tried both key fobs and still no joy. Central locking seems to be making loud clicking noise from rear nearside door. Called the AA and of course the thing started first time. The car is now not starting again and I am at a complete loss. The glow plug light has been flashing for about half a mile of each journey for the last 3 months. The latest no start was after a good half hour run in nice sunny weather with a 20 minute stop for a quick pint. This would I guess suggest it is not a glow plug issue. Any much needed help would be appreciated. I am guessing it might be an immobiliser issue. What do you all think?
First: Central locking is a red herring - no connection with the engine immobiliser or anything else on the engine management side......
Second: can you define or clarify "not starting"? Is the engine turning over as usual when you try to start, or is it not responding to the key? Is the code light illuminating and then going off, or is it staying on.....?
Yeah I know, questions, questions.......but we need to know the full position before we can suggest a solution.........its probably going to be a wiring/relay issue, but give us a bit more info and we can probably narrow it down......
Thanks for your reply rgwm, I have spent a couple of hours searching this amazing web site and have come to the conclusion that I need a new crank sensor. Once again, many thanks.
Well I hope it works for you mate. It was the first thing I tried when mine began being troublesome-it didn't work. It's now 8 months or so later, it's spent a total of 10 weeks+ with two different garages, has cost near 2k, and now won't start without a squirt of easystart. And then runs on four and a half cylinders, drops into limp mode under any kind of load, and cuts completely if you try and accelerate.
So, I hope for your sake it IS the crank sensor.
I had a similar problem with mine recently it turned out to be nothing more than corroded relay contact terminals. It started fine for a while and then just refused for no reason, some emery paper a bit of time and some contact grease and it's sorted. The relays I'm referring to are in front of the battery, hope it's this !?!
ps I had a crank sensor problem in the past but my symptoms were it would cut out when warm and refuce to re-start for around 20 mins until the sensor cooled slightly, warm up cut out etc
It's amazing how many crank sensors fail...but at least it's a cheapish repair !!
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