V6 timing belt + Water pump change. - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 7 Old 22-08-16 Thread Starter
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V6 timing belt + Water pump change.

What can I say other than this is the hardest thing I have ever done on a car. Harder even than replacing the clutch and getting the damn rear bank Manicat off the car!

The amount of nuts and bolts that need to be removed is ridiculous. So many of them are completely inaccessible and most of them are super tight.

The top idler is completely seized onto the top engine mount bracket and nothing is shifting it, not even my 450nm imapct gun, all It did was machine the hex of screw into a nice smooth O. The idler is still in great shape and like new so I am considering leaving it on for now and dealing with it on the next belt change.

The good news is I have most likely found the cause of my rough idle. The inlet cam on the rear bank was quite considerably out of time and the exhaust cam on the same bank was slightly out of time. Not quite sure what to make of this as the timing belt receipt in the service history was from a well known Alfa specialist.

Using this oppertunity to clean up the cam covers and repaint, and clean a lot of inlet components too so the engine should look quite smart when I am done.

Anyone considering doing this, you need £250 of specialist tools (cam locks, deep 41mm socket, impact driver, pro quality 19mm spanner and 25mm spanner, pro quality allen keys, 1/4" drive 10mm socket + tiny driver) and the parts required cost another £300, you won't spend much more if you get a pro to do it.

If/when I do this again, the engine is coming right out!

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yep it shows that this engine was designed for rwd cars, when longitudaly mounted is much easier to access the belt.
About the timing, i dont really understand why alfa used taper mount for gears and not some kind of locking sistem or wedge.
It could be that it ran out of phase over time.
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hm, my shop says it's an easy job.. Anyway, they are still the one doing it, as i'm not
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Well yes, you need some good tools, otherwise it's not really worth it to do yourself.

On the timing on the rear bank being out, it's not that uncommon for even "specialists" to mess up the timing slightly when doing the cambelt service, as they will often use the 2.5 cam locks, instead of the ones specially for the 3.2. The 2.5 cam locks "fit" and it all seems fine, but the engine will idle rough, especially when it's cold.
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I have to agree 100%
After taking out a v6 engine a fair few times during my project every time i need to change the cam belt the engine will be coming out. one thing i cant stand and thats having to struggle in tight spots.

Plus once its out the whole engine can be checked over.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ransoman View Post
What can I say other than this is the hardest thing I have ever done on a car. Harder even than replacing the clutch and getting the damn rear bank Manicat off the car!

The amount of nuts and bolts that need to be removed is ridiculous. So many of them are completely inaccessible and most of them are super tight.

The top idler is completely seized onto the top engine mount bracket and nothing is shifting it, not even my 450nm imapct gun, all It did was machine the hex of screw into a nice smooth O. The idler is still in great shape and like new so I am considering leaving it on for now and dealing with it on the next belt change.

The good news is I have most likely found the cause of my rough idle. The inlet cam on the rear bank was quite considerably out of time and the exhaust cam on the same bank was slightly out of time. Not quite sure what to make of this as the timing belt receipt in the service history was from a well known Alfa specialist.

Using this oppertunity to clean up the cam covers and repaint, and clean a lot of inlet components too so the engine should look quite smart when I am done.

Anyone considering doing this, you need £250 of specialist tools (cam locks, deep 41mm socket, impact driver, pro quality 19mm spanner and 25mm spanner, pro quality allen keys, 1/4" drive 10mm socket + tiny driver) and the parts required cost another £300, you won't spend much more if you get a pro to do it.

If/when I do this again, the engine is coming right out!
That's pretty much what I said in the 1st post of my guide thread...

Idler bolt - I've found the best way to remove it after rounding the hex socket off it to use an Irwin extractor.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_od...+bolt&_sacat=0

I don't know what size you'd need to use on it off hand though, we have a box of 10 in metric and imperial sizes and I know one fits the bolt in question.
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Thanks Chris. I had read your guide so many times before doing the job that I had it completely memorised and never once had to refer back to it so thanks for writing that up and writing it up so well.

My hands are bloodied and my back is killing me and the job is almost done. Ran out of time just before fitting the crank pully and reinstalling the newly rebuilt injectors. I have knocked a load of jobs off the list these last few weekends and looking forward to driving it again.

I am surprised to say that fitting the belt and setting the tension is actually easier than on an 1.2 8v fiat! And the v5 doesn't have a razor sharp crank position sensor sticking out of the block right beside the pully to take your knuckles off every rotation.
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