Sorry for digging this up, but this post is just pure magic for me
. I've bought a circlip plier, learned how to remove the battery tray and equipped myself with both heady duty mountain bike grease and oil.
However, before taking this all apart, I'm left with 2 questions
Guys, I'd like to give this a go, but need a bit of guidance!!!
So, very simply, if I take out the battery and its tray, on my GT, will I see something that resembles this pic:
I take it the 'actuator arm' is the part with the red arrows pointing at it! ...now I don't want to take any more bits apart for fear of damage, so can I just spray wd40 through a little straw and try to get it around the area where the red circle is??
I've had the stiff / notchy / gets harder in traffic clutch problem for a while, and I'm left with the same question as in this first quote, I can see the clutch actuator arm, I can see the circrlip holding the slave cylinder in its housing, but once the salve cylinder is dealt with, how do I take the actuator arm off? There seems to be a circlip holding it somewhere, but where? under the arm? on top of it?
Below quotes are a "reminder" of the most important parts of the topic.
@ t3yls - Yes the arrows point to the arm. Just spraying some WD40 around this area won't do much harm but won't do much good either. You need to take the arm off clean up the bearing/bush and more importantly dribble a little oil down the side of the shaft (do not spray oil, it could contaminate the clutch) the arm is held on with a circlip and is keyed so it only goes on in one position.
Itís the lack of lube in the bottom bearing of the clutch release shaft that causes the fault. You can prove this by: In your faulty car simply remove the load from the slave cylinder piston lift the actuating arm up and down and wiggle it about, then put it all back together WITH OUT ADDING any lube, it will be Ok for a short period of time then get stiff again. If you have managed to lube the bottom bearing it will be fine; mine is still OK 8 months later with no further work.
It's been a while since I did mine but:
Remove the big circlip that holds the slave cylinder in its housing, then pull the slave back to clear the arm (I was replacing the slave as well). To make it easier to get the big circlip off the slave I pealed back the rubber boot, its simple to refit.
Now itís easy to get at the arm.
Remove circlip and lift off arm.
Gently prise out bush. Removing the bush will make it easier to get oil down the shaft. If the bush wonít come out, clean it as best you can and take longer applying the oil.
Dribble some oil down the shaft.
Grease and refit the bush
Refit the arm and circlip
Now refit the slave cylinder; align the piston with the arm then push and hold the slave cylinder in its housing while refitting the circlip and boot. Use circlip pliers.
Test out operation, it can take a while for the oil to reach the bottom bearing.
Refit battery box etc.
***I'm not sure if you can remove the arm without backing off the piston from the slave cylinder in some way.
Mechanic's usualy recomend clutch change as the easiest option because in that case they can check and exclude all possible problems.
But these are some common problem's with clutch systems on 156/147/GT which can be easily repaired without removing gearbox.
-> Possible problem
Clutch hard to press
-> usualy fork getting stuck in bushes (remove the top bush, spray down the fork a lot of WD, and after that a lot of oil http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/8648/1231m.jpg
Clutch soft when cold and getting harder in trafic
-> usualy problem with release bearing getting stuck on shaft, or fork getting stuck in bushes (remove the top bush, spray down the fork and in direction of shaft a lot of WD, and after that a lot of oil http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/3374/1232u.jpg
Loosing clutch pedal
-> usualy some air in hydraulic system, caused by leaking clutch slave or master cylinder wich is damaged because of long period with hard clutch pedal (change the defective clutch cylinder, and lubricate everything you can http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6238/1233p.jpg
Second question: If I want to kill this "clutch gets harder in traffic" problem, I guess I'm supposed to spray WD40 toward the release mechanism, but isn't there a massive risk of contamining the clutch plate? How do I make sure I don't contaminate it?
Last questions: I've had yet another clutch issue, which is that the clutch vibrates quite a lot when starting the car up. Can this be linked to the stiff clutch problem?