ECU Reset - It's A Miracle Cure !!!! - Page 18 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Is this ok to do with a performance chip on?
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well I done it anyways but here isn't any difference for me in performance. always kept my car well serviced and cleaned maf & mas not to long ago.
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Which post gives the ECU reset procedure, which# post?
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Found it as the first post, were there any important suggestions later?
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Originally Posted by Berridale View Post
Found it as the first post, were there any important suggestions later?
:c heese:

OMG! This thread keeps going and going, doesn't it? :-)

I'm guessing that to the majority of us, (with severe issues) this fix didn't solve it, did it? :-)
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best way is to download multiecuscan and buy a KKL cable.... then you can see what errors are stored and in most cases can be reset...
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Thinking about doing this at the weekend, does it cause any issues with the Selespeed at all?
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well i done this a week ago. since then my drivers window has stopped working, now my boot wont open either. dont know if these are issues because of the reset or they are just knackered. typical alfas, fix one thing another thing breaks.
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I did it today and it seems to work! Unless it's the placebo affect but it did seem to make a difference
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Hi Y'all,

I've only had my 156 2litre JTS a few weeks, and it's ALWAYS been frosty, raining or heavy traffic when I've been out in it - I bought it hoping for an efficient commuter, as I have a couple of other toys for h00ning around in at the weekend. Anyway, in starting to read about what I've bought, I was pretty scared that on the times I actually DID get the throttle down, the motor seemed to pull from low to medium revs, but just hold on a plateau. Ohh Dear, have I got one of these d00med, carboned-up JTS engines with an inlet manifold full of s00t, valves caked in carbon, a worn cam and a 20 minute lifespan ahead of it? Will this all end with both a bang, and a whimper? Such things were preying on my mind last night, when the Motor Control System Failure! warning came up on the screen (I think I screamed, and ruined my trousers) - but NOTHING else came with the message. No power-loss or wayward idle, just the message. I'm told it COULD be the battery, and that's where to start...

And then I saw a thread for resetting the Service Interval Expired message, and took care of that.

And then I saw this thread, and followed the procedure. Whilst giving the car the final 10 minute rest, I looked down at the footwell, and saw that TWO sets of mats, AND a rubber one on top, had bunched up under the throttle pedal. Ohh, there's a whole dozen eggs on my face right now! I put all of them in the boot, turned the key and then went for a drive, taking in full-throttle accellerations up long motorway slip-roads. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I guess I can't be sure EXACTLY how much of this is due to the reset procedure, and my driving so far has been concerned more with getting ever-better economy to display on screen, but OMG!! I would say that I'm pretty damn sure I'm NOT missing out on many of the ponies I should have under the h00d!
Thanks for the exhaustive detail on these posts, it's great when Newbies like me benefit from your know-how, and you are careful enough to put in ALL the detail we need to get things sorted. And whilst I do still want this 156 to be an economical driver for workdays, I now know that it sure can H4UL-4$$ if I need it to. ;-)
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Which cable to buy please?

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Originally Posted by rarebear View Post
best way is to download multiecuscan and buy a KKL cable.... then you can see what errors are stored and in most cases can be reset...
Hi, I see a number of different cables on eBay, and in some cases, it seems that you would need a given Adaptor to plug your fault-code reader into. Could you please spell it out for me, exactly what is needed to check the OBD on a 2002 156 JTS? Many thanks.
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Performed this today while fitting a new battery. Although I hadn't been having any trouble with my car (touch wood!), the throttle response seems to have improved and the engine feels a bit smoother, although I don't know if I only think this because it is what I expected it to do.

Will update in a few weeks whether there is any lasting changes from the reset.
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the right diagnostic cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tee-Ess-boy View Post
Hi, I see a number of different cables on eBay, and in some cases, it seems that you would need a given Adaptor to plug your fault-code reader into. Could you please spell it out for me, exactly what is needed to check the OBD on a 2002 156 JTS? Many thanks.
PM me and have a look at Youtube rarebear14 for a demo on my 156 sele
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One thing I have noticed after doing the reset; the windows go up and down faster than they did previously.
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Coincidence, or not?

I see a report from someone that their formerly-slow windows are now moving quicker, after the ECU-reset - I've noticed something which I can't account for. Two days after buying the car, I pulled the drivers' door shut, but it didn't click home. I tried it a couple more times, before getting out to see that the key-slotted button in my 156's chrome outer-handle hadn't sprung back out after it was opened. I inserted the key, and dragged it back out. Then I got release-oil and worked it around the button, and the same on the passenger side, thumbing the button over and over to try to free it up. Well, despite this lube-job, this minor problem persisted - most times the button STILL wouldn't come out after I press it in to open the door - yet since doing the ECU-reset, both release-buttons are behaving flawlessly. Surely this can't be related?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tee-Ess-boy View Post
I see a report from someone that their formerly-slow windows are now moving quicker, after the ECU-reset - I've noticed something which I can't account for. Two days after buying the car, I pulled the drivers' door shut, but it didn't click home. I tried it a couple more times, before getting out to see that the key-slotted button in my 156's chrome outer-handle hadn't sprung back out after it was opened. I inserted the key, and dragged it back out. Then I got release-oil and worked it around the button, and the same on the passenger side, thumbing the button over and over to try to free it up. Well, despite this lube-job, this minor problem persisted - most times the button STILL wouldn't come out after I press it in to open the door - yet since doing the ECU-reset, both release-buttons are behaving flawlessly. Surely this can't be related?
Coincidence I think! I had the same problem on my car with the buttons sticking in, and like you, I liberally lubed around the area. In the end I found that actually squirting lube into the key hole cured the problem most effectively.
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An important note about sticking locks - DON'T use WD40 and think you've solved the problem. It will wash out any remaining lubricant which is in there then evaporate leaving your bits unprotected. I use Vaseline - quiet at the back, there - because it's clean and sticky. I force it into the mechanism while plunging a coated key into the barrel. It's a messy job but once cleaned up, lasts for ages and gives great satisfaction . . . . sorry, couldn't resist it . . .
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Well thanks for that Sir, I'll get right on that at the weekend. Vaseline it shall be. Like I said, the WD-40 didn't really seem to help anyhow - but they are both behaving flawlessly since the shut-down.
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My 1.8ts is running better and with more midrange after this re-set. Happy,happy, joy joy!
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ECU Reset - It's A Miracle Cure !!!!
I know its an old thread...... but YES Fcuk me it worked........... My issue was not performance but WINDOWS (both sides & wing mirrors) passenger down driver up nothing moving............. did the Miracle cure.... and all sorted
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob gt View Post
ECU Reset - It's A Miracle Cure !!!!
I know its an old thread...... but YES Fcuk me it worked........... My issue was not performance but WINDOWS (both sides & wing mirrors) passenger down driver up nothing moving............. did the Miracle cure.... and all sorted
That's because it resets the bodycomputer, which controls all your devices....All you need to do for that is disconnect the battery for half an hour or so...
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Will it cure auto wipers that seem to be working when they feel like it, they have always have been OK up to now.
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Will it cure auto wipers that seem to be working when they feel like it, they have always have been OK up to now.
No idea. I'd start by cleaning the outside glass area in front of the sensor, using a good glass polish.
Re. the BC reset (battery disconnect), you can of course always try that as it's easy to do, and won't do any harm...
Edit: I see you have a 156 ? That doesn't have a bodycomputer, so I wouldn't bother with the battery disconnect. You'll also need your radio codes if you have the standard Alfa radio.....
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Think my GT has been disconnected since December. Do you reckon that is long enough?
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