Join Date: May 2008
Location: United Kingdom
How To: 147 Stiff gear change
I had the well known stiff gear change, with it being almost impossible to find 3rd/4th on the first try and the gear stick not centering. Everybody seems to think this'll take you around a half hour to do, and i'm sure it would if you knew what you were doing. As I had to find my way as I went and everything was stuck solid and the daylight failed, I had to spend a couple of hours at it yesterday and then finish up this morning.
I've seen quite a few posts on the subject, but nothing that's more than a bit vague. I'm no spanner monkey (though i'm getting there) so I'm sure it'll be old news for a lot of you, but I hope that other people get some use from the below!!
1. Open bonnet and find battery on right hand side.
2. Loosen nut holding on NEGATIVE - terminal connector on battery. Unattach lead.
3. On top of the battery is a little black box with some connectors in it. Open the lid of this. Inside are two screws holding the box to the battery on a little red plastic strap. Undo these. Finally, remove the POSITIVE + connection to the battery.
4. The battery strap holding the battery in is secured on the left side of the battery with a nut. You may need a socket extender to get there, as it's a little buried. Remove nut, take off strap.
5. Lift out the battery and put somewhere safe. Underneath is a little plastic tray, which you can just lift out also.
6. Unclip all the wiring on the back of back of the battery tray from the plastic clips.
7. The battery tray is held onto the right wing with four bolts. Undo these.
8. At the front of the car you'll find another black box, labelled fuses and relays. Undo the two clips holding the lid on, and lift off.
9. The fuse board hinges up - do so, and then undo all the block connectors. Underneath these are a little plastic dust cover (remove with a screwdriver), and underneath that is a nut. Undo.
10. With the fuse box unbolted, you are now free to lift it up. It's mounted onto the metal bracket (which in turn mounts onto the battery tray) with a slide fit onto the plastic at the back of the fuse box. You might need t ease it apart with a bit of WD40, but the two will come apart.
11. With the fuse box free, undo the two bolts on the metal bracket underneath it holding to the battery tray. Lift out the bracket.
12. Now you can finally remove the battery tray. There's a bolt that goes through underneath it into a hole at the top of the air box. Easiest way to remove is to drop the battery tray down and then pull it back, before pulling the whole lot up from the rear.
13. In the large space we've now made, toward the back of the engine bay, you'll see the gear linkage. Pop both of the cable end ball sockets off of the relevant balls with a screwdriver.
14. The cables are held onto the metal bracket (selector plate) with a retaining clip. Removing this is a bit of a pain in the posterior, but your best bit is to lever it up from below with a flat headed screwdriver underneath the top 'lip'.
15. With the retaining clip/plate removed, you can simply push the cables out through the back of the selector plate.
16. Undo the three nuts on top of the selector plate. I believe they are 13mm.
17. Lift out the entire selector assembly. There's a nut and washer on the end which needs removing - this for me was suck solid and needed several goes with WD40 and much blue air before it would budge.
18. Pull off the selector arm underneath the washer. The rest of the pin and ball on the end is in one piece, you will need to push it out through the other side. This piece being so stiff is what causes the selector issues in the first place, so it won't come easy. I tapped mine through with a hammer.
19. With the pin out, remove the two 'top hat' bushes from either side of the shaft. Again, mine were stuck solid so had to be broken and tapped out.
20. Go over the shaft and the inside of the sleeve with fine grade wet and dry paper. They should end up as smooth as a babies bottom.
21. Replace bushes with nice new ones, then copper grease the shaft and sleeve.
Reassembly is the reverse of removal!
My gear change is now back to being silky smooth, the sick pulls back to centre straight away and 3rd and 4th are easy to find. All in all a recommended job, but print out the above first!!