done, number 1's tubes were both half full of oil. I have cleaned them out, and wire-brushed & gapped all 8 plugs
Replacement MAF fitted but not plugged in, battery fully charged. Started the car and the revs fluctuated. Switched off, plugged in the MAF, started the car, revs nice & even. Quick test drive, she pulls nicely right through the rev range.
So, todays question. I have yet to change the temp sensor. Is it worth me running the ECU reset process at this point? Or should I wait until the temp sensor has also been replaced?
Leave the temp sensor for now, drive it for a bit and see how you get on.
Fit a new MAF & Temp Sensor & check the spark plug tubes first before doing anything else and I think you may be pleasantly surprised.
New temp sensor (2nd one I tired, I bought the wrong one initially - mine is a four-wire type) £13
Good used Bosch MAF from a convincing chap on eBay £15
Fiddling with the plugs under the seats cost nothing and he ran the diag to clear the warning lights in return for a packet of chocolate hobnobs
MoT itself was £35
So the car, with 12 months ticket, owes me £163, fuel notwithstanding. Thanks to all who were good enough to give tips and advice, very much appreciated.
Next stop, cambelt and some decent tyres. Any recommendations on tyres?
Haven't had much chance to use this yet, been away with work and so I haven't managed to get any decent miles onto the car. That changed last night when I used her to nip out for takeaway and noticed that, in a 5 mile round trip, her temp guage crept above halfway.
So this morning, after a 10 mile "enthusiastic" drive, this happened:-
I got out and left her running until she reached the 'max' position and at this point the cooling fan kicked in. The fan ran until the temp dropped back to the 3/4 position and then cut out. I left the car idling on the drive with the bonnet up for about 3 mins, at which point she had reached 'max' on the gauge again and the fan came on again.
Turning on the heater motor with the temp turned to max had the effect of bringing the temperature gauge down. The heater blew hot while it was switched on. The coolant level is ok, car starts and runs with no issues, doesn't smell unpleasant, nothing appears to be binding or slipping. I have replaced the temp sensor (the one in the thermostat housing) as I had an error code that indicated that the temp sensor had failed.
Anything likely to be wrong or is it a case of "they all do that, Sir"
Agree with PUD, could be anything, a broken wire from the Temp sender, faulty gauge, possessed by ex-mother in law . . . . .
Can't be bothered to read back through all the posts to see if you have already or not, but if you own a laptop, spend the $15 to buy yourself an OBD Adapter and a copy of MultiEcuScan for $50 or whatever it costs. It will save you thousands and you'll spend more time driving the bloody thing than typing on a keyboard yapping to us miserable internet drones!
They don't all do that... Was the temp sensor that you used an original/OEM one or a pattern part?
The gauge could be overreading. It would be good to confirm what the ECU thinks the temperature is by having diagnostics plugged in & reading live data.
Here is the new sender and it's box, no evidence of it being a genuine AR part. I've removed it and re-fitted the original one. I then went on the same test-drive loop. The temp gauge didn't get above 70 in 12 miles/20 minutes driving. I parked up on the drive with the bonnet up and left her idling. It took about five mins for her to read 100-ish and it was at this point that the cooling fan kicked in. As for yesterday & the new sender, no smells, no slips, no odd noises, nothing out of the ordinary. .
Stupid question alert. Does that temp sensor (the one located in the thermostat housing) do anything else other than provide the signal for the temp gauge? Mine has 4 wires, so I'm guessing it provides signal for another function.
There are 4 wires as essentially it is two sensors in one. One gives the ECU a temp reading, the other powers the gauge in the car. These sensors can fail in different ways - if the part that the ECU relies on goes open circuit it will give you a fault code and an engine management light will come on. But if the part that drives the gauge goes wrong, it won't give a fault, just cause gauge misbehaviour. I've seen the part that the ECU relies on go wrong before and report ridiculously low coolant temp - like minus 5 degrees or something, and it made the car in question overfuel and splutter but with no errors.
Also the plugs on the loom that plug into the temp sensor can go dodgy - I've seen the ends of the wires all green with corrosion and changed a good few of these plugs in my time. Usually they give an intermittent connection which causes the gauge to flicker up and down like a mad thing but your high gauge temp could be being caused either by that Cambiare sensor or equally by a dodgy connection.