Not too long at all - actually, I was thinking of posting something much longer about my 156 bought unseen and a 16-hour journey (including a ferry trip) to get it home in the weekend...
It is amazing what other people will conveniently ignore, isn't it... however, as Jeremy says, no two Alfa Romeos ever have the same problems at the same time... mine has knocking suspension and a fuel gauge that always reads 'full'!
Obviously you now need a new condensor and I'm guessing you'll get a panel shop to pull the front crossmember straight? Personally, that's beyond my abilities - last time I tried to pull something straight, I damaged it even more
I'm sure you will get it sorted and it might be a good time to buy a polisher (like a large angle grinder, sheepskin pad) if you don't already have one. Don't be misled by small or two-handled cheap plastic fantastic jobbies that merely vibrate a foam pad in a random orbit - those are only any good for applying waxes and don't have the guts to actually cut and polish the clearcoat. Most polishers seem to be designed to keep Joe Public out of trouble - the truly powerful machines will buff through the paint on a panel edge in an instant, so must be used carefully (I do my edges by hand, and I cover black plastic with masking tape).
Of course, cutting and polishing reduces the clearcoat thickness, so it is not something to do on a regular basis - you do it a couple of times at most (in the life of the paint) to get rid of the surface scratches from car washes etc., and then of course it won't need doing again because you won't let it get scratched.
There are some very good cutting compounds out there - but they are not found in the general motor accessory shops - those shops usually have all-in-one polish/silicone wax products that are designed for a quick fix for the casual enthusiast, and again usually lack the guts to do the job, making up for it with a false silicone shine - see below. That's not to say products like T-Cut are no good - they're fine for small jobs, it's just that they're not as effective and economical as those products available to the trade, such as what's on offer at a paint supply shop.
I use one by Mirka (Finland) called 'coarse' that breaks down during polishing and gives a really nice, shiny result. Some cheaper coarse products are REALLY coarse and give awful results on clearcoat, adding more scratches. Anything that is deep orange and gritty, or deep green and gritty, is probably a risk. Modern compounds are usually white and feel really smooth, like toothpaste. Take the advice of a local trade supplier as to which products are the best available... I like 3M Finesse-It III, for example. Actually anything by 3M is probably a good bet.
I think it's important to use a compound that's silicone-free, so you don't get a false shine (that won't last, as the silicones dry out later). With a silicone-free compound, you know that when you have a shine, you really do have a smooth surface ready for 'waxing' (or a new-generation synthetic product such as Turtle Wax Ice paste) to seal the surface and ensure the shine really lasts. I've had great results that way, the finish requires very little maintenance once you get it up to standard.