Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Zealand
I go along with the last two posts. I removed the actuator from my gearbox (JUST enough access to the 10mm hex plug on the side and 6mm very tight Allen pinchbolt within, which must come off before the actuator can lift off) with the gearbox mount removed and gearbox lowered).
Then I removed the gearbox with the subframe in the car. It was hard work due to the shape of the diff housing grinding against the subframe and the presence of the RH driveshaft along the back of the engine (if I did it again, I'd remove that intermediate driveshaft first - get both driveshafts right out of the way). I chewed up the seal for that driveshaft and had to replace it (a nuisance and not cheap).
The one saving grace is that the gearbox is not heavy (by gearbox standards) but the actuator does have to come off for clearance to the side of the engine bay. You do need Alfadiag to recalibrate after refitting (you don't need Alfadiag before removal - just undo the fluid pipes and tie them up by the headlight, wrapped in a clean rag to avoid contamination).
The biggest hurdle for me was when I refitted the actuator and managed to knock the linkage off the sensors, so when I tried to calibrate, I had P1741 and P1742 errors. I had to take the actuator off again and take the back plate off to refit the linkage (little cranks and rods). If I didn't have Alfadiag, it would have been a confusing disaster and I wouldn't have been going anywhere (it couldn't select any gears).
I had my flywheel machined and I was careful to grease the splines and release bearing mount with the special grease supplied with the clutch. I'm now rewarded with a clutch judder when the engine is cold. I suggest going easy on the clutch grease, if indeed you use any at all.
'00 GTV V6, '08 FIAT 500, shell and parts for a '71 FIAT 850 Coupe
Last edited by alexGS; 25-09-10 at 00:53.