ECU Reset - It's A Miracle Cure !!!! - Page 14 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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I had to register just to say that it worked on my 04 GT JTD. Idle is a LOT smoother and I am finding it a lot more responsive through through the gears. The on board computer states I'm getting a further 4 mpg as well (although we all know that that means nothing!)

Thanks
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just used this on my 156 Mjet 16v... it wasnt boosting correctly, well not controlling the boost below 2500rpm, but no fault codes in the ecu... anyway ecu reset and im back to lots of wwoossshy boost and no black smoke
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So, today being a quiet day in the Christmas break, I decided to attempt the ECU and throttle re-set procedure -which is as follows if you haven't seen in other threads :

1. Disconnect battery for 45 mins
2. Reconnect battery, and turn ignition to MAR for 90 secs
3. Turn off and leave 90 secs
4. Start engine WITHOUT pressing throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins (I repeat, do not touch the throttle whilst the car is idling)
5. Turn engine off and leave for 10 minutes
6. Start the car and go for a drive, using a number of styles (eg town, motorway, thrash etc)


Hi Guys,

we have used your procedure, this evening, to reset the ECU of an Alfa GT JTS with Motor Control System Failure and the car is really reborn.
Thanks a lot
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Guys, sorry to bring up this old thread, but I've got a 1.6ltr 156 which was in an accident. Air bags did not deploy, but the car was sitting for repairs for a long time.

now, the airbag lights are on, as well as the ABS warning light.

Will this cure these lights as well ?
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Originally Posted by Supercharged16v View Post
Guys, sorry to bring up this old thread, but I've got a 1.6ltr 156 which was in an accident. Air bags did not deploy, but the car was sitting for repairs for a long time.

now, the airbag lights are on, as well as the ABS warning light.

Will this cure these lights as well ?
Try it-it's free
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I know other things that are free as well, but I wouldnt try them
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It worked for me, although the light came back on after two days. The poor connection that causes the air bag light fault is almost always caused by the yellow multiple connecter under the drivers seat (on right hand drive cars anyway) . I sprayed some connection cleaner into the block before the ECU reset and it worked for a while so I plan to replace the connector and do a reset again.
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When you say "MAR" on the key, do you mean that the ignition is on and all the dash is lit up but engine not running?
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Thats what I thought.

I've got the car today with me , so I'll give it a shot when I go home

Will post the results tomorrow
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I'm back !

I've tried it !!

It actually says "MAR" on the ignition !!! ( which is short for "Don't start it till MARch )

And Guess what ???

Absolutely NONE of the lamps went off !

There must be something wrong with the sensors or something. Hardware problem. I cant even engage the ASR. its permanently off and the ABS light is on - even though I've tried the ABS and they work !
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President (ex??)
you didnt mention the accident! I could give you my engine
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you can try a reset airbag error with AD or FES, if it returns there is a problem.......
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President (ex??)
you didnt mention the accident! I could give you my engine
Yes Iakove, I'm Mr. Secretary now

This is actually Mario's car. But even so, its a 1.6 T-Spark. Yours is a 2.0 Ltr.

I would LOVE to have your engine in my other 156 though. It drives and feels like a donkey !
I would bring it back to Cyprus and store it somewhere. I'm sure it will be needed at some point


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Originally Posted by rarebear View Post
you can try a reset airbag error with AD or FES, if it returns there is a problem.......
There clearly is a problem. Took it to a friend who has an Alfa Diagnostic smartbox, we reseted it from there and it came right up again.
Tried the ABS and they dont work, so I'm supposing if the ASR is working via the ABS, thats how the second fault is chain created.
There must be a faulty ABS sensor somewhere. The Diagnostic didnt give me a specific sensor error, it just gave me a coded sensor message.
I think it was something like : 52.16
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My MAF was bust so I fitted a new sensor 2 weeks ago. Afterwards on start up (when cold) the engine was missing and back firing through the intake manifold when driving off, if I stopped turned the engine off and restarted it would run fine again.

Used Jeff Porter's ecu reset technique:
Turn ignition to MAR for 90seconds
Turn ignition off for 90 seconds
Start engine and idle for 15 mins (don't touch throttle)
Take car for 15 minute drive.

After doing this my car starts and runs a lot smoother.

Hope this helps
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Well, in my case, I found that an ABS sensor was dead, so this technique might had been working on the 156 but it would appear again immidiately because of the faulty sensor.
Will be changing the sensor today. The warning lights might even go off by themselves ?
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Well, in my case, I found that an ABS sensor was dead, so this technique might had been working on the 156 but it would appear again immidiately because of the faulty sensor.
Will be changing the sensor today. The warning lights might even go off by themselves ?
Secretary (ex President),
Clean the sensor before changing it. I had the same problem after a snow fall. (by the way have you been in Troodos with this car?)
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I measured all sensors with a digital multimeter.

three sensors measure 34.5 to 39 Kilo Ohms, and the other one is dead !
Its not the cable, I chopped off the sensor from the shortest possible lenght and it still measures nothing. It has lost continuity.

I'm sure its the sensor in this case
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Any results?
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Yes ! The lights are still on and the ABS isnt working !

All of the sensors now measure ok, but it still doesnt work.
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Might give this a try.
Went back to the dealer and they said they can't cure it !!!!!!!
That's just barefaced bullsh/t. Insist they escalate it**. Mention the words "trading standards" prominently.

**Franchised dealers, of every marque I've come across - though I have no idea about AR - operate a regime of venal stupidity. At the bottom are the grunt minimally-trained techs (and apprentices), doing grunt routine stuff, always trying to get on bonus by working above target efficiency because their wage is typically a mere 7-10/hr of the vast hourly rate you pay. EG a 2hr job on the tariff (what you pay) that takes 1.5hr = 133% efficiency. Around 130% is the usual sort of target management demands. If the tech's manage to put through more than that (eg more than 130% of 40hr week, 52hrs) they get paid a better rate for any further hours. And the managers get a bonus too.

All of which encourages mistakes, but means that the last thing management wants is customer cars coming back with unchargeable faults and screwing up their targets for which they get paid bonus.

There will be a few techs who have more training, more brain cells, more experience. Among them will be guys with diagnostic skills. They're better paid, so management especially doesn't like to squander them on return repairs when they could be earning, even though they're the best choice for finding what's gone wrong.

In fact there is a hierarchy of expertise that allows dealers to call in expert techs from outside the branch, and even from the factory where a major production fault is suspected.

So when a dealer says they "can't" find out what the trouble is, what they mean is "we certainly can figure out what one of our techs has done to your car, but we aren't going to because we have your money already and plan on keeping our bonuses. So go away."

Your car is probably running like crap because Darren, age 19, tried to do a cambelt change at Warp 4 speed and boogered the timing. Or he forgot to do something up because the workshop manager kept shouting at him about why he hadn't finished a different car on another jobcard that was due to be collected at 3pm and why is it still taking up a bay awaiting parts even though the service advisor should never have promised that in the first place without checking parts stock first... Or he left a latex glove in the inlet... Or forgot to plug in the EGR. Or something.

I hate franchised dealers; if there is a good one anywhere, it is despite all the above - but I've never found one. You won't find the same clusterf$cked beancounter-spreadsheet-driven corporate idiocy at good small family run and independent garages, they depend on competence, transparency and customer loyalty. And they cost less. There are plenty of bad ones, but they're easier to spot and avoid by reputation. With franchises, the apparatus of customer care, PR and chrome plated window dressing bestows a sort of awe. They seem nearer to God. They wouldn't, couldn't possibly not live up to their authority and charge that much, surely? That is just what they want you to think.
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I have a question.

My GTA climate control used to read in Fahrenheit. I had it changed to Centigrade. Now I am thinking of doing an ECU reset, just for the hell of it.

Will it return my climate control to Fahrenheit?
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I have a question.

My GTA climate control used to read in Fahrenheit. I had it changed to Centigrade. Now I am thinking of doing an ECU reset, just for the hell of it.

Will it return my climate control to Fahrenheit?
No idea mate...
Try your owners manual, it should have a way of doing this in there somewhere
 
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I have a question.

My GTA climate control used to read in Fahrenheit. I had it changed to Centigrade. Now I am thinking of doing an ECU reset, just for the hell of it.

Will it return my climate control to Fahrenheit?
How did you change to centigrade mate ? I want to do the same !
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Originally Posted by Rockstar View Post
My MAF was bust so I fitted a new sensor 2 weeks ago. Afterwards on start up (when cold) the engine was missing and back firing through the intake manifold when driving off, if I stopped turned the engine off and restarted it would run fine again.

Used Jeff Porter's ecu reset technique:
Turn ignition to MAR for 90seconds
Turn ignition off for 90 seconds
Start engine and idle for 15 mins (don't touch throttle)
Take car for 15 minute drive.

After doing this my car starts and runs a lot smoother.

Hope this helps
Do you not have to disconnect battery with this method?
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That is the fly by wire throttle reset only...
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