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Cleaning inletmanifold?

Hi all,

A buddy of mine has bought himself a 147 1.9 JTD 16V, I also have with the same engine, his has done about 160k kilometers (100k miles) and mine has doen 256k kilometers (about 160k miles).

Now he has had some work done, like cleaning the EGR and inlet manifold.
Since he has done this the car runs better, but also uses a lot less fuel, a lot less then my car.

Since I have been dissapointed with the consumption of my car since I own it, it got me thinking.
Would you guys think it is worth cleaning the inlet manifold on my car or is the milage to high?
Also, is it worth doing this with stuff like the Forte Diesel Intake Cleaner?

Thanks for any help and advice.
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To clean it ....you have to take it apart and i believe jet washing works quite well!

Forte stuff won't do anything - otherwise many of us would have done it already


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Yes to clean it you need to remove it and then either jet was or sand blasted inside, you dont want to clean it in place as once you've seen how much muck is in it you wouldnt want it going through your engine.
For convenience you could either replace it with a new manifold which will have the swirl valves or find one thats had them taken out.
If you decide to reuse your manifold you would be wise to remove the swirl valves if your car has them and have the holes either welded or pluged and to stop it all getting dirty again have the egr valve shut off and deleted.
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I'm guessing (because it's never been mentioned anywhere as far as I can see) that it's not possible to split the manifold in-situ and slide the outside half (air intake half) up and away so the insides can be cleaned. Seems only the engine half is held by the studs but I assume other stuff gets in the way of the lower screws holding the manifold halves together making in-situ splitting a no no.
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I'm guessing (because it's never been mentioned anywhere as far as I can see) that it's not possible to split the manifold in-situ and slide the outside half (air intake half) up and away so the insides can be cleaned. Seems only the engine half is held by the studs but I assume other stuff gets in the way of the lower screws holding the manifold halves together making in-situ splitting a no no.
I have often wondered if the manifold can be split in situ, that would make good sense.
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I have often wondered if the manifold can be split in situ, that would make good sense.
Only one way to find out.
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The plastic type can, in fact it's the easiest way to take it off and replace it. Undo the manifold stud nuts and 3 allen head bolts on the back, and the plastic plenum can be separated. That exposes enough stud length to remove the studs, and lift off the metal stub inlet containing swirl valves and actuating mechanism, with motor mounted underneath. Removing the studs is needed else the HP fuel pump mounting bracket is in the way.

I'd expect the earlier metal plenum version will also dismantle in situ, but I don't think that design will help with the studs. I've not worked on one, but if not, I can't see much point. Most of the work is done already, and the manifold will be much easier to clean, deal with swirl flaps etc, if removed completely.

It's not an horrendous job, really. The most taxing bit is removing the vacuum oil separator bolted to the back of the block. But even that's not too bad once you know where the 3 bolts are (eLearn has an image) and have tools to deal with them (long sockets). Putting it back is not as bad as expected. I found it easy once I'd taped the bolts into the long socket as a handle to get them started. You can't see much, but mechanical braille is good enough. On mine 2 of 3 mounting holes in the bracket were open slots.

Due to my stupid cockup with wiring (EGR plug and swirl flap motor plug confused) I had my plastic inlet off twice. The second time was really easy, though removing and replacing 10 studs is tedious.
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