CV (Constant Velocity) Boot replacement - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VULCAN121 View Post
Done mine just finished, 36mm nut was no problem, got it off in one piece and thanks for all the advice,chaps, happy hub nutting
Much easier.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
Ok,there's a circlip buried in grease on the end of the driveshaft but what's hard about taking a circlip off when the driveshaft/hub are removed
Think you need to read the thread again
Just re-read your post. Outer boot is easier your way. I changed all 4 boots.
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Quote:
What on earth are you on about,have you actually read the whole thread
Yes. There are two ways of doing it. Given that the 36 mm nut is pretty easy with the right bar, I was explaining that if you want to remove the outer CV (and mine certainly needed a thump), it is easier to do it with the whole lot off the car.

Three additional thoughts:

- Unless you have been very lucky and found it quickly, a torn CV boot will have let dirt and water in...and grease out. Unless the joint happens to be very new, I'd replace the joint anyway (given the faff of doing the job).

- I would not be inclined to disturb a good joint to put a new boot on the other end.

- I'm not sure if all of the dampers are removable on the passenger side. If it is not, then your technique would not work as it is not possible to pull the boot over the damper.
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Thank's for this great DIY!
I did my two outer Cv boots last summer using it.
But nowI need to change my left inner cv boot...
Should I remove the outer Cv boot to change the inner?
Thank's
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Depend what type of inner join you have. On the TS it is held on with 6 hex bolts. And once opened you can remove circlip and pull the joint off the splines. Then it's easy to fit new boot and replace.

BUT you cannot get to the joint properly with it on the car, so the driveshaft would still have to come out. I couldn't get the hub nut off a couple of weeks back so by splitting the three ball joints I removed the hub assemble, upright and driveshaft in one piece and swapped the inner joint which was totally shot.

Not sure about the design of the JTD shafts ..

cheers, Gary

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Thanks!
My driveshaft is the same than the one previously shown in this topic...
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Nobody using "stretchy boots?" They have worked for me for more than 30,000 miles and makes the job sooooo easy.
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Circlip plier grooves

Hello all,

New to the forum but already found it incredibly helpful, so thanks!

Just wanted to add a tip from when I was doing my outer CV today. As mentioned by many others previously the circlip is a huge PITA to get on and off even with circlip pliers, primarily it seems because the circlip doesn't have proper tabs with holes in (no idea why!). What I did to make the installation easier was to squeeze the new circlip in a vice to expose the inner edges of the tabs, then used a dremel and cutting disc to make a small groove in each one. This gives the circlip pliers something to engage with and stops them pinging off every time you move. Having spent an hour of pinging and swearing without the grooves, went together in 5 mins once I'd modded it.

Obviously this doesn't help with the initial disassembly but tbh I found that slightly easier, plus if you have to do it again the grooves will already be there!

Hope this makes sense - forgot to take a picture but if I can find the one I took off I will put together a diagram
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Hi All,
This is really helpful, I will be doing mine soon, I brought a whole repairing kits from eBay, from the parts ordered, I found two plastic ring gasket, I believed! (off side inner joints)
Could anyone can point out where these two ring should go? since I do not see the repairing procedure from above had even mentioned that we need to put in some kind of gasket or rings...

Last edited by edwardsuen; 20-09-16 at 04:42.
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I have only one idea, on the left side where the CV joint flange is attached to the rigid shaft by six bolts, I seem to find there is often a small amount of oil in there. Maybe it's an additional sealing precaution.
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"Stretchy" boots are your friend. You are making this hard work splitting the joint to do this.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addo View Post
I have only one idea, on the left side where the CV joint flange is attached to the rigid shaft by six bolts, I seem to find there is often a small amount of oil in there. Maybe it's an additional sealing precaution.
Thanks for the idea, will see if the place will fit that gasket with pictures when I am ready to take it apart... since my joints is already clicking, and is a big job, I will even replace the outer CV joints parts at once regardless of wear signs. The only decisions to make is, if I am confidence with the removal and installations, I will also change the near side boot also, honestly, I do not think is that easy...
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I have the shaft replace by a garage due to the alternator is shot, after that, I took the car for a track day in GIC race circuit (China), the inner joints bearing broke after the car had ran around 92 laps (divided by half hour session, each session runs 16 laps) in day 3. Since I had purchase the bearing kits off from eBay, wondering if the fault was an installations problems or the quality of the parts I had brought?

Here is the clips before I disassemble the drive shaft. The bearing will fail without any warnings, no funny sound before failing at all!!

Where do you guys buy from? and how is the bearing perform? What type of grease you apply? (The small pack that came from the kits?) Have you driven the car hard after the installations?

What I am now suspecting is, do my garage put only the small pack of grease or additional, I found there are quite a bit of grease inside when I uninstall it for inspections! one ball had came off from the assembly.

Final Questions, the six bolts is really hard to undo, but I just could not pull the whole shaft out after I removed the 36mm nuts, I saw a plate from the transmission with two screw on it, do I have to take that two screw off in order to pull the inner shaft out? or I just need to use brute force?

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OK, I assume you have removed the six nuts from each inner coupling and this face is now loose, and you have removed the 36mm nut completely. I've experimented with various methods for removal but currently favour taking off the caliper and ABS sensor, and cable tying them safely up in the wheelarch. Then loosen the top ball joint.

The splines in the hub will often stick, this is even a problem in dry countries. A heavy copper faced hammer is best for hitting the driveshaft end, or a 3 pound lump hammer with a thick piece of brass inbetween to cushion the blows. As you hit the shaft back through the hub, you'll need to detach the top ball joint completely and lean the hub carrier outwards.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addo View Post
OK, I assume you have removed the six nuts from each inner coupling and this face is now loose, and you have removed the 36mm nut completely. I've experimented with various methods for removal but currently favour taking off the caliper and ABS sensor, and cable tying them safely up in the wheelarch. Then loosen the top ball joint.

The splines in the hub will often stick, this is even a problem in dry countries. A heavy copper faced hammer is best for hitting the driveshaft end, or a 3 pound lump hammer with a thick piece of brass inbetween to cushion the blows. As you hit the shaft back through the hub, you'll need to detach the top ball joint completely and lean the hub carrier outwards.
So, the shaft that attach to the transmission had no clips or nuts to undo in order to be remove, instead of pulling the shaft out with slide hammer, I may try hammer the driveshaft end to try to get the shaft moving, this is great to know, so, I may use brute force to remove next time, this time I got one stubborn nut out of the six drilled and hammer off in order to release the driveshaft!
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Buy some Wurth "CU800" for your tool kit. It's the best copper powder grease on the market, I like to smear a little on the driveshaft splines and also the tapered sections of ball joints to improve the ease of dissembly next time.
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CV Joint Inner Bearing Replacement

Finally, I got my hands on the failure parts, first thing I would like to mention is to give my ebay seller a LIKE, what seller does is when I am ordering again for the Bearing Package, I leave a message to tell seller of what had happened to my last installations, I placed my orders to the same parts I had ordered before, than, when Fedex do the delivery, I notice seller is giving me something much nicer, or stronger to my impression and or believes.
For the failure parts, you may see one of the ball bearing is fallen off.
For the tools that is needed for the job is here. For the two plastic seal, it is for placing onto the bearing as shown here.
The procedures are as described earlier in this post, but more pictures could be seen here:
Off side inner CV Replacement Parts
Step one: Please the clamp, then the CV boot into the shaft
Step 2 : Clamp the CV boot to the shaft using the clamping tools, put back the inner retainer clips onto the driveshaft
Step 3 : Squeeze some special grease from the inner side of the bearing, Slide the bearing into the drive shaft
Step 4 : Put the outside retainer clips on
Step 5 : Install special grease into the bearing
Step 6 : Close the bearing with the inner bearing cover, put the washer and screw into the holes
Step 7 : Close the bearing cover tight with a pliers
Step 8 : Install the driveshaft back to the car, you can see that I forgot to place the washer on the drive shaft yet in this photo
Step 9 : tighten up all the nuts for the suspension units.
Done! Bravo!
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