Not uncommon for the seals to go bad and need some attention. It's worth getting sorted now rather than wait for later... If it's left it'll turn into a horrible mess and cost twice as much to put right!
Not to hard to do at all, hardest bit i found was having something the right size to get old washer out. A new washer should seal it but check for any damage to the seat first and use a seat grinder if needed to get it nice and flat again
1, 3+4 seem fine, is it worth doing all of them or just the problem one?
This seems to cover the steps needed (annoying music though)
However any tips on removing the return pipe assembly (circled on the attached image) - I'm assuming that the circlip is removed, but does the fitting then simply pop out of the injector body?
You say no 1 seems fine but was it just me or did the solid fuel line seem to have bubbles coming from it aswell?? Maybe it's my tired eyes....
Yes just pop the clip out and pull. You have the upgraded metal fuel return on there so they're nice and solid (mine came with plastic t pieces, load of *@#!)
The return pipe is just a snap-in fitting once you've taken the circlip out. Tug straight up, in line with the injector, with a slight wiggle.
To re-seal #2 you will have to remove the steel feed pipes to #1 and #2 and both injectors. Otherwise you can't undo the clamp nut easily, and the alloy clamp -which lifts out with the injector - won't clear the body of the injector on its left. If it was #4 leaking, you'd have to take them all out, L to R.
So when you put them back, you start with the right-most injector and work to the left.
Frankly, it's not much more work to replace them all. And the way they overlap means that if #3 starts leaking next week, #1 and #2 have to come out again.
A flat-bladed screwdriver with a blade that is tight into the hole of the washer will fish it out, or find a long bolt that's a little oversize and file a taper on it. Clean the seat so it is spotless and smooth.
Also you need to use a torque wrench on the nut after fitting a new copper sealing washer. 25Nm from memory, but check eLearn.
Frankly, it's not much more work to replace them all. And the way they overlap means that if #3 starts leaking next week, #1 and #2 have to come out again.
The pipe fittings will unscrew from the injector body so you can remove 3 without needing to remove 2 etc. Although you often have to remove the feed pipe from an adjacent injector as well as the one you are removing.
Nothing in there to come out, but bad stuff can happen if you unscrew the top off an injector and don't watch where all the bits go.
If you ever get some really badly stuck in injectors, the sort that are so badly stuck in you don't mind wrecking them just to get them out, you can unscrew the pipe fittings and screw in a long bolt of the same thread, then slip a wheel brace over the bolt and push/pull it to provide a twisting force on the injector. Doing this while someone else lifts it with a pry bar can help work the injector up and out.
These are the two seals that came out, No2 on the left.
No2 was much more compressed, having developed a ridge around the circumference, leading me to think that when installed the correct torque setting was not used.
No 1 fortunately came out a lot easier and although the seal looked in good condition I replaced both.
Having cleaned up both injectors and re-installed with the new seal am happy to report no more leak & I can now drive & demist the car without gassing myself to death!
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