the results look ok, though not exactly like you specified.
on the front, you have 'negative toe', which equates to toe-out. and on the rear, you have some 'positive toe', or toe-in.
whilst there's a slight difference in the toe at the rear on each side (arising to a slightly off-centre thrust angle), i don't believe it's that easy to adjust/correct; well, it's do-able but takes time, and cos the difference is so minimal, it won't be apparent on the road. not only that, the specs are 'static' (ie: car standing completely still), and once you start to drive, the movement of the suspension (up/down) and flex in the bushes means it all changes as you go over bumps and stuff (ie: is 'dynamic').
converting 'degrees' to 'millimeters' is not so simple. i presume it is standardised, but i'm unsure exactly how many 'minutes of a degree' equate to one 'millimeter' (it depends on the radius of the imaginary circle). though you do refer to millimeters, so i suspect it's included in the spec sheet but chopped off.
whilst i'm no expert in this field, i would still say that your alignment is very satisfactory. a smidge of toe-out at the front is not detrimental, even though it's not the perfect 'zero toe' you wanted. zero toe might reduce tyre wear, but a bit of toe-out will actually aide turning corners cos the outside tyre follows a wider arc/radius than the inside wheel (ie: outside tyre drives around a 'bigger circle' than the inside wheel), as well as reduce the effect of bump-steer.
toe-in on the rear aides stability around corners. it will help minimise lift-off oversteer, for example. though it will feel like the car does not 'turn in' so aggressively. i think your specs are fine though, for a road car, where you probably want to avoid oversteer.
there's lots of info on the internet to explain these terms (google). here's one i quickly checked: Wheel Alignment A Short Course