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(Post Link) post #1 of 70 Old 20-09-16 Thread Starter
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Acceleration and Starting Problems

Hi. This forum has been very helpful since I bought my GT a few months ago, but I can't find an answer for my current issues. A few similar-ish ones, but not specific. I'll post them both here, because they may well be connected.

1. First, I have experienced problems starting the car from the start. There's nothing consistent about it though. I have never had it happen when the car is in my drive, but nearly every time I go into town, it happens. Sometimes it will turn over and turn over and then manage to start; sometimes it will fail entirely to start. But it's never failed a second time. The angle the car is parked doesn't make a difference, nor the amount of fuel, as I've seen suggested elsewhere.

2. Second, the car has little acceleration in first and second gear. Even with the revs up around 3k, sometimes. I have pulled out in front of cars or tried to overtake before, thinking I had plenty of space, only for nothing to happen when I put my foot down.

As for what I've done about it so far... I cleaned the EGR, which gave me a little bit of power back, but not much. Then I recently took it to my mechanic - an Alfa specialist - and he put in a new EGR and replaced an air intake pipe under the battery (a big tear in it had been taped up), telling me that would fix both issues. It made no difference whatsoever. So now I'm down 255.

I don't know enough about cars, but I'm wondering about the MAF and the crank sensor. Any other pointers would be appreciated. Thanks
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Likewise. Been told to fit new EGR valve and it will cure the problem.

Turbo doesn't kick in when your past 3K rpm, and engine light is constantly on.


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(Post Link) post #3 of 70 Old 20-09-16 Thread Starter
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Likewise. Been told to fit new EGR valve and it will cure the problem.

Turbo doesn't kick in when your past 3K rpm, and engine light is constantly on.


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I'd recommend cleaning the EGR first to see if there's any difference. It's easy to do yourself, and if it does make a difference then you'll know replacement could work. The only reason I thought changing the EGR would work for me is that one of the screws was stripped and I was unable to separate the two parts to test the little valve thing. It could have been stuck open or closed for all I knew.

Also, I don't have an engine light, and I honestly don't know how to tell if the turbo kicks in... :s Did I mention I don't know about cars...
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(Post Link) post #4 of 70 Old 21-09-16 Thread Starter
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It has got worse now. For the first time, it nearly failed to start while sitting in my drive And there's a very mild incline on the way to work which I normally go up in 5th, but today had to drop to 4th because the speed was just plummeting. And even 4th didn't seem to be enough. Would very much like to get to the bottom of it.
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Get codes read with multiecuscan and then do some logs.
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(Post Link) post #6 of 70 Old 21-09-16 Thread Starter
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So another update: I was on the phone with the mechanic earlier, and he told me that a new manifold sensor could fix it.
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It's unlikely to resolve the issue. I think the root cause is physical not a sensor problem.

As mentioned a log of diagnostic events will assist greatly. Playing "Parts Lotto" on a common rail diesel is fraught.

Do you know if the car was ever misfuelled?
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(Post Link) post #8 of 70 Old 22-09-16 Thread Starter
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It's unlikely to resolve the issue. I think the root cause is physical not a sensor problem.

As mentioned a log of diagnostic events will assist greatly. Playing "Parts Lotto" on a common rail diesel is fraught.

Do you know if the car was ever misfuelled?
I have no idea if it was ever mis-fuelled. It had something like 5 owners before me. I do have fairly extensive receipts and whatnot from mechanics, but I think they might only be from the man I bought it from.

And yes, just guessing at random parts and hoping it will fix the problem isn't ideal. Not too sure how to go about getting the log, but I'll see what I can do.
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Many body computers will allow you to use a proper diagnostic tool to sort faults by date of occurrence, and/or frequency. I would hope MES can do this for you. That's what I mean by a log.
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Many body computers will allow you to use a proper diagnostic tool to sort faults by date of occurrence, and/or frequency. I would hope MES can do this for you. That's what I mean by a log.
I mean I'm not sure where to go. My mechanic did plug into the computer to check for errors and the like, and found nothing, but he's a bit too far to go to just for that. I'm sure I can find someone.
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(Post Link) post #11 of 70 Old 30-09-16 Thread Starter
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Well, the good news is I can get my mechanic to give me diagnostic logs after all. The bad news is, the reason I have to go to him is a brand new problem
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No one has mentioned vacuum hoses but the car does eventually get moving with loss if vacuum to the vnt solenoid. However, for 5 worth of tubing change them all anyway.

Has the poster tried disconnecting the MAF sensor? Does this restore performance?

Has the MAP sensor been cleaned?

Does the eml light come on? If so the codes are essential for fault diagnosis. A 15 reader or phone app and 10 Bluetooth plug will suffice.

What is new problem?
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Blank the egr to eliminate it from enquiry.
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Pray your engine didn't have swirl flaps. If it did it might not any more.
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(Post Link) post #15 of 70 Old 01-10-16 Thread Starter
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The EGR was replaced as my mechanic was adamant that it would fix the issue. It did nothing whatsoever.

There are no lights on the dashboard (except for the side light that doesn't work!).

I haven't yet disconnected the MAF to see if it changes anything, but I intend to. I may just have the mechanic do it since I'm going anyway.

The new problem is an unpleasant ticking, clicking sound from somewhere just to the left of the dipstick. From the depth it seems to be coming from, I'm inclined to think it's something to do with the top fan belt pulley. There's not much point in me asking anyone about that, because the noise itself is as inconsistent as the situations in which it occurs.
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Does it smell of fumes? Feel above the injectors for any draught the injector washers can fail and sound like ticking when they leak.
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Try a length of hosepipe, or similar; one end to an ear, go searching with the other end (carefully). I've just found a squeal from my PAS pump this way, it really does work!

Disconnecting the MAF sensor sounds like a good move.
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Sorry, didn't realise there were more replies. The car is with the mechanic now - he also thinks that the new sound is one of the pulleys. I should find out tomorrow. He'll also try disconnecting the MAF while it's there.

Just so happens I'm now getting a glow plug error, one sidelight needs replacing, and my driver's window is going down when it's supposed to go up When will they invent a car that doesn't have any problems? I never had this trouble with my peddle-powered fire engine.
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Hmmm. Multiple faults are not fun to deal with. I had the alternator clutch pulley fail and this gave a tap tap tap sound that sounded like it was coming from the top of the engine. With the belt off the sound was gone. Rotating the pulley by hand it was easy to diagnose that the clutch had failed on the pulley as it could turn both ways. Unfortunately, to replace the pulley was an epic alternator removal battle. Hope your failed pulley is easier.
Might be worth starting a separate thread for each of your faults.
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Hmmm. Multiple faults are not fun to deal with. I had the alternator clutch pulley fail and this gave a tap tap tap sound that sounded like it was coming from the top of the engine. With the belt off the sound was gone. Rotating the pulley by hand it was easy to diagnose that the clutch had failed on the pulley as it could turn both ways. Unfortunately, to replace the pulley was an epic alternator removal battle. Hope your failed pulley is easier.
Might be worth starting a separate thread for each of your faults.
It is the alternator pulley after all. I'm not looking forward to the invoice. It's very sad looking out of the window and not seeing my car in the drive!

I think the only help I need at the moment is about the loss of power, though I'm a little concerned about the way the window was behaving. I won't get the car back until Thursday, so I'll be back to report on any more developments then
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Well, I finally got my car back the other day. I'll be lucky if I can buy my children bread now! Although I have no children, so that's a plus.

The new sound was the alternator, it turned out, not the pulley, so that was replaced. Now, purely by coincidence I'm getting a terrible squeaking from the engine - sounds like the fan belt to me.

As for the main problem - the lack of acceleration - he thinks he knows what's wrong. Bear in mind I don't know what I'm talking about, so I'm just paraphrasing what he said. There are 4 flaps in the top of the manifold which have stopped opening and shutting like they should. This is causing smoke to come out of them and will be reducing my power output. He has detached the motor that controls them, and is suggesting that I seal them shut rather than replace them (I think because he knows that I can't afford to do much more at this point). I don't know if that's completely to blame or not.

Meanwhile, I went out just a few minutes ago. There's a very mild slope that I had no problems getting up in 5th gear when I first got the car. Since the issue began, I've started to consider changing into 4th for the slope as I start to lose speed. I hadn't yet reached the point of doing so, but today going up it at 40, I had to change into 3rd, and even then I was still losing speed. This is getting ridiculous!

While the car was in the garage, my mother was giving me lifts and her Fiesta has better acceleration than my GT. That is a very sad state of affairs.

Also, not I'm afraid I still didn't get those logs. I think I'm going to order the connector and download Multiecuscan myself. The free version will be sufficient for it, right?
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After a little research, I think he's talking about the swirl flaps, which seem to give a lot of people issues. But I see a lot of people take them off rather than seal them. I live at the bottom of a small hill, and this morning I barely got to the top of it in 1st gear! It's not that bad once the engine has heated up, but I really need to work out how to fix this. Do you think that these swirl flaps could be responsible for such power loss? Is it too much to hope for that it's as easy to take off and clean as the EGR?

Also, the mechanic thinks the squeaking problem might be the tensioner.
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I have had a few problems like this myself and recently developed the clicking (checking the alternator pulley tonight after reading this). Most of my problems have been about leaking hoses. I have now replaced the two after turbo and the one from the airbox/maf to the turbo. I have also replaced the vacuum hose from the vac reservoir to the controller and from the controller to the actuator (you should be able to see the actuator moving if somebody revs it up while you look). My egr was spotless and working fine but I put a plate in with a small hole which reduces without causing the light to come on. All these made improvements and are relatively easy to do especially with the guides on here.

If you need more detail on any of these you can search or ask here.

What I will say is it drives you nuts but its a great feeling when you fix something, good luck and persevere.
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I have had a few problems like this myself and recently developed the clicking (checking the alternator pulley tonight after reading this). Most of my problems have been about leaking hoses. I have now replaced the two after turbo and the one from the airbox/maf to the turbo. I have also replaced the vacuum hose from the vac reservoir to the controller and from the controller to the actuator (you should be able to see the actuator moving if somebody revs it up while you look). My egr was spotless and working fine but I put a plate in with a small hole which reduces without causing the light to come on. All these made improvements and are relatively easy to do especially with the guides on here.

If you need more detail on any of these you can search or ask here.

What I will say is it drives you nuts but its a great feeling when you fix something, good luck and persevere.
Thanks My clicking turned out to be the alternator itself, so a new one was needed.

My next step is to unplug the MAF sensor. If that doesn't reveal anything, I'm going to book it into a bigger garage. I'd rather it only went to Alfa specialists, but at this point, I'd rather have people who can try parts out without me having to actually spend a load more money.
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Pray your engine didn't have swirl flaps. If it did it might not any more.
I think you may need to make an appointment with a garage with experience of this or you maybe closing the door after the horse has bolted.
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