Enough was enough. I've been suffering with an MCSF problem since Christmas, after a run it would error and go into limp mode.
The code P2013 suggests a swirl valve problem. Thought long and hard about trying this myself, read a fair bit on the subject in the Vauxhall forums and decided... what the hell!
It was fairly straightforward, EGR off, fuel pump off, throttle body off and other bits and bobs. The cambelt does not have to come off, if you look at the photos you can see the pulley that drives the fuel pump can be bolted in place.
First problem is the shaft of the fuel pump, there is a slot in this in which sits a Woodruff key (a half-moon shaped key about the size of your thumbnail and 4mm thick), locking the pulley means the key is positioned at about 7 O'clock, while tapping the shaft out (using the old pulley bolt to protect the thread) it's dead easy for the Woodruff key to fall out of the slot never to be seen again. If you look at the casing photo there's a hole in the bottom conveniently located so the key can drop out of sight.
You might want to order a spare if you're thinking of tackling this, car was off the road for 2 days waiting for a replacement from eBay....I was incandescent. Use grease or similar to hold the key in place when replacing the fuel pump.
Next problem I had was that the manifold would not come off past the casing that the fuel pump mounts onto, doesn't seem to get a mention in the Vauxhall forums, there must be a subtle design difference.
Removal of the casing was a road I did not want to go down so ground the offending piece out of the way, purists.... feel free to shudder at this.
The fuel pump stud closest to the manifold has to come out, lock a couple of nuts onto the stud to remove.
Other than the above everything else went quite smoothly. It's tight for space back there so allow yourself a long day to do this.
I found that the old manifold actuator was not fully closing the swirl valves, at rest the valves should be closed, the actuator opens the valves as necessary and then should close under the actuator's spring tension, however the swirl valves were so choked they were sticking open.
On to the photos.
Photo showing the fuel pump pulley locked in place.
Photo showing the offending bit of casing ground down. Also note the hole centre left where the Woodruff key can easily be lost.
Old and new manifolds
Look at the state of the swirl valves
1 x Manifold = 55210201
1 x Gasket = 46816020
1 x Actuator = 55205127
1 x Manifold/Actuator link rod = 71740361
1 x Fuel Pump pulley bolt = 73500821
1 x Pump shaft Woodruff key 4mm(W) x 16mm(L) x 6.5mm (H)
Added 5th Apr 2012
There's been a fair bit of chatter regarding the inlet manifold in the last few days, thought I'd add a couple of other points.
Arm yourself with a good selection of hose/jubilee clips as the old ones are nigh on impossible to replace. I've yet to hear of anyone else having trouble getting the manifold off past the fuel pump casing, I looked long and hard and could not see any means of getting it off without grinding the obstruction down. I'd be very interested to know if anyone has found otherwise.
There was no way I was going to remove the casing as it would have meant the timing belt would have to come off and I believe (looking at elearn) the power steering pump.
It's been mentioned that the coolant needs draining, have to say I didn't do that and suffered no ill effects.
I'd also recommend fitting the restricted flow EGR gaskets, I've had these on for a couple of years now and it definitely reduces the build up of residue in the EGR, although not completely, I still have to clean it annually(about 20k miles). There is the option of blanking it completely, however this throws up a MCSF fault. The ECU can be programmed by any of the many tuning outfits to ignore this.
It's certainly worth doing one of the above as the inlet manifold can't withstand repeated removal of the EGR, you'll end up as I did stripping the threads in the manifold into which the EGR bolts mount. Looking at my old manfold I could see the possibilty of drilling a little deeper into the manifold, so, with a 90 degree chuck set about it and then tapped it out with the appropriate tap. I now have 4 stainless steel studs in the manifold onto which the EGR slides nicely. Admittedly I it means the power steering reservoir has to be moved out of the way, but it's only 2 bolts into the bulkhead and adds moments to the job
All the best