156 rear tracking problems - Cant see how to solve it - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 15 Old 26-09-16 Thread Starter
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156 rear tracking problems - Cant see how to solve it

Hi, my 156 has failed its NCT because I cannot track it at the back. When the bolts are turned they do very little although they seem to turn all the way. The NCT allows a +-18 reading on the machine which is quite a big allowance yet we cant get it any better than 22.

Two different 4 wheel alignment guys have tried it and so has my mechanic. I was talking to a well known Alfa technician here and he was insisting they must be doing something wrong. My mechanic rarely misses anything, could the cams be damaged?

Its wearing the inside edges pretty badly now. Any ideas on how to solve it?

Last edited by samsemtex; 26-09-16 at 09:54.
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Arms not bent or bushes past their best?
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You need to replace the bolts, nuts and washers if you have not already done so.
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This has come up before. I think the slots in the crossmember were blocked with years of dirt and Aluminium corrosion, preventing the cambolt moving sideways.
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This has come up before. I think the slots in the crossmember were blocked with years of dirt and Aluminium corrosion, preventing the cambolt moving sideways.
Would I have to take off the entire cross member to clean it? These are accessible from the top, yes?

Taking the bolts alone out would require the fuel tank to come off would it not?
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Two of the bolts do hit the tank if you try to remove them.

I've never removed the rear subframe but from looking on eper the subframe is on four bolts/screws which locate up into fixed nuts in the bodyshell and you don't need to get access from the boot/inside. I would give them a real good soaking in a good penetrating fluid for a few days first as these will be steel into alloy so likely to be well corroded in.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsemtex View Post
...Two different 4 wheel alignment guys have tried it and so has my mechanic. I was talking to a well known Alfa technician here and he was insisting they must be doing something wrong. My mechanic rarely misses anything, could the cams be damaged?

Its wearing the inside edges pretty badly now. Any ideas on how to solve it?
Fully release the nut and washer from the adjusting bolt and take of the arm. After this lightly knock on the adjusting bolt until it is released (probably "seized" in gravel and dirt). When it is moving, slide the bolt back until it hits the petrol tank. Slide it back and forth continously and watch gravel and dirt coming out of the eccentric hole. Do this until almost all dirt is released and out on the ground (There can be A LOT). You should be able to slide the bolt also sideways after a while. Finish off with some oil, WD-40 or anything in the category.

Do this for both bolts (left and right). [Probably works best when the gravel and dirt is dry.]

You should be able to mount the arms back on, and make the necessary toe-in adjustments after this. (approx. 3mm in total IIRC)

Good luck!

Oven
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You may also wish to check that the bolt through the traverse arms and hub carrier isn't bent. It's suprising how easily it is bent and how often this happens.
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Thanks very much. I really appreciate it.

I'll try it as soon as I can and report back on how it goes.
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This is a well timed thread as I was going to look at this on my GT 3.2 at the weekend. The last time I had the tracking done they said the rears would not adjust and as I will be ordering new tyres shortly (Goodyear Asymmetric 3) I wanted to ensure the tracking is spot on for these. Hopefully I will find mine as described and a good clean out will resolve the issue!
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This is a well timed thread as I was going to look at this on my GT 3.2 at the weekend. The last time I had the tracking done they said the rears would not adjust and as I will be ordering new tyres shortly (Goodyear Asymmetric 3) I wanted to ensure the tracking is spot on for these. Hopefully I will find mine as described and a good clean out will resolve the issue!
I had to gently grind away my transverse arm bush and crack it open. That was a tuff old job
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Take the subframe off and do a proper job, it's easy to remove it, 4 bolts go through aluminium into the chasis rails so it's not steel into alu as was suggested. Then like others said, all screws out, clean the dirt and put it back together, they should move by hand then.

http://shrani.si/f/2O/Td/1CEBx8xd/zadmoststrongflex.jpg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan Q4+33 View Post
Take the subframe off and do a proper job, it's easy to remove it, 4 bolts go through aluminium into the chasis rails so it's not steel into alu as was suggested. Then like others said, all screws out, clean the dirt and put it back together, they should move by hand then.

http://shrani.si/f/2O/Td/1CEBx8xd/zadmoststrongflex.jpg
I like your anti-roll bar
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its a 21mm torsion bar from peugeot 205 gti, i welded the blades on from 8mm thick steel, great for racing, no understeer now
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its a 21mm torsion bar from peugeot 205 gti, i welded the blades on from 8mm thick steel, great for racing, no understeer now
Can't imagine why...
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