Cam lock tool help.

I started on my timing belt change, it all lined up as well. The cam lock tool are kinda on but the bolts from cam shell bearing arent long enough, they really need to be M7 X 50 mm, and the ones that hold the cam are only 40mm in lenth

Thats ok as long as you can check whether the cams are in the correct position at TDC when you fit the cambelt and tension it.

You can also countersunk the holes in the camlocks with a 13mm drillbit until the bolts fit. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS on the camlocks. They do not have to be that tight they only hold the cams in position against the cam lobes.

Thanks for replies guys, by the way the cambelt is pretty badly split I'm so glad I started this job as it could have been a engine rebuild.

Originally Posted by Dev Cloete

You can also countersunk the holes in the camlocks with a 13mm drillbit until the bolts fit. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS on the camlocks. They do not have to be that tight they only hold the cams in position against the cam lobes.

When changing the belt on my car I used slightly longer bolts to hold the camlocks, as the original bolts only use a small amount of the thread due to the camblock being taller than the bearing cap. I think they are M8's

It is very easy to strip the top part of the thread if you don't do this or are heavy handed.

Ye they dont really thread in at all, I seen some bolts on ebay for about a £5.

They should fit, as long as someone hasn't been there before and stripped the top part of the thread.
You could try cutting the top corners from the camblocks where the holes are to allow the bolts to go in further. Thats if you don't mind modifying the blocks. Or do as Dev said above and countersink or counterbore the holes a few mm.

Also you need to move the cams so that they fit into the cutouts, not try and tighten the block so that they pull the cams into place if you see what I mean.

I did have to tighten the inlet cam to pull it in place with the camlock I got the cam belt on now I just need to tension it, and all without moving the crankshaft I will counter sink them after I finish the job as I cant pull them off now to counter sink as the cams will have moved and I dont want swarf in the engine

I got the belt tensioned ok but I didn't line the belts up with the sprockets does this matter? It says on gazza's website to line them up number 9 and 10 spockets. When I took the belt off 9 was lining up ok but 10 is another 170 degrees clockwise because thats where my pointer is!

You have slackened the 4 bolts holding the inlet cam sprocket to the variator, and the nut in the middle of the exhaust cam sprocket havent you?

This will allow the sprockets to move in relation to the cams. You can the line the mark up at the bottom (On the auxillary belt pulley), tension the belt then tighten them back up.

You will need to fit the lower part of the cam cover to do this.

Then turn it over twice by hand with the cam locks off, line up the bottom mark again and make sure the blocks will fit back on.

If so thats the job done.

Originally Posted by symonh2000

You have slackened the 4 bolts holding the inlet cam sprocket to the variator, and the nut in the middle of the exhaust cam sprocket havent you?

This will allow the sprockets to move in relation to the cams. You can the line the mark up at the bottom (On the auxillary belt pulley), tension the belt then tighten them back up.

You will need to fit the lower part of the cam cover to do this.

Then turn it over twice by hand with the cam locks off, line up the bottom mark again and make sure the blocks will fit back on.

If so thats the job done.

Ye I slackend all that you mentioned, and sprockets can move freely.

But what the heck is my line doing over the other end (on exhaust spocket) so I guess the lines on the belt dont matter if they dont line up then!

I will put bottom cover on and pulley to see if they line up now.

So there's no need to put balancer shaft belts on yet! just turn it through 2 times check the cam locks go on again an bottom lines up!

The lines on the belt can be ignored, all you need to is make sure the bottom mark lines up (TDC) whilst the camlocks are fitted.

Get that sorted first then set the engine at TDC again to do the balance shaft belt after.

I spun it through by hand twice but it's not linning up on pulley/cover with cam locks on, it seems to go past the mark slightly when cam lock are on!

I got a 13 mm drill coming today so I can counter sink tool.

Originally Posted by sa155ae

I spun it through by hand twice but it's not linning up on pulley/cover with cam locks on, it seems to go past the mark slightly when cam lock are on!

I got a 13 mm drill coming today so I can counter sink tool.

In that case you need to try again. The reason why the sprockets are moveable is so that you can align it perfectly.

I promise it can be done, it took a few attempts the first time I changed one.

Originally Posted by symonh2000

In that case you need to try again. The reason why the sprockets are moveable is so that you can align it perfectly.

I promise it can be done, it took a few attempts the first time I changed one.

So how would be the best way! Do I line the pulley and timing mark on the case and try and get the cam lock tools on some how without damage or would it be best to line the cam lock tools up and bolt them then turn engine anticlockwise so the mark lines up!

Bolt the cam blocks on, undo the pulleys so that they can move. Line up the mark on the bottom pulley then put the belt over whilst trying not to move the bottom pulley. Then fit the tensioner, check the front run of the belt is tight, as you need all of the slack in the back run of the belt. Then set the tensioner to the correct tension and tighten the pulleys.

You have to make sure that the engine only turns clockwise (when looking at cambelt end)otherwise you will end up with slack in the front run of the belt which will put the timing out. Then when you are sure it all lines up take the blocks off, rotate the engine again clockwise 2 revolutions until the bottom mark lines up then check the blocks will refit.

if you go past the mark, don't try and turn the engine backwards as it will upset everything, go forwards another 2 turns.

Its quite difficult to explain, you should see what i mean when you are doing the job.

Originally Posted by symonh2000

Bolt the cam blocks on, undo the pulleys so that they can move. Line up the mark on the bottom pulley then put the belt over whilst trying not to move the bottom pulley. Then fit the tensioner, check the front run of the belt is tight, as you need all of the slack in the back run of the belt. Then set the tensioner to the correct tension and tighten the pulleys.

You have to make sure that the engine only turns clockwise (when looking at cambelt end)otherwise you will end up with slack in the front run of the belt which will put the timing out. Then when you are sure it all lines up take the blocks off, rotate the engine again clockwise 2 revolutions until the bottom mark lines up then check the blocks will refit.

if you go past the mark, don't try and turn the engine backwards as it will upset everything, go forwards another 2 turns.

Its quite difficult to explain, you should see what i mean when you are doing the job.

When you say line up the bottom mark after I fitted the cam locks do you mean turn the engine through 2 revolutions clockwise with the cambelt off! Because my mark is just past TDC when cam locks are bolted on.

[quote=sa155ae;1769809]When you say line up the bottom mark after I fitted the cam locks do you mean turn the engine through 2 revolutions clockwise with the cambelt off! Because my mark is just past TDC when cam locks are bolted on.[/QUOTE


If the camblet is off it doesn't matter which way you run the crank. the only reason not to turn it anticlockwise with the belt is on is so that you don't end up with slack in the front run of the belt.

ok this is the problem that I got see photo below, The cam lock tools are suppose to go on the 3 rd shell bearing caps, but if I get it to TDC and the cams lined up when on the 3rd caps my exhaust pulley timing mark is wrong, the only way is to lock the cams in the picture with caps marked 2 & 3 the ones with the red arrow pointing. I'm getting so confused now as to which bearing caps to take off!

Image of cam - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

This is how they are meant to fit, note the cap that has the more upright cutout fits the inlet cam, the one with the cutout angled back fits the exhaust.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...h2000/Belt.jpg

If you try and fit them differently they either won't fit or the timing will be wrong.

Sorry about the plug leads in the pic, as the photo was taken a while back.

You need to remove the 3rd cap from the right on each cam.

I don't understand. The cam sprockets should be loosened off so they can move relative to the crank.

Originally Posted by neileg

I don't understand. The cam sprockets should be loosened off so they can move relative to the crank.

Yes they should. Thats the reason why the cams need locking in place with cam locks. Without slackening the pulleys you won't be able to tension the belt correctly without the crank moving in realtion to the cams.


It is a lot ore difficult to describe how to do the job than it is to actually do it.

Originally Posted by symonh2000

This is how they are meant to fit, note the cap that has the more upright cutout fits the inlet cam, the one with the cutout angled back fits the exhaust.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...h2000/Belt.jpg

If you try and fit them differently they either won't fit or the timing will be wrong.

Sorry about the plug leads in the pic, as the photo was taken a while back.

You need to remove the 3rd cap from the right on each cam.

That maybe the way there meant to be fitted to your car, but I'm sure on my car the locking tools have to be fitted to cylinders 2 and 3 because if I fit them the way you say the timing mark on the exhaust sprocket doesnt line up with the pointer if you know what I mean!