Having had the usual squeaks and knocks, and thanks to this forum, I have been slowly replacing the upper wish bones and droplinks and have now started on the lowers as funds have allowed.
Having started in the evenings, after work, about a week ago I now wish I had just taken the car to the garage for the lowers wishbones as it is turning into a pig of a job, so just as well I am a determined (stubborn according to the other half) so and so.
Have been following the alfa workshop guide and got the driver side out after splitting the ball joint with a 'gentle tap' whereas the other side has taken three evenings, a lot of gentle taps, a bent splitter and finally a heavy chain and trolley jack to get it parted ways. I have tried to get the new wishbone in as per guide and there is just no way that those four holes line up to bolt it back together so the suspension has come out and thankfully that has allowed the wishbone in and bolted. Of course now that the wishbone is in the suspension will not go back in so I decided to remove the suspension fork, by **** does that bolt not want to budge. Brought the lot into my local garage and with a lot of heat, air gun, long bar and almost sheared bolt it has finally come off.
Now that I have the fork off I am wondering would I be as well replacing the suspension, it is 11 years old and starting to show it. Budget isn't great but looking at the AP kit which get good reviews and wondering as anybody fitted it. I am in a van six days a week so the car is only really used once a week on on the bank holiday weekends so don't really want to spend a fortune on it but thinking now would be a good time to upgrade the handling.
Thanks Pud237, that was my thinking on it as well as I have the orginal out. Was a job I was considering doing anyway, just a bit sooner than I was planning, will get the driver side stripped down while I wait for the new suspension to arrive.
My Q4 started out as just my oil feed bypass project, but it evolved as these things do. Mine is an 06 plate also. However, sub frame off to get at the rear oil gallery plug - needless to say, it was wafer thin, figuratively speaking. New sub frame, Light Blasting and then powder coated.
Slight drip of water from radiator. Radiator off to get at the Oil filter/cooler module - new radiator needed.
Checking out the condition of the front lower arms as oil bypass pipes and modified oil filter/cooler now on the car - bushes shot - new arms. T.W.R. £366 for the pair.
On first getting the car up on the lift to start the work, dripping from one of the boots of the steering rack - shagged - new steering rack.
Given, I had just re-bushed the rear differential - bought a new trailing arm - now spare as Power Flex produced a set of bushes for original trailing arms, I am getting kind of dizzy with all the expense and wondering have I remembered everything.
All set to go back together but for the fact Paul's on holiday for a fortnight - not begrudged given he has done so much great work for me on the Q4, GTV and GT. But still fretting that all the stainless pipework is pinched up properly - God forbid that I have a leak and everything has to come off again.
Hoping for good result from my oil redistribution plans and at least everything has been renewed underneath and I look forward to many years of trouble free driving.
Checking out the condition of the front lower arms as oil bypass pipes and modified oil filter/cooler now on the car - bushes shot - new arms. T.W.R. £366 for the pair.
Some price for those TRW arms for a 159, I got the pair of TRW for €154.
I did play around with the idea of removing the hub but thought the suspension out would be easier. As i say I was planning on replacing the suspension anyway so now is as good a time as any.
Also need a bracket for the air filter housing, the one on it is in bits so any pointers as to where to get one would be great.
My arms came from Alfa Shop and as yet remain boxed up. I made the assumption they would be TRW (not TWR) but I don't actually know: I'll find out when Paul gets back. But he said they were the best one could buy. I trust his judgment and have seen them generally at £190 each on the internet. Either way, it is something I had not anticipated but remain philosophical about it. I suppose looking at it positively, I get new ball joints at the same time, but that would also true had I got them cheaper.
I didn't remove the hub, just disconnected the driveshaft from the diff flange. Then I could swing the hub out of the way enough to get the wishbone out. Not too bad a job.
Putting togther the new suspension and when tightening the nylock nut on top of the shock absorber shaft , the shaft will spin when trying to tighten the nut once it reaches the nylock material. Will the shaft stop spinning once the car is lowered back onto its wheels or is there some way to stop it spinning so that I can get the nut tightened further?
Similar question; when you're tightening the nut on top of the shock (to hold top mount on and spring compressed) how far down do you tighten it?
Might be just me but there's a lot of thread poking out the top that will allow variable amount of pre-compression? Should I compress springs as much as possible, assemble and put nut on so it reaches end? If you get my drift?,
You need to tighten it all the way down, this is to effectively 'lock' the shock absorber rod into place in the top mount. You don't want any play here as the shock rod & nut will rattle against the metal inner of the top mount if not sufficiently tight.
Thanks, I pick up the old girl tues/wed when back from morocco! Mot, new ECU, airbag sorted, cv boot, gearbox leak fixed, new rear door handle and GTA rear roll bar. 18yrs old she deserves some love!
Got it tightened down all the way, repurposed and old spanner bent to the right angle to get purchase. Get everything torqued up right when I get home this evening and that should be the front done. Now contemplating doing the rear which, on paper, looks a straight forward job although we all know that that long bolt will not want to move. Will order up the rear arms and droplinks and do the whole lot when I or somebody else is at it. Will give the bolt a clean down and apply some penetrating fluid over the next few days while I wait for the bits to arrive...
Sorry, another thought while I am at it. Obviously I will be sitting a bit lower and wondering about wheel alignment. Could be a couple of weeks before I get a chance to look at the rear so wondering do I hold off and get the whole lot aligned or just get the front done for now? Are there any special considerations to take into account now that the car is sitting lower?
Your front alignment is based on your rear alignment. So your rear alignment will need to be adjusted first regardless.
If car is lowered, your camber will most likely will be out of spec. As long as the camber is equal on each axle, its fine.
Been giving the rears a wire brush down and soaking with some penetrating fluid over the last day or two in preperation for tackling the changing of these, new rear arms, droplinks, long bolt etc ready to go. Looking at elearn it mentions a flap for access to the top bolt of the shock but don't see one on mine so wondering is it a matter of just unscrewing and stripping out all the boot liner etc?
Well I had to admit defeat changing the rears and bring it to a local garage, could not get the long bolt shifted and took some effort by the guys in the garage to do same. (Don't like being beat!) New bolts in with plenty of grease should they need removed again.
Back on all fours now and liking the slightly firmer ride, definitely not as crashy although have only had it out for a short spin and looking forward to a longer journey in the next few days after a wheel alignment as she is pulling slightly to the left.
While under it I notice that the rear arb bushes need done and see a few sizes mentioned for these, I assume I will be looking for 14mm? Can't find an option for the whole arm with bushes so again, I assume, take the whole old arm off and clean it up before fitting the new bushes. I see a clip on ytube for a 156 where they had to drill through the bush bracket to split it to get the bush out, I imagine it is the same for the GT, anybody any experience? Thanks.
Looked 14mm alright a bit thin for 17mm I'd say, will give it a quick measure when I get home before ordering. Was just looking at the options online and see a few different diameters, thanks Pud237.
Has been an expensive month as new rear discs and pads also ordered along with everything else!!! Ah well should be good for several 000kms more as that is pretty much the whole suspension set up front and rear renewed over the last few weeks. Will get the discs renewed and filters, oil etc changed in the next week and I'll be good to go.
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