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(Post Link) post #1 of 10 Old 25-09-16 Thread Starter
Status: hoarding parts for a major overhaul...
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As totallyalfa.com is still offline, hope there 'familly ill health' is not serious. I, unfortuneately still need some tools which i cannot find anywhere else. Please could anyone advise me as to where to get them:Twinspark Crankshaft Locking Tool 1.820.617.000, and Twinspark and JTS Inlet Cambelt Pulley Tool 1.822.155.00, 1.860.056.001.
Everything else i have managed to source and have already done a, successful, cam belt change on the JTS, but the fine tuning needed by slackening off inlet sprocket escapes me!! Have since bought a 1.8TS CF2 for 200quid and want to give it a full service before fitting LPG. Am also looking for a recommended airbag 'crash data removal service' as airbag light on and checked all connectors and cleared all complying codes. Airbag ecu code: 60658009, but replacement 60665492 will work too.

Any info greatly appreciated.

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To be fair you don't really need those to change the cambelt. You just need the camlocks and a dial gauge.

There is no fine-tuning needed by slackening off the inlet sprocket, you slacken it off to ensure even tension across the belt path. Then nip it up again once tensioned. Cam position is maintained all through this procedure by the cam locking tools being in place.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 10 Old 26-09-16 Thread Starter
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Have heard from others that some experience misfire at idle putting it down to slightly out timing. I want the timing to be as close to perfect as possible. have already done belt, pump and balance belt change. However before i go blaming injectors (or use terraclean), i want to insure timing is spot on. And thus need, no want, those two tools.
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You don't need them to check the timing.

If the cam locks are on, and the dial gauge is saying TDC, then it's done.
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(Post Link) post #5 of 10 Old 26-09-16 Thread Starter
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But surely there will be slight differences between belts. And maybe previous sprocket setup was out.

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Can I borrow you for a weekend Pud237, would love to pick your brain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkomnino View Post
But surely there will be slight differences between belts. And maybe previous sprocket setup was out.

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just done this job on a 2.0 TS in a GTV..as has been said if TDC gauge says TDC and the camlocks are in place all good...

BTW I didn't re-fit the balance belt,engine feels no less smooth for it and revs a bit more freely and feels abit more ''willing''...I wouldn't bother with it personally.
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(Post Link) post #8 of 10 Old 26-09-16 Thread Starter
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"How very dare you" I'm selling JTS balance belt kits for a song on ebay.O

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Originally Posted by lkomnino View Post
But surely there will be slight differences between belts. And maybe previous sprocket setup was out.
Once the cam locks are on the inlet cam gear is easy to release as it has four hex/torx screws. A carefully placed screw driver holds it steady. The exhaust is a much tighter single nut but can still be loosened with a socket and breaker .. again support it, don't try to undo it using just the camlock to hold it. Be careful of the camshaft sensor ring on the back of the exhaust gear.

I would get longer screws for the camlocks. The locks are thicker than the cam bearing caps and so the original screws don't go as deep into the head. I've got a couple of dodgy threads because of this from earlier paid-for cambelt changes ..

The only other tools that might be useful are the tensioner keys .. the balance tensioner is a wotsit to get to and although I managed to tension the cam belt once with just a screwdriver the second time it would not play ball!

cheers, Gary

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(Post Link) post #10 of 10 Old 27-09-16 Thread Starter
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Okay have all but cam sprocket spanners. And managed to get longer bolts, and have already done cam belt change.
So, you too, are saying that I need not bother. And there I was hoping to add two more tools to the workshop. :'(
Fair enough.

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