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The 147/156/GT 'how to' thread

How to remove a 156 front bumper.
Original thread -

Changed my headlamps (to GTA style ones) this evening and as there isn't a front bumper removal guide I thought I'd take some pictures as I went along ...

1. Remove the Engine undertray (I won't give any instructions for this because as far as I can tell every single one is held on with a different combination of bolts/screws/cable ties ...)

2. Undo the 2 screws holding the wheel arch cover (you'll need to turn the steering wheel to opposite lock in both directions to achieve this)

3. Prise out the wheel arch cover from behind the bumper so that you can gain access to the torx screws holding the bumper on

4. Undo the torx screws, there "should" be 2 at each side and a push fit hold the bumper on at the sides ... (although mine actually had 3 torx screws on the nearside??)

5. That's the hard bit done ... open the bonnet and undo the following screws

6. Each grill is held in by 3 very solid push fittings, prise them out carefully making sure you don't damage the bumper

7. Leaving this

8. The bumper should be hanging on just with the push fit connections on each side of the bumper, just give it a gentle push down and it should come off

Refit is the reverse of removal ...

Alfa 156 10v 2.4 JTD + AHM fitted Koni FSDs, Eibach Pro Kit Springs,
AHM 200+BHP remap, Q2, 8C Alloys, GTA lights, Leather Interior...

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Last edited by bobda; 24-02-09 at 23:00.
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The 147/156/GT 'how to' thread

How to do the 42,000 Service on a GT JTD

Original Thread:

OK. I decided to do the 42,000 3 year service myself after being quoted 370

I changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter. This is how i did it:-

1. Buy parts. I get mine at trade cost, 60 all in.
2. Get the car warm, take it for a 15 minute run so the oil is nice and hot.
3. Jack the front of the car up, support on axle stands and remove the bottom cover (torque screws and 10mm nuts)

Oil and filter change

4. Using an 8mm allen key drain the oil into a tub.
5. Remove oil filter cover
6. Remove oil filter - ensure you have a tub underneath to collect oil spillage
7. Smear clean oil around the new oil filter seal, tighten by hand and using a filter wrench (or gently with grips) tighten a further quarter of a turn
8. Resecure sump plug - do not overtighten.
9. Refill oil using correct grade oil, I put 4.25L of oil back in, checked it on dip stick (it showed 3/4 full) then ran it. Topped up to correct level next day to get an accurate level - do not overfill!
10. Check for leaks!

Fuel Filter Change

1. Remove engine cover
2. Remove the quick release fuel pipes and electrical connectors from the filter housing. NOTE: - there is an electrical connector on the base of the filter. Be carefull not to yank the unit upwards when removing.
3. Seperate the filter from the housing
4. Oil up the seals and replace the new filter
5. Reconnect all the pipes and electricals
6. Wipe away any fuel spillages.
7. Start the car (it will start after a few turns while the filter self primes) and check for leaks

Air filter change

1. As above remove the engine cover, jack up and support the car and remove the bottom cover
2. Working on top of the engine remove the snorkle intake
3. To gain better movement of the air box I also removed the fuse box and fuse box base
4. Working under the car, lift the box out of the bottom bracket (or pull the braket down gently to release) undo the two air filter box securing clasps, open the box and pull out the filter - Watch out for debris falling into your eyes!
5. Open the box at the bottom as wide as possible and feed in the new filter (sorry no pics). The filter should sit in very easily. Close the box and re-secure the fastening clips.
6. Reconnect all the bits in reverse order.

It took me 2 hours to complete all of the above, very straight forward. Hope this helps some of you save a few quid, obviously there may be easier ways to do this, and of course you attempt this at your own risk. The only thing I cannot do is reset the service light so I suppose I will have to get that sorted now.

Last edited by BigFoot; 30-03-09 at 00:49.
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The 147/156/GT 'how to' thread

How to change the wiper linkage on a 147/GT.
Original thread -

Hi all

I know a few other people have had failed wiper linkages before, so I thought I'd knock up a quick guide on how to change the linkage. Mine went last week when I stupidly turned my wipers on when the screen was frozen over. To have a new linkage fitted by an Alfa dealer will cost you between £250 - £300 I reckon, so this is a good money-saver. Shouldn't take you more than two hours if you're reasonably competent with simple jobs.

First off, obviously you need a new linkage. I got mine from EB Spares for £95 +vat and carriage, came to about £117 in total. The ordering process is a bit odd, but delivery was next day.

Click here

Tools needed:

Torx Screwdriver (to remove scuttle panels).
Socket set with ratchet and possibly screwdriver body thing.
WD40 possibly.

Ok, here's how to change the linkage:

  1. Open the bonnet, easy one.
  2. Carefully prise the covers off the bottom of the wipers. They are hinged and will stay attached, so be very careful not to pull them too hard as they will snap. Picture 1 below shows the wiper base with the cover off, exposing the nut. I managed to remove the covers easily with my fingers, so you shouldn't need any tools.
  3. Spray onto the exposed nut with WD40, just to free them up a bit.
  4. Using the correct socket size, unscrew both bolts and remove them and the washers, keep in a safe place!
  5. Carefully lift each wiper assembly off. You might need to wiggle and use a bit of force, just be careful to not smack the wiper against the bonnet! Picture 2 below shows the scuttle panel with the wipers removed, and the wiper spindles exposed.
  6. Now you need to remove both parts of the scuttle panel. There are six torx screws in total, two of them have covers over them at the bottom of each a-pillar. Once these are removed, you need to gently pull at the right-hand side panel first (as you are looking at it), because this one overlaps the left one. Once you have removed both panels, you'll have the broken linkage exposed as shown in picture 3 below. Picture 4 is a close-up of the broken part of the linkage.
  7. Now you need to remove the broken linkage. This is secured by three bolts; one on each end and one in the middle. This middle one is hard to get to, so if you have a screwdriver-type handle for your sockets, use it here. You will also need to remove the cable that attaches to the left-hand side, press the little clip in and pull firmly.
  8. When you have the broken part removed, curse at it and then throw it in the bin. Unless you want to salvage the motor from it.
  9. Fit the new wiper linkage, and secure with the bolts, then test by turning your wipers on once. You should see the two little spindles turning. If you don't, you probably forget to reconnect the cable.
  10. Refit everything. When you put the wipers back on and tighten them up, make sure they are in the appropriate park position, otherwise when you turn your wipers on you run the risk of knackering them again! Picture 5 shows the new linkage fitted.
  11. Be mindful of the rubber seal on the scuttle panels when re-fitting, make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath. Make sure you give the scuttle panels a good whack with the base of your palm to make sure they clip in properly, too.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 07022009054.jpg (93.3 KB, 106 views)

Last edited by bobda; 13-02-09 at 11:43.
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The 147/156/GT 'how to' thread

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Re: EGR valve fault?

How to change the EGR valve

Original Thread:

Apologies for dodgy pics - took them in a hurry using my phone before I dash off to work.

The EGR valve is located at the back right hand side of the engine just underneath the plastic cover. It is in line with the oil filler cap and the red power steering fluid reservoir. This pic taken from right hand side.

Attachment 60373

Remove the engine cover to access the valve. Valve is actually secured by 6 bolts - 4 to the inlet manifold and 2 to the recirculating mesh wrapped feed pipe.

Attachment 60374

Remove black pipe from clip. Undo the nuts holding the black pipe retaining clip. Remove clip. I found it easiest to remove the two vertical bolts holding the feed pipe. When you remove the bolts be careful to catch the thin metal gasket sitting on top of the pipe flange!

This would also be a good time to remove the electrical connector at the left hand end where it attaches to the black actuator housing.

Attachment 60375

Remove the four bolts holding the valve to the manifold and remove EGR valve.

Refitting is the reverse of removal - as the Haynes manuals used to say!

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Alfa GT JTD (No More) <-> MGF <-> Suzuki GSX-F 650

Last edited by BigFoot; 03-03-09 at 01:26.
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Re: Alfa 147 Key Fob - Assembly Help

How to change a key blade on a 147 fob.
Original thread here.

All done and ready to go!

I've done a 'cut and keep' sheet for anyone interested.

For those who have already done this...Does this guide need altering?
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Last edited by bobda; 05-03-09 at 20:53.
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Well Happy The 147/156/GT 'how to' thread

'How to fix the EGR Valve'
Original Post here:

Hoorah hoorah I fixed it - for free too

Sorry, I must calm down, but this will be helpful to many of you with JTD engines and should probably become a sticky or in the 'how to' thread.

Like many others, my jtd GT had lost power below 2500 rpm and I quickly suspected the EGR valve. I spent an hour or two cleaning out the carbon/soot from the valve and making sure it moved freely. I was sure that this would fix things, but no such luck

Now I don't like to have to spend money unless I really have to, so I looked further into things. Some of you recommended blanking the EGR off, but I read that this could cause turbo issues in time. Others fitted a new EGR valve for c. 100 + fitting and nearly always had success.

So, I figured that the problem had to be down to a fault with the solenoid/actuator rather than the valve itself. I spent hours on the web searching for some more information and eventually found this thread from another forum (Vauxhall)....

how to clean z19 egr valve (proper method) - Vectra C / Signum Owners' Club Forums

This goes into detail on how to fix the root cause of the majority of EGR failures - a siezed solenoid. It's really very easy to do, has saved me some money and resolved the problem altogether. Note that further through the thread there's a pdf of the photos and method for you to save or print as required

Don't bin your EGR fix it


Last edited by BigFoot; 10-04-09 at 00:53.
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"How To" change air filter 2.4 JTD 10V 150

How to change air filter 2.4 JTD 10V 150.
Original thread here;

I recently noticed my JTD starting to get a little smoky. The air filter was due a renewal so I decided to change it. I’ve learnt a lot from this forum so decided to put something back and do a quick How to. This is my first attempt so be gentle.
It’s an easy DIY job and I hope it helps others out.

Firstly I removed the negative lead from the battery. I decided to do an ECU reset whilst I was at it and also it’s always good practice to do so. You will need your radio code after disconnecting.

You can just make out the air filter housing deep in the bowels of the engine bay.

Remove the plastic relay cover.

Remove the U shaped hose and cover the hose to the turbo to prevent anything falling in. I’d previously replaced the original clips with Jubilee clips to make things easier.

Pop out the two relays which will allow you better access to the relay bracket screws.

Unscrew the protective caps if fitted and remove the nuts (10mm AF). Push the relay bracket out of the way.

Unplug the MAF.

Remove the screws in the lid of the air filter housing.

Remove the lid.

Remove the filter.

Old and new together.

Replace the filter. I always put a dab of grease on the screw heads to stop them corroding.

The rest is just the reverse of the above.

If, like me, you’re very anal then you can give the engine bay a good clean when you’ve finished.

Good Luck.

Last edited by bobda; 31-01-10 at 22:24.
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The 147/156/GT 'how to' thread

How to clean the EGR valve on JTD 16V and 20V engines.
Original thread here;

I have created a PDF manual with step by step photos and procedures for fixing a EGR valve on a 1.9JTD.

This how-to may be applicable for other Alfa / Fiat, Opel, Vauxhall and Saab Diesels with the same or similar EGR valve.

Please download from the links below.

How-to Fix the EGR on a 1.9JTD.pdf




Last edited by bobda; 15-08-11 at 21:08.
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