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(Post Link) post #1 of 30 Old 25-09-16 Thread Starter
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156 cutting out

Hey new here im 19 and have been driving 2 years now have had a corsa c, a saab 9-3, a rover 400, a 205 gti 1.9 and a c2 vts but my favourite car i have owend is my 2003 156 veloce 1.8ts with about 85k on
A year or so ago when i would accelerate hard it would drop power then pick up again, then it got more frequent and every time i put my foot down it would kind of cut out and feel like it was in limp mode untill i restarted it i took the car of the road and it got to the point if it even does fire up if you try to rev it it will just cut out and it doesnt even start up much now just keeps firing.
I have changed the pulgs, the coil packs, the throttle body, have discconected the lambda sensors, i have cleaned the air flow meeter and tried disconecting that and nothing makes a difference, any ideas? Thanks Shea.
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It might or might not be related, but on one 147 I have seen a harness connector mounted on the intake manifold, chafe badly against the aircon pipes at the bulkhead. So much that it wore the insulation off the wires. The fix was to re-insulate and re-position the bottom engine mount. Might be worth checking in case your car's engine is rocking back in this way.
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Crank sensor, maybe. Doesn't fit the classic symptoms, but its a fairly cheap thing to check. I assume you have no EML or other fault signs....?
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(Post Link) post #4 of 30 Old 29-09-16 Thread Starter
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Thanks, have checked the earthing and everything seems ok, have oderd a crank sensor through work for 25 quid and will give that a try on my day of on sunday, looks like a pain in the arse of a job mind.
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(Post Link) post #5 of 30 Old 25-10-16 Thread Starter
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So i have still not changed the crank senosr but i tried putting a jumper cable from the battrey earth and the engine mount fired straight up, took it on a drive and the problem still happens just not as bad?
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(Post Link) post #6 of 30 Old 25-10-16 Thread Starter
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Fault codes
P0201
P1531
P1682
P1684
P1680
P1687
P0120
P1121
P1122
Have tried googling them and getting mixed results :/ any help greatly appreciated
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From a very brief google search the first few codes you've listed appear to be ignition related, the later ones appear to be battery and throttle related. It would be worth replacing the crankshaft sensor as the engine running will work off the engine speed picked up by this sensor. If that is not precise all other readings will appear out of sync to the ECU.
Replacing the sensor may put it all back in sync - also read that these sensors can start to play up when hot and seem to fix themselves when cooled a bit, problems return when the sensor warms again.
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From a very brief google search the first few codes you've listed appear to be ignition related, the later ones appear to be battery and throttle related. It would be worth replacing the crankshaft sensor as the engine running will work off the engine speed picked up by this sensor. If that is not precise all other readings will appear out of sync to the ECU.
Replacing the sensor may put it all back in sync - also read that these sensors can start to play up when hot and seem to fix themselves when cooled a bit, problems return when the sensor warms again.
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(Post Link) post #9 of 30 Old 25-10-16 Thread Starter
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Thanks the crank sensor is next in my list altho i tried to ger it with a 5mm and it just span and now a 5.5 wont go in either i fewe i have stripped it :/
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You mean the internal hex? It'll either be 5 or 6, can't remember now which I used.

Doubt it is at fault, you could check it for resistance at the ECU plug; pins 10 and 59 of the harness-to-ECU connector.
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(Post Link) post #11 of 30 Old 27-10-16 Thread Starter
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Have re earhted the car today and still happening, starting to loose my patience with it now
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Have you done a proper ECU and throttle reset after you changed the sensors? IMO this should be done every time you change a sensor to allow the ECU to reset and recalibrate with the new input. I cannot promise anything since I'm a fairly new owner myself, but from what I've read here on the forum it is worth a try!
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(Post Link) post #13 of 30 Old 28-10-16 Thread Starter
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How would i go about doing that?
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(Post Link) post #15 of 30 Old 07-11-16 Thread Starter
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Have spent 3 hours today trying to get at the crank sensor with no luck sadly i think i might have to cut my loses and scrap it, will be sad to se it go as there isnt many rosso red veloces with the 17 inch alloys on and the leather momos but have spent alot of time on it now, shame aswell it only has 87k on the clock
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is it bad form to ask about parts for sale? I'm a relative newbie myself, so not 100% sure on protocol, I suspect I should be encouraging you to have another crack at getting it sorted out rather than break a low mileage car for parts.

What colour are the seats?
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(Post Link) post #17 of 30 Old 08-11-16 Thread Starter
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Dont have the time or space to part it out will end up ringing the scrap man
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(Post Link) post #18 of 30 Old 11-11-16 Thread Starter
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Not sure how selling works on here but if anyone wants a 156 that keeps cutting out for very cheep just give me a shout, from the north east
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Try this

There are connectors under the ECU, make sure all connections here are tight.
There must be someone who can look at it, it is an unusual problem...
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Originally Posted by sheaharbinson View Post
Not sure how selling works on here but if anyone wants a 156 that keeps cutting out for very cheep just give me a shout, from the north east
Gawd sake don't scrap it. Let a Alfa independent specialist have a look. They have specific diagnostics that'll reveal the problem. If they need to dig deeper they'll give you an estimate.

To scrap the car is worthless. The price for scrap metal miniscule.

I've never had this sort of issue with my two 156s, but it sounds like electrical... that's just a guess though.

Scrapping a car is the easy option; at least let someone who's worked on Alfas give it a once over before deciding.
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(Post Link) post #21 of 30 Old 14-11-16 Thread Starter
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The car is worth 700/800 so i dont want to be spending to much money on it, i have a feeling it could be ecu related :/
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If you have access to a laptop download multiecuscan and read the codes from there, it will also give you a useable description (you'll need an OBDII connector - Ama*on have loads). It's hard work googling the codes because they are manufacturer specific in many cases and different ecus have different codes. Codes without a fault description won't help much unfortunately. Best to do this before throwing any more parts at it really. I understand that the car isn't worth much but it's worth bugger all if it doesn't run. Not everything is an expensive fix...

MES will also allow you to clear the codes and see which reoccur, as well as letting you see the parameters the ecu is seeing. The free version is limited to 4 parameters at a time, but that will let you at enough to get a better idea of the faults.
p0201 appears to be an injector circuit error on cyl 1, so you could check that the wiring is intact, at least as a start. Left side of the engine as you look at it, towards the back the four red plugs.
p1531 looks like throttle position sensor. It is fly-by-wire so that may also be a duff connection and p0120, p1121 & p1122 are also throttle position related. That might explain the reluctance when you press the pedal.

Try this list http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...-ii-codes.html (OBD II Codes)

Also, re cleaning the MAF - it doesn't work. It is too sensitive to be touched, it can even be damaged by vibration caused by a broken air filter box lid.

Hope that helps, it looks like a nice car and I hate to see them scrapped for electronic faults.
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(Post Link) post #23 of 30 Old 15-02-17 Thread Starter
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So today i changed the crank sensor and the engine bay wiring loom reset the warning lights and it fired right up drove about half a mile then instead of cutting out it started seriously jerking when trying to accelerate... seriously fed up now
Have changed
Throttle body
Coil pack
Plugs
Crank sensor
Engine bay loom
Re earthed the car
And now this i like to think im quite good with cars but i and everyone i have asked has no idea now...
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Have you reset the ECU and re-read the codes since changing those parts, and have you checked the fly-by-wire throttle connection? There are threads about the connections at the pedal causing problems.
The engine bay loom is quite a complex thing and I would check that everything went back where it should, just in case...many a problem caused by forgetting a plug or some other basic 'it can't happen' mistake.
Pleased you've persevered with it though.
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(Post Link) post #25 of 30 Old 16-02-17 Thread Starter
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Cheers will have a look at that, the codes are showing fault with injectors 1,2,3,4 witch leads me to think fuel pump? Will take the injectors out clean them and test them tomorrow if not them will whip the fuel pump out and probably ofer a new one
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