I'm really sorry CroBaron, I wasn't having a go at you personally just at forum advice in general on brakes. Not this forum in particular either because AO has a very high standard. Above all else there shouldn't be conflicting advice in the same thread.
From memory after reading the thread last night I'll give my two cents worth, still not necessarily gospel truth to any manual but borne out of 35 years work.
I've never seen front brakes that need winding back, only rears with an integral handbrake mechanism (known as colette calipers).
Early ABS systems could and were damaged by forcing fluid back through the system. This was definitely true of Vauxhalls and Fords. To prevent damage the flex pipe was clamped and the bleed nipple opened to release the fluid. Old habits die hard and you'll find a high proportion of professional mechanics do it as a matter of course, especially when working on systems with ESP etc. It can't do any harm and as long as the nipple is closed as the last drop of fluid is coming out, no air will be drawn in.
As kevjtd said the disc should not be rusty anywhere. The pads on both sides should have even contact. I they don't the brake is partially seizing in some way and the pedal feel will be affected.. Single piston front calipers that slide on pins are called Teves calipers and do need a bit of extra attention to keep them moving freely.
Resist the temptation to keep the master cylinder topped up. If it goes down suddenly you need to look at the system, either the brakes or the clutch if it shares the same reservoir (some do, some don't). As the pads wear the calipers take in fluid and the level drops. If you top up the reservoir and just push back the pistons it will overflow and make a right mess, very often going all over the aux drive belt etc. Another good reason to clamp the pipe and open the nipple.
Sorry for the long post, I just thought it might be an idea to explain some of the thinking behind the advice given out. Feel free to correct me