ECU Reset - It's A Miracle Cure !!!! - Page 17 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Apologies for resurrecting this old thread, but I'm just wondering whether it's possible to combine the ECU Reset & Climate reset at the same time? As far as I can see, after reconnecting the battery, if you wait 5 mins before turning the key to MAR, it will reset the Climate as well - or does the ECU reset require that the key is turned to MAR immediately after the battery is reconnected?

I have an engine that seems sluggish and a Climate that always blows heat; hence my reason for asking! I did try the Climate reset last night, but didn't hear any sound from flaps moving after the battery was reconnected, and the Climate still always blows heat - perhaps my actual unit is knackered
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Help Works a treat!

I just followed the instructions on this thread form an ECU reset! Ad now my 159 1.9 jtdm is running as strong as. It used to a year ago.

I was hoping the blue and me and my odometer would sort themselves out, although the odometer is still flashing and I get 'English Lang Unavailable' for the B&M, my car is kicking 150bhp again and much more responsive in general ref braking, gear shifts etc. An unexpected bonus is that my rear parking sensors are working properly again. before they would just bleep non stop for 5 secs before packing up every time I put the car into reverse.

my alfa mechanic advised I go see the main dealers for diagnostics on the odometer flashing issue, he couldn't identify the problem. It keeps flashing after I had to jump start it, now the ECU reset has done wonders but alas the odometer still flashes
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Volkswagen bests Alfa Every Time!

Surely a bannable offence???!?
Going to do mine tomorrow at work after decatting and 2.0 camming...should be fun...
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Surely a bannable offence???!?
Going to do mine tomorrow at work after decatting and 2.0 camming...should be fun...
Even if he had a ban it would probably be expired after more that two years!
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heh, probably....

Is the 10 minute wait time critical or can i do this during the day then leave it a couple of hours and drive home from work....?
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Anyone?
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Egon, I'm doing an ECU reset today. maybe I'll answer that to you... but my guess is not. you should be able to wait 10 min or more. The idle part should be critical, a good idle is critical. The rest I think it has to do with emissions and performance, and has to do with various minor faults (failing sensors, air/vacuum leaks, bad sparks...) that the car can and will try to workaround changing some fuel misture parameters... and that's a continuous learning. but this is just 50% guess did the idle and TRA reset with Multiecuscan, and a lot of parameters were reset to zero or one. Idle went berserk, cause the values learned by the ecu to compensate all the faults were lost. Now, trying to do this procedure this morning...
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i done this as my engine management light was on, got readings for maf, egr and throttle sensor faults, done the procedure as above but after 15 mins running forgot to turn off and leave for 10 mins before a drive, instead i drove after 15 mins but did the same job, no faults and light off, car is flying, cant believe it cured the faults for me, have already ordered a new maf so will prob stick it in anyway(or maybe not, just wait and see if i get any more problems from this) really chuffed, thanks for the heads up on this procedure
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i done this as my engine management light was on, got readings for maf, egr and throttle sensor faults, done the procedure as above but after 15 mins running forgot to turn off and leave for 10 mins before a drive, instead i drove after 15 mins but did the same job, no faults and light off, car is flying, cant believe it cured the faults for me, have already ordered a new maf so will prob stick it in anyway(or maybe not, just wait and see if i get any more problems from this) really chuffed, thanks for the heads up on this procedure
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by the way i drive a 2000 156 jtd 10valve
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From what people say it doesn't cure anything, it just masks the faults as everything goes back to stock values and as you drive it will go back to the way it was.

Please report back after a while and let us know how its going....I think thats the key!
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From what people say it doesn't cure anything, it just masks the faults as everything goes back to stock values and as you drive it will go back to the way it was.

Please report back after a while and let us know how its going....I think thats the key!
It's a self adapting system, trying to compensate for wear and tear in the components, petrol quality etc. Sometimes it drifts too far from the nominal values, and just compensates the wrong way and can't correct anymore.
Reset sets everything nominal again, so it can correct in the right way .....
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i will keep yous posted on how it goes to see if it cures it for good(heres hoping)
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It's a self adapting system, trying to compensate for wear and tear in the components, petrol quality etc. Sometimes it drifts too far from the nominal values, and just compensates the wrong way and can't correct anymore.
Reset sets everything nominal again, so it can correct in the right way .....
Ahh thanks for the correction!

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i will keep yous posted on how it goes to see if it cures it for good(heres hoping)
Please do !
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My battery seems to be flat and not starting the car, im looking to do this reset tomorrow but the question is...

Should i just disconnect and do the whole ECU rest

or

Get a jump start run the car for a few mins, Then do the reset ??
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ECU Reset - It's a miracle!!!

I had been experiencing sluggish performance in my August 2002 manufactured 156 JTS 2.0 litre for several weeks and was recieiving an ABS/VDC warning AND an MSCF error on the display.

I suspected the spark plugs were not quite right as acceleration was poor and idle sounded like someone with emphysema.

Anyways, replaced the plugs, disconnected all the sensors in the engine bay and cleaned connections, disconnected hoses and cleaned any deposits found, gave everything the once over and started the car. Idle much better and a bit more torque and power at lower revs.

I had a spare 2 hours so performed the ECU and throttle body reset procedure as seen on this thread and am now struggling to get the smile off my face.

My JTS is a 4 cylinder manual, factory lowered, Koni schocks, stage 1 ecu remap, K&N cone and GTA mags.

Since performing the reset the engine note is throatier, acceleration is smooth and powerful across all gears (previously 2nd and 4th were sluggish) and overall the car is more responsive.

I followed the ECU reset instructions to the letter and am very very happy with the outcome.

This was my first time doing anything under the hood and i had more than a little trepidation before I began.

I did get an MSCF error when I first started the car after the ECU reset procedure but it cleared when I next started her up.

This has done wonders for the car and my enjoyment levels have returned to those experienced when I first purchased the car 11 years ago.

Good luck to all!
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Can I do ecu reset if I dont have a working fob?? (immobiliser is off and car simply gets locked by fob blade without batery as it didnt work after dropping). If I rrmove battery will immobiliser not giing to switch on??
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Thanks Guys, this thing just WORKS, and works very very well. My car is reborn. I love it even more now Will do this after every change in/around the engine...

Thank you!!
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ECU reset

Glad to hear it Beedee, what is the weather like in your country and does it have an adverse affect on the car and components?



In Melbourne, Australia we have 4 seasons in 1 day. I am not joking!

I had 10 years driving my JTS without experiencing anything more than 2 sensor failures. One of them being the crankshaft sensor which happened right on the 10 year mark.

Hopefully I can get a couple more years out of the car before doing something stupid like buying a 2004 GTA!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfamo View Post
.....
my alfa mechanic advised I go see the main dealers for diagnostics on the odometer flashing issue, he couldn't identify the problem. It keeps flashing after I had to jump start it, now the ECU reset has done wonders but alas the odometer still flashes
Only way to resolve the flashing odometer issue, which signifies a CAN bus error, is to do a "Proxy Alignment", either using the Alfa Examiner or own cable + diagnostic software. (assuming of course there isn't any "real" problem with a CAN bus device)

Is a simple procedure that should take no more then 10 minutes...
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Fwiw... Just done the reset on my 2.0 TC 97 Ph1 Spider & it really did make a lot of difference, much quicker & smoother. I have had the car for a few months & done a bit of tlc, new air intake where it had cracked, new plugs, cambelt etc.... Thought it should of been quicker than it was.... Now it is :-)
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Gonna try this on my jtd 1.9 cheers
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there is nothing wrong with how my car performs. well i think there isnt. but im interested in doing this to my gt 1.9 jtdm just to see if it makes the car feel any better.
would it be ok to do or should i just leave it?
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Just done it to mine tonight, Well worth doing feels more responsive 6th gear foot down and the power is there immediately! It's cured my glow plug light that kept flashing and its smoother in gear changes,

Make sure you have your radio code though
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there is nothing wrong with how my car performs. well i think there isnt. but im interested in doing this to my gt 1.9 jtdm just to see if it makes the car feel any better.
would it be ok to do or should i just leave it?
My cars performance was fine this has just made it smoother and more responsive for me, Give it a try can't see it harming anything.
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