ECU Reset - It's A Miracle Cure !!!! - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Originally Posted by davealfa11 View Post
after so many start ups and no faults encountered ecu light extinguished
The light has gone out by itself.

I just noticed this yesterday afternoon. I was thinking about what I might've done different to normal and all I can tihnk of is that I left the ignition at MAR to use the stereo while I was cleaning the interior. Normally I just jump in and start the engine immediately.

So this is the only thing I could think of, that perhaps the ECU needed a chance to catch a breath and compose itself while the engine was off but ignition was at MAR.

Otherwise it can only be that it DID require a certain number of starts before it would go out. I don't get it though. It's a full three months since it first appeared.
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This idle problem people are having... I don't have an issue with that, however if I'm driving along and I put my foot on the clutch, and hold it. It drops revs to around 500 then sort of bounces up to about 2 thousand then drops down to 500 and back up over and over again. Now normaly I'd just do a throttle reset but I'm thinking maybe this could be an ECU thing as it is an Alfa :P

Any suggestions peeps?

Regards.
I have the same problem with my 1.8 TS. I have discovered that if the car is stopped in the top of a slope, and I stop breaking without putting any gear (so the car begins to run), the revs also do that.

I went to 3 different garages (one is an Alfa dealer) and they didn't find anything, they don't know what is happening...

I have thought about MAF problem, but they said that it was perfect.

Any ideas? I did the ECU reset (and throttle reset) and the problem persists.

My 156 was made in 1999 and it has 216.000 kms.

Alfa 147 GTA Blue Metallico+ Q2 + Novitec N5
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I have the same problem with my 1.8 TS. I have discovered that if the car is stopped in the top of a slope, and I stop breaking without putting any gear (so the car begins to run), the revs also do that.

I went to 3 different garages (one is an Alfa dealer) and they didn't find anything, they don't know what is happening...

I have thought about MAF problem, but they said that it was perfect.

Any ideas? I did the ECU reset (and throttle reset) and the problem persists.

My 156 was made in 1999 and it has 216.000 kms.
clean throttle butterfly and do reset ,
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clean throttle butterfly and do reset ,
My Alfa dealer cleaned it and did the reset, and the problem persists.
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My Alfa dealer cleaned it and did the reset, and the problem persists.
i think your tps is not reading the throttle plate position,did dealer check this
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i think your tps is not reading the throttle plate position,did dealer check this
I don't know if they checked throttle position sensor. They were looking for the problem for one week, and they didn't find anything. They were very surprised

So, I thought in the MAF sensor, but I don't want to change it without be sure... I have read people with similar problems that had changed it but the problem was there yet.
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This thread though is not a cure and is in no way an ECU reset. It most certainly should not be a sticky.
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... In addition, my climate insisted on only blowing hot air, no matter what temp I dialled in...
SteveD, I am just curious, have you checked your air con fuse?
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Thanks!!!!!
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Yeah - aircon fuse is fine, and blows freezing if LO is selcted. The problem is that it blows hot on 16.5 and above. So my climate choice is brass monkeys or roasted alive !!!!
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My GT 2.0L JTS has been idling a bit rough recently, and it felt like a few of my horses had flown south for the winter. In addition, my climate insisted on only blowing hot air, no matter what temp I dialled in.

Having trawled through various threads, the ECU reset fix was mentioned several times as a cure for both symptoms.

So, today being a quiet day in the Christmas break, I decided to attempt the ECU and throttle re-set procedure -which is as follows if you haven't seen in other threads :

1. Disconnect battery for 45 mins
2. Reconnect battery, and turn ignition to MAR for 90 secs
3. Turn off and leave 90 secs
4. Start engine WITHOUT pressing throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins (I repeat, do not touch the throttle whilst the car is idling)
5. Turn engine off and leave for 10 minutes
6. Start the car and go for a drive, using a number of styles (eg town, motorway, thrash etc)

So I did this, and my GT is reborn ! Faster, smoother, more torqier, even idle - it's bloody fantastic ! I can't believe how different the whole car feels.

It nearly cured the climate problem (well it blows a bit cooler) so if anyone has any tips on how to fix, let me know.

But the cherry on the icing on the cake was something I didn't expect, it seems to have cured my 'stepping' drivers window problem that I had given up on !!

Now the driver's window goes up and down as smoothly as the proverbial baby's bum.

So, if you're thinking of trying the ECU/Throttle reset and you have a hour or two on your hands this festive break, give it a go - it might work miracles for you to !

Does this work for the 156 1.8 as well
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Does this work for the 156 1.8 as well
oh yes, but only if its not right in the 1st place
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Would this work on a 2.5 v6 1998
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Would this work on a 2.5 v6 1998
might do but check if its not maf first
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does this work for all engine types/ age of car??
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This idle problem people are having... I don't have an issue with that, however if I'm driving along and I put my foot on the clutch, and hold it. It drops revs to around 500 then sort of bounces up to about 2 thousand then drops down to 500 and back up over and over again. Now normaly I'd just do a throttle reset but I'm thinking maybe this could be an ECU thing as it is an Alfa :P

Any suggestions peeps?

Regards.
can also be lambda problems as well not necessarily your problem but found this info
Often blamed on the temperature sensor or the idle speed control valve, the engine idle speed may drop and rise periodically, or the engine may 'race' - ie. hold high revs when it should be stable. Both can be caused by lambda failure.

The ECU will be confused by inaccurate information supplied by the sensor - as a result it will not be able to set the fuelling accurately. Some ECU's may cycle the engine speed up and down in an attempt to clear a problem.

We see a lot of unnecessarily replaced idle control valves and throttle bodies - if idle is fluctuating, the valve is only acting upon information supplied by the ECU, which may be inaccurate due to sensor failure. If the idle speed is changing, then the ECU is at least capable of controlling the idle speed, and the valve is obviously operating okay.
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so with my 2.5 v6, the throttle reset should get a few horsies back after 10 years? number 3 to the end right? mar for 90, off for 90, start car with no accelerator and leave for 10mins? is MAR the first key position or the second before ignition?
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Warning - daft question time now lads what is ecu the abbreviation for and is it anything to do with the little spark plugy looking warning light on the dash ? Mine keeps coming on intermittently and sometimes it goes into limp mode and sometimes it doesn't I've had it into the garage and they tell me its an intermittent fault ermmmmm NO KIDDING ! i had noticed that all by myself. Is this ecu reset likely to sort it out do you reckon - Thanks
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Warning - daft question time now lads what is ecu the abbreviation for and is it anything to do with the little spark plugy looking warning light on the dash ? Mine keeps coming on intermittently and sometimes it goes into limp mode and sometimes it doesn't I've had it into the garage and they tell me its an intermittent fault ermmmmm NO KIDDING ! i had noticed that all by myself. Is this ecu reset likely to sort it out do you reckon - Thanks
ECU = Electronic Control Unit.

The little spark plug graphic is probably the fuel injectors warning lamp. I was looking for a graphic illustrating this online but I can't find it. It usually looks like a nozzle, pointing downwards at a 45 degree angle with 3 broken dotted lines emerging from it in a spray pattern.
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DOH ! of course it does - I knew that

Just been and had a look and the light I am on about is just by the number 8 on the rev counter and it looks nothing like a spark plug (now I really look at it) its more like an engine shape thing. How hard can it be to describe a thing you look at every day - it comes on when you start the car up!

Ive not seen the one you are talking about (and dont want to by the sound of it )

Its really odd because it doesn't come on all the time just sometimes and as I said it doesn't always go into limp mode (wont rev above 3 ) just occasionally. The car is a bit sluggish in general (but it is nearly 10 years old) I was just wondering if the ecu reset/throttle reset would sort it out ?

I am begining to get a bit cheesed with it now
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DOH ! of course it does - I knew that

Just been and had a look and the light I am on about is just by the number 8 on the rev counter and it looks nothing like a spark plug (now I really look at it) its more like an engine shape thing. How hard can it be to describe a thing you look at every day - it comes on when you start the car up!

Ive not seen the one you are talking about (and dont want to by the sound of it )

Its really odd because it doesn't come on all the time just sometimes and as I said it doesn't always go into limp mode (wont rev above 3 ) just occasionally. The car is a bit sluggish in general (but it is nearly 10 years old) I was just wondering if the ecu reset/throttle reset would sort it out ?

I am begining to get a bit cheesed with it now
The light you describe is the EOBD (European On-Board Diagnostics) warning lamp. If it's on constant, it means the ECU detected an error in the start up sequence or one of any number of other errors as discussed elsewhere in this thread. It's raison d'etre is mainly as an emissions warning system to draw attention to anything causing the engine to run badly leading to increased emissions. If it's a serious emissions issue it can cause damage to catalytic convertor. I think it will also come on if the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) is causing problems.

If the light is flashing it's a more serious problem and the car needs immediate attention. If it is flashing while driving, slowing down and driving more gently can result in the lamp returning to a constant glow instead. I read somewhere that the switching off the engine and restarting after 2 mins can help.

Mine illuminated after the battery was changed and I reckon the dying battery had resulted in an ignition sequence error. I came here seeking clarification. Within days of my asking about it, the light mysteriously extinguished after about 3 months of it showing. Apparently if the error does not recur within 90 start ups it resets and the light goes out. That probably equates to the specified 90 start ups.

For my part, I had no luck with the ECU reset described further above.
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ECU reset - wow!

I finally got around to resetting the learned parameters on my ECU today - using AlfaDiag, not fannying around with disconnecting the battery etc

What a difference - lots more torque, much better revving through the range (it previously bogged down between 4000 and 5000) and, for some reason, gear changes are a lot smoother

Should have probably done it when I changed the MAF, errr...a year or more ago. Better late than never though!
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This thread though is not a cure and is in no way an ECU reset. It most certainly should not be a sticky.

Smaky, is the only true way then with Examiner, Alfadiag, Unidiag et al ?
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Smaky, is the only true way then with Examiner, Alfadiag, Unidiag et al ?
That's what he told me
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