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GT JTDm - Replaced Inlet Manifold

33K views 51 replies 18 participants last post by  halftone 
#1 · (Edited)
Enough was enough. I've been suffering with an MCSF problem since Christmas, after a run it would error and go into limp mode.

The code P2013 suggests a swirl valve problem. Thought long and hard about trying this myself, read a fair bit on the subject in the Vauxhall forums and decided... what the hell!

It was fairly straightforward, EGR off, fuel pump off, throttle body off and other bits and bobs. The cambelt does not have to come off, if you look at the photos you can see the pulley that drives the fuel pump can be bolted in place.

First problem is the shaft of the fuel pump, there is a slot in this in which sits a Woodruff key (a half-moon shaped key about the size of your thumbnail and 4mm thick), locking the pulley means the key is positioned at about 7 O'clock, while tapping the shaft out (using the old pulley bolt to protect the thread) it's dead easy for the Woodruff key to fall out of the slot never to be seen again. If you look at the casing photo there's a hole in the bottom conveniently located so the key can drop out of sight.

You might want to order a spare if you're thinking of tackling this, car was off the road for 2 days waiting for a replacement from eBay....I was incandescent. Use grease or similar to hold the key in place when replacing the fuel pump.

Next problem I had was that the manifold would not come off past the casing that the fuel pump mounts onto, doesn't seem to get a mention in the Vauxhall forums, there must be a subtle design difference.

Removal of the casing was a road I did not want to go down so ground the offending piece out of the way, purists.... feel free to shudder at this.

The fuel pump stud closest to the manifold has to come out, lock a couple of nuts onto the stud to remove.

Other than the above everything else went quite smoothly. It's tight for space back there so allow yourself a long day to do this.

I found that the old manifold actuator was not fully closing the swirl valves, at rest the valves should be closed, the actuator opens the valves as necessary and then should close under the actuator's spring tension, however the swirl valves were so choked they were sticking open.

On to the photos.

Photo showing the fuel pump pulley locked in place.
Engine Auto part Vehicle Motor vehicle Car


Photo showing the offending bit of casing ground down. Also note the hole centre left where the Woodruff key can easily be lost.
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Carburetor


Old and new manifolds
Auto part Engine Carburetor


Look at the state of the swirl valves
Auto part Automotive exhaust
Auto part Automotive exhaust


Parts

1 x Manifold = 55210201
1 x Gasket = 46816020
1 x Actuator = 55205127
1 x Manifold/Actuator link rod = 71740361
1 x Fuel Pump pulley bolt = 73500821
1 x Pump shaft Woodruff key 4mm(W) x 16mm(L) x 6.5mm (H)

Added 5th Apr 2012

There's been a fair bit of chatter regarding the inlet manifold in the last few days, thought I'd add a couple of other points.

Arm yourself with a good selection of hose/jubilee clips as the old ones are nigh on impossible to replace. I've yet to hear of anyone else having trouble getting the manifold off past the fuel pump casing, I looked long and hard and could not see any means of getting it off without grinding the obstruction down. I'd be very interested to know if anyone has found otherwise.
There was no way I was going to remove the casing as it would have meant the timing belt would have to come off and I believe (looking at elearn) the power steering pump.

It's been mentioned that the coolant needs draining, have to say I didn't do that and suffered no ill effects.

I'd also recommend fitting the restricted flow EGR gaskets, I've had these on for a couple of years now and it definitely reduces the build up of residue in the EGR, although not completely, I still have to clean it annually(about 20k miles). There is the option of blanking it completely, however this throws up a MCSF fault. The ECU can be programmed by any of the many tuning outfits to ignore this.

It's certainly worth doing one of the above as the inlet manifold can't withstand repeated removal of the EGR, you'll end up as I did stripping the threads in the manifold into which the EGR bolts mount. Looking at my old manfold I could see the possibilty of drilling a little deeper into the manifold, so, with a 90 degree chuck set about it and then tapped it out with the appropriate tap. I now have 4 stainless steel studs in the manifold onto which the EGR slides nicely. Admittedly I it means the power steering reservoir has to be moved out of the way, but it's only 2 bolts into the bulkhead and adds moments to the job

All the best

Pub
 
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#2 ·
Good write-up, did it make much of a difference to performance not having all that crap in the inlet manifold?

Also now is the time to get that EGR valve disabled or capped off so it doesn't happen again..
 
#3 ·
Blanking the EGR completely throws up an MCSF fault, it needs to be disabled in the ECU. I think only sophisticated software can do this. I fitted the restricted flow gaskets a couple fo weeks back to the EGR, I'm hoping this will be sufficient to keep the muck to a minimum.

Certainly running OK at present, mind you it did before, the problem only occurred ater it had been running at high speed for any length of time, typically towards the end of my 35 mile trip to work. Never used to do it driving round town.

I'm next at work Saturday morning, if it does it again I'll be looking for the nearest tree.

All the best

Pub
 
#4 ·
Well, I think it's safe to say replacing the inlet manifold has cured the problem, no MCSF errors and running a treat.

I'm in love again :inlove:

Next job is to replace the clutch, slips slightly when giving it the beans following the remap, don't think this is something an amateur mechanic like me can tackle on the GT...sadly, the eLearn process looks horrendous.

All the best

Pub
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the offer but you're a little too far away, besides, there'd be little point putting a standard clutch in as I don't think there's anything wrong with the original, it just isn't man enough.

I was thinking of ordering the CG Motorsports uprated clutch, and getting my Indie to fit it at the 60K service which will be due shortly.

All the best

Pub
 
#7 ·
At 60k it will be well worn - mind you I had a CG Motorsport clutch in my 10v and it was fine, did really well even with a lairy remap. That being said I would question exactly how uprated it was, friction plate was an OEM Valeo unit, release bearing was identical to the one that came out and the pressure plate was a Valeo unit as well but with modifications to the fingers. There is nothing in the advert about how much extra clamping force it has over the standard clutch, and with a standard friction plate any extra clamping strength will surely wear it out faster?
 
#9 ·
Sure, could've done. I did consider the option, but decided I couldn't face doing all that work and NOT curing the problem, then having to do it all again.

The Pierburg manifold has undergone a design change, can't say exactly what the changes are, but given the number of issues reported with the original design model it was another factor in deciding to replace it.

All the best

Pub
 
#14 ·
As long as you aren't putting the boot full down in 4th, 5th or 6th before 2,500rpm then even a new standard clutch will be fine. Its loading up the transmission that kills them so quickly (and the flywheels).
 
#15 ·
was waiting for an update on this, thanks pubsinger. glad all is working fine now.

my egr valve was changed the other week and my inlet manifold looked similar to yours. i'm on 77k miles. not had any probs so far.

can you tell me when you had your remap done and if you think that was a contributing factor to more build up in the manifold?

cheers
 
#16 · (Edited)
can you tell me when you had your remap done and if you think that was a contributing factor to more build up in the manifold?

cheers
Who knows?

I'd love someone to explain how the manifold gets that dirty, isn't the air entering via the throttle body clean? I mean, fresh air is passed via the air filter, MAF, Turbo, Intercooler, throttle, manifold...how dirty can this turbo boosted air be?

The only dirty air (as I understand it) comes from the EGR which I wouldn't have thought had anything to do with a remap.

If only I understood :confused:

I had the remap done at this Red Dot , 22nd Aug 2009. I started getting the MCSF errors the week between Chirstmas and New Year.

All the best

Pub
 
#20 ·
I would imagine this would be quite expensive at a garage...if they followed the whole eLearn process. I cut a corner by grinding that bit of casing out of the way, if they were doing it properly the timing belt has to come off and (by the looks of it) the power steering pump.

Here's a pdf of the full eLearn process.

I'd suggest it's a full day if not more.

If you're interested in a remap, there's an coming up in a couple of weeks.

All the best

Pub
 
#21 ·
Hi people, ive have the exact same problems as PUBSINGER... i know it's the swirl valves as i removed the actuator rod that controls the 4 valves and far right valve is leaking black soot/carbon so i know its knackered... i want to fix this myself now i know you dont have to femove the cambelt. i just wondered if you could just buy the swirls valves on their own as i would rather spend some time cleaning the manifold than buying a new one. any advise would be great.

cheers Mark.

oh and my clutch is in the same state as above :rolleyes:
 
#24 ·
It is common on BMWs 2.0d and 3.0d for people to remove the swirl flaps altogether.. But this is because the BMW diesels have a bigger problem with these swirl flaps - they fall off and get sucked into the engine :eek:

But I wonder if the swirl flaps can be removed..
 
#27 ·
Inlet Manifold

I have a Saab 9.3 1.9 TiD, with same engine and similar problems, fault light on and engine in limp mode. EGR valve and swirl valve actuator both changed with short lived success. I cured problem by spraying the top of the swirl valves and linkage with oil, been fine for some time now, but I have a manifold and actuator as spares awaiting a re-occurance, I also have a complete set of HP fuel lines too as another site suggested these have to be changed also.
 
#30 ·
Same engine, same problem

Hello guys,

I'm not an Alfa owner but a Saab owner who's got the same intake & swirl flaps problems.

I own a Z19DTH engine (Saab 93 1.9 TiD 150 HP) and ready to change the manifold due to P1109
error.

I came accross this post and was very interested because it seems it's not necessary to
get the timing blet off of the car :), as they claim in the Haynes.

The procedure from Pubsinger is very clear but I still have some questions.
If you don't mind helping a Z19DTH engine owner ;-)

- it is necessary to remove the engine mount (to get the timing blet cover?)
- if so, need to jack the engine ?
- I've read also it's necessary to drain the cooling fluid, but it seems it's not?
- what is the role of the woodruff key?

Thank you vert much for any help!
 
#31 ·
Hi, based on this engine in the 159, No the engine mount doesnt need to come off to remove the plastic timing cover.
You do need to drain at least some of the coolant as there is a feed between the manifold and head so if you dont the coolant will run int the inlet port when you remove the manifold.
The woodruff key is there to positively locate the pump pulley.
 
#32 ·
Jon,

Thanks for your answer.

The engine mount seems to hide at least the innermost bolt from the cambelt cover. Do you know
what kind of key I need?

Also, is it really necessary to change the injection pump bolt?

Also, what is a link rod? It's the the rod which links the actuator with the manifold swirl flaps?

Thanks for your answer.
 
#33 ·
Hi,Thinking about it I've always taken the mount off and jacked the engine up before taking the timing cover off but I think it can come off without the mount but it might be slightly different on a Saab. They are ribe headed bolts but a 35 or 40 torx will fit, they're not too tight.
Pump bolt..? Do you meant the mount stud, yes on the manifolds I've changed the stud had to come out for the manifold to clear it, on my car it was very tight needing 4 nuts all locked togerther and the ally casing gently warmed up for it to loosen.
Yes the link rod is about 40mm long and goes between the motor and manifold, they are plastic with ball cups on the end which can go brittle and break
 
#37 ·
Thanks a lot for your answer.

I was actually puzzled by a post on the UK Saab forum (UKSaabs • View topic - How to change the Inlet manifold on 9-3 1.9 TiD / Z19DTH ?) which at some point needs to align the fuel pump pulley to insert blocking bolts:

...
Now look at the gear wheel on the injector pump, you notice two extra non symmetrical 6mm holes in it. What you need to do is turn the engine over until these holes come to the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock position. Put the car into top gear and push if forwards or back to get the injector pump gear lined up. When the gear is positioned correctly the two holes will line up with two threaded holes in the back plate. I used a small inspection mirror to check the alignment. Now use two of the hex set screws removed from the timing belt cover and bolt through the injector pump gear wheel to lock it into position. Don’t forget to take the car out of gear again. We need to do this so you don’t lose the camshaft / crankshaft synchronisation.
...

I don't know why this guy pump put the car on top gear?
 
#38 ·
Well that will work, if you push the car with it in gear the pulleys will turn, it's a bit hit an miss though, it's easier to turn the engine by hand.

To be honest lining up the fuel pump pulley and locking it in place should be easy, if you find it confusing you might want to reconsider taking the job on.

Just my opinion

Pub
 
#39 ·
Thanks for your answer.

What I've found confusing was the different ways for different people to do it.

I'll do it because this is the only option for me as I can't afford paying more than 1500 euros
for such a job. I'm just preparing all the steps as a comprehensive procedure to not forget any
step.

But thanks for your advice ;-)
 
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