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Help Clutch Pedal

Hello everyone I'm having weird problem with my clutch pedal.

After replacing clutch by my local alfa mechanic I noticed that my pedal is sticking sometimes half way through or sometimes at the very bottom and its hard to press it or depress. Sometimes pedal getting stuck and i have to pull pedal with my foot to get it up again... all that happens when I press clutch pedal faster.

So I came back to this local Alfa mechanic and he told me that this is clutch master cylinder that is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Yesterday I took my car back to the garage with new cutch master cylinder to fit.

He replaced the clutch master cylinder but the same thing is happening I still have problem with the pedal. It keep sticking half way through sometimes at the very top or bottom.
Brand new Valeo clutch kit fitted, brand new clutch master cylinder fitted too
besides that he said that he checked the Clutch Slave Cylinder and to him it looks like new so no need to change it...

Does anyone have any idea what causes that problem ? I would really really really appreciate your help

my car is an alfa 156 2.5 V6 cf3 model
thanks
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One last part of the system to check would be the clutch damper. A small cylinder fitted onto the line a little beyond the master cylinder. It's there supposed to smooth out pedal feel and to stop vibrations from being transmitted from the clutch itself to the clutch pedal, but it's not really a mechanical necessity. So what some people do is to just "delete" it. It could be leaking internally, or have air trapped inside it. Part number 60556925.
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Did you have pedal issues before you had the clutch replaced? If not then perhaps a chance that it is an issue with the clutch kit/release bearing/clutch fork? Not nice to have to consider possibly having to take the box apart again I know but it all sounds a bit coincidental to be a separate issue -though it does happen. Stiff, creaky clutch issues have been associated with clutch fork bushes, plenty of comment on here about it. Good luck with it.
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Originally Posted by Giorget2 View Post
One last part of the system to check would be the clutch damper. A small cylinder fitted onto the line a little beyond the master cylinder. It's there supposed to smooth out pedal feel and to stop vibrations from being transmitted from the clutch itself to the clutch pedal, but it's not really a mechanical necessity. So what some people do is to just "delete" it. It could be leaking internally, or have air trapped inside it. Part number 60556925.
Thank you for your reply I'll let him know about this clutch damper hopefully it's cheap fix.
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Is the pedal mechanism OK? If it's an external slave, have you checked the smoothness of clutch release by manually operating the fork pivot shaft?
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Originally Posted by gtv160 View Post
Did you have pedal issues before you had the clutch replaced? If not then perhaps a chance that it is an issue with the clutch kit/release bearing/clutch fork? Not nice to have to consider possibly having to take the box apart again I know but it all sounds a bit coincidental to be a separate issue -though it does happen. Stiff, creaky clutch issues have been associated with clutch fork bushes, plenty of comment on here about it. Good luck with it.
Hi.
Yes I had almost the same problem. before clutch change clutch pedal was sticking at the very very bottom I would say almost every time whereas now pedal is sticking and sometimes makes grinding feel to it i don't know how to describe it... hard to push or sometimes it freezes while pressing half way through.
I forgot to mention that before clutch change biting point was extremely high
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Is the pedal mechanism OK? If it's an external slave, have you checked the smoothness of clutch release by manually operating the fork pivot shaft?
I dont know if pedal mechanism is ok and i don't know what manually operating the fork pivot shaft is
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here is short video of me pressing the clutch pedal. You can clearly hear that something is not right :/

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Get someone else to work the clutch pedal whilst looking at the operating arm on top of the gearbox. Check to see the operating arm is moving in sync with the clutch pedal and isn't in fact sticking as the clutch pedal is released. The pedal returns by the clutch release arm pushing it back up via the hydraulic line, with the exception of the last bit of pedal movement which uses the clutch pedal return spring to push it fully up. However this spring is pretty weak and doesn't seem capable of returning the pedal from the fully depressed position without the aid of the hydraulic force from the clutch load.

As someone else also mentioned, the clutch damper can affect the return pressure in the hydraulic line, Item 6, so definitely worth double checking:

FIAT ePER

Last edited by Alexie; 17-10-16 at 10:17.
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Clutch pedal sticking half way through when car is sitting few hours without moving in the morning is the worst.
After pumping the clutch for few minutes clutch pedal seems getting a bit better but it stinking sometimes while driving
Apart from that when I drive and when I want to change gear revolution gauge shoots up while pressing clutch pedal
Clutch was changed week ago :-(
Does it mean that guys fitted faulty clutch ?
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Sounds from your post 6 above that the problem existed before the clutch was changed so it's most likely related to the release mechanism not the clutch itself. Changing the master didn't help so that leaves the slave, damper or sticking bearings on the release arm. You need to eliminate each of those before messing with the clutch again surely. Seem to also remember problems caused by a kinked flex hose connecting to the slave cylinder, also worth checking.
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I'm going to take my car to the garage today.
I will tell them what you suggested
Hopefully they won't charge me fortune again

Thank you for your help :-)
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So ! He did replace the Slave cylinder today I took my car form the mechanic paid only for the part because he said he will do it free of charge.
I jumped in to my car, destination home and guess what ? after 10/20 miles BAM ! the same thing clutch pedal sticking half way through. good God this car really hates me !

I called this mechanic straight away saying that clutch pedal is still faulty, he said that he need to strip it apart and see what is going on in the gear box and the clutch pedal mechanisim BIG BILL COMMING UP F******CK SAKE !

.
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Replaced the slave?

I'd have checked/replaced/deleted the damper before messing with the slave.
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Replaced the slave?

I'd have checked/replaced/deleted the damper before messing with the slave.
He replaced the slave, the thing that is attached at the top of the gear box,( this is what he told me) I'm not sure if we are talking about the same thing. It only cost 45 pounds.( that's what he told me tho ) To be honest I'm totally ****ed off ! Sooo much time and money wasted and still no results. My wallet is getting reeeeeally thin and if he is going to take the gearbox off then it means another 260 pounds for the labour + parts needed. Absolute Nightmare!
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I'd have a very good look at the pedal box first, to see if anything is broken or sticking.
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I agree, it's something I suggested worth checking on Sunday.

Sounds like another round of "Parts Roulette" coming up. :-/

A set of reasonable quality long nosed pliers will be what - £8 at B&Q? Less than the £45 last outlaid. Disconnecting the clutch master cylinder pushrod will allow testing of the pedal action, the pliers being to remove and refit the "R" clip.

That aside, I'm hatching this idea that the clutch fork is not properly seated in the release bearing, as the bottom pivot bushing of the fork shaft has lifted up and rotated, offsetting the fork height - which absolutely would be error on the part of the clutch installer. But before whipping the gearbox off, it would be prudent to explore everything else.
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@Addo
I have one of those "R" pliers. I will try to disconnect the clutch master cylinder form the pedal mechanism on my own today to see if there is anything wrong with the pedal it self..
What would be the next step too look at if the pedal mechanism will work properly ?
I only have very basic tools too :-/
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Great, it's a squeeze to work in there but make sure the pedal when disconnected, moves smoothly through its travel. There will usually be a small amount of sideways wobble present but not heaps.

You'll have to lift the pedal up to start its return process, there's a "tipping point" where the assistance spring should finish lifting it back for you. Try not to let it slam back as this can upset the clutch contact switch.

If there is not a flat washer sandwiched between the R clip and the master cylinder pushrod end, fit one with a smear of grease each side - it stops the clip being chewed up.

After that, the next test is to remove the clutch slave cylinder and lay it to one side while you try to manually operate the clutch lever (engine off, of course). They are usually very stiff but should feel consistent through the range of travel.
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@Addo
Ok buddy I managed to disconnect the Master cylinder and honestly clutch pedal feels smooth like new no cracks weird noises up and down feels super consistent and smooth like hell
So we know for sure now that clutch pedal mechanism works like a charm.
Oh yeah should I put it back together and start working on slave or its better to leave the master disconnected and remove the slave ?
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i removed the slave cylinder and my clutch pedal went straight on the floor :/ how do I bleed the system so the pedal will go up again ?
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The pedal won't go back up without the push rod on the slave cylinder being pushed back in by the clutch release arm ... or something else I guess, such as a your thumbs. The pedal returns by the hydraulic pressure from the slave operating the master via the hydraulic line. It doesn't need bleeding, just the slave push rod pushing back in.

Have you checked the Damper to see if it's leaking fluid ?
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Piston accidentally fall from the slave cylinder and Fluid leaked on the ground :-(
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Re-fit the slave in it's bracket with the shaft pushed back in by the clutch arm.

Open the brake fluid reservoir, lift the clutch pedal back up to normal position, crack open the bleed nipple on the back of the slave and attach a hose/tube directing fluid into a bottle, depress the clutch pedal fully and hold the pedal down, do the bleed nipple up, lift the clutch pedal, open the nipple, press the pedal, close the nipple, lift the pedal etc...

Be careful to check the level in the brake fluid reservoir every now and then, make absolutely sure it doesn't run low. Good idea to have a small bottle of fluid on hand for topping up.

Continue in this fashion until no more air comes out of the bleed nipple.

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Re-fit the slave in it's bracket with the shaft pushed back in by the clutch arm.

Open the brake fluid reservoir, lift the clutch pedal back up to normal position, crack open the bleed nipple on the back of the slave and attach a hose/tube directing fluid into a bottle, depress the clutch pedal fully and hold the pedal down, do the bleed nipple up, lift the clutch pedal, open the nipple, press the pedal, close the nipple, lift the pedal etc...

Be careful to check the level in the brake fluid reservoir every now and then, make absolutely sure it doesn't run low. Good idea to have a small bottle of fluid on hand for topping up.

Continue in this fashion until no more air comes out of the bleed nipple.

The editor hasn't mentioned that unless you're a badly mutated baboon or an octopus you won't be able to do this by yourself you will need a friend to press and release the pedal or a "pressure bleed" gizmo to replace the pressure that would come from the clutch pedal with the "friend" method.Its also good practice to attach the hose before "cracking open" the bleed nipple, unless you were looking forward to blindness and screaming or removing the paint from your engine bay.

Can I say that I slightly disagree with Addo ( even though I have a high level of respect for his opinion and suggestions) about the "constant pressure to operate the clutch" comment earlier. I've just put in a new clutch and to help try and find out what caused my release bearing failure I did exactly what he's suggested with both the old bearing and the new one, putting a length of pipe on the clutch fork operating arm, ( you cannot operate it by hand it's way too stiff ) I found the action gets harder until you get past a certain point in the travel then the pressure needed lessens considerably especially if the arm moves a long way as with a new and well bled slave cylinder. Applied to the pedal this translates to:- as you get very near to the floor the effort needed to push the pedal for the last little bit of travel can reduce rather than stay constant. If your plastic clutch fork bearings have seized and you are turning the bearings in the gearbox casting rather than the shaft in the bearings this will massively exaggerate the effect, the clutch will be very stiff till about 4/5 of the way down, then get a little better, then get worse on the way back again this might possibly give you the feeling of a "sticking point " near the floor. Also this can be compounded if the rigid section of the clutch pipe near the slave cylinder has been kinked as can happen when the slave is being removed and replaced "from" its bracket rather than "with" the bracket. Over bending the copper tube can almost completely block it, slowing the rate that the fluid will flow back through it when pushed by the clutch finger springs and making it almost impossible for the weedy little pedal return spring to push it that last little bit.

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Last edited by Yorkshirekeith; 19-10-16 at 19:00.
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