the splines of the shaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by rxe View Post
Doing that with the shaft still attached to the gearbox? Hmmm. Stick head in wheel arch. Hold torch with one hand to find the circlip. Hold circlip open with pliers in the other hand. With your third hand (don't you have three hands?), whack the CV joint with the mallet. When the circlip pliers fly off, swear. Repeat until your neck is sore.
What on earth are you on about,have you actually read the whole thread
Here's a quick summary for you just in case your struggling:
Bloke wants to replace outer cv boot but struggling to remove the 36mm hub nut,I replied that you can remove the hub/drive shaft as one,remove inner cv then slide on new outer cv boot along the drive shaft.
Oily is offline  
Status: It's the shizzle
AO Member
 
Oily's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: United Kingdom
County: Lancashire
Posts: 124

Member car:

156 2.4 JTD

Quote:
Originally Posted by VULCAN121 View Post
BUT without taking the whole shaft out how do you get the outer cv boot over the middle "thingy" which is half way between inner cv and outer cv and hub in the picture shown earlier ?
You have remove the hub/drive shaft as one
Oily is offline  
Status: -
AO Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United Kingdom
County: Derbyshire
Posts: 27

Member car:

156 t spark

Done mine just finished, 36mm nut was no problem, got it off in one piece and thanks for all the advice,chaps, happy hub nutting
VULCAN121 is offline  
Reply

Go Back   Alfa Romeo Forum > Supported Alfa Romeo Models > Technical & Vehicle Assistance > Alfa 147, 156 & GT

Tags
boot , constant , replacement , velocity

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
Replace with
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome