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(Post Link) post #1 of 17 Old 25-11-12 Thread Starter
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key problem

I'm sure this has been covered many times before but I've been trawling the net and haven't found much that relates to my problem.

One of my red keys doesn't lock/unlock the car remotely, the red led does not come on when the button is pressed. I changed the batteries, still nothing. I sent the key to a guy on ebay but he couldn't fix it. Is the only option a new one from the main dealer? I can still lock/unlock the car with the key but I'd prefer the alarm to be set when I leave the car overnight. This happened in the car park at work, had I been able to set the alarm someone may have noticed it happen...
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Last edited by dickyb; 25-11-12 at 17:27.
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The remote key has most likely become out of sync with the remote receiver. I am able to fix this issue if you want it sorted. I'll send you a PM a bit later on.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 17 Old 25-11-12 Thread Starter
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that would be great, thanks very much.

I think its just the key that's at fault, my other key works very intermittently (got it fixed and it worked fine until the microswitch fell off )
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Sorry, I originally mis-read your post and just noticed you actually said that the red LED on the key is not coming on when you press the button on the key.

If this is the case and new batteries don't fix the problem then the circuit is dead so unfortunately it will be a goner. It's easily sorted though with another working circuit from a donor key which you can pick up off eBay and then just swap the circuit over to yours. The donor circuit will still need synchronising to your remote receiver though. If you have one of the 4-digit codes for your existing keys you can do this yourself, otherwise it's something I can do for you.

If you do look at getting a donor key off eBay, be aware that there are two types available...CODE-1 and CODE-2. Only the CODE-1 type has the correct remote circuit inside that is compatible with a 145/146 remote system. A CODE-2 type doesn't. The way to tell is by a number stamped on the blade of the key. If there is a number "2" present it's a CODE-2 key and if there is no number present it's a CODE-1 key (the one you want). See this picture which illustrates the difference (CODE-1 key on the left, CODE-2 key on the right). Just check with the seller before bidding/buying. I'm afraid I don't have any spares myself at the moment otherwise I could have offered you one of mine.

I won't be posting on this forum any more. If you want to know why and/or you want answers to some 145/146 related questions then please feel free to pop over to and post on the alfa145.com forum where you will find me with the same member name.

I have now disabled all my private messaging options on here but you can PM me over on the alfa145.com forum if you need to.
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(Post Link) post #5 of 17 Old 26-11-12 Thread Starter
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ok thanks GE, I'll have a look on ebay and see what comes up. Hopefully we can get something sorted. I've seen some PCBs on ebay, would one of those be an option? (sorry for my ignorance, I know absolutely nothing about electronics )

Last edited by dickyb; 26-11-12 at 09:30.
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You need to check that the PCB in the intended key is the same as the faulty one you have. Tony.

Last edited by Barry; 26-11-12 at 12:00.
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I can't see any circuit boards on eBay at the moment for the CODE-1 type keys but the ones I have seen in the past tend to be more expensive than a complete working key.

There are a couple of keys currently listed that look like they may be CODE-1 keys but I wouldn't just go by the picture in case a generic picture was used (or one from a previous listing) so you would need to contact the sellers and specifically ask.
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its like pulling teeth! I asked one guy which key it was and told him where to look for the code number but he just replied with a part number which meant nothing to me (the part number was S108234CN0).
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It's sounds like the part number printed on the circuit board but I don't have one to hand at the moment so can't check until I get home. If you've got your key with you, open it up and see what numbers it has on the PCB.
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There's a guy on here who's username is Chris. He will refurbish or replace the circuit boards. He'll be fixing my key as soon as I get a second key cut and coded. Drop him a PM, and he'll sort it out.
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I guess that there are no new circuit boards around, but you can fit a new switch onto a board and call it a refurb.
The ones that can be replace easily are made by TRW and have this on the PCB.
TRW 7613/C
ETSI/300. 220
2 07474

Its a pity that the PIC cannot be read, then the processor could be easily replaced. I tried to read two chips before now and eventually blew them!.

Tony.
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(Post Link) post #12 of 17 Old 27-11-12 Thread Starter
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thanks Dan, I'll try to contact him.

Heard back from the guy in ebay, the key I was looking at is a code 2.

There is a guy on here breaking a 145 so maybe I could see if he has the keys?
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If its the one button red key then I believe they're code one.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UndersteerDan View Post
If its the one button red key then I believe they're code one.
Nope. There are two types of red remote keys. They look identical externally (with the exception of a "2" stamped on the CODE-2 keys), but the internals are different. As long as you get a key without a "2" stamped on the blade it will be compatible with a 145/146. Most sellers haven't even aware of this until I've pointed it out to them thus the reason you get CODE-2 keys listed as being compatible with a 145/146 which they're not.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry View Post
I guess that there are no new circuit boards around, but you can fit a new switch onto a board and call it a refurb.
The ones that can be replace easily are made by TRW and have this on the PCB.
TRW 7613/C
ETSI/300. 220
2 07474

Its a pity that the PIC cannot be read, then the processor could be easily replaced. I tried to read two chips before now and eventually blew them!.

Tony.
I attempted to read one too in the past but had no luck so your findings confirm that it's either not possible or isn't straight forward.

I think the "repair" services listed on eBay is simply the replacement of the microswitch and nothing more than that. If the PIC is dead it's easier just to use a donor circuit than try to repair it which doesn't seem to be possible anyway.
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GE is right, most ebay repair services just replace the microswitch but I've been in touch with Chris and he says he can sort my keys out. If you look at his ebay listing it looks like a more comprehensive service than the others so I'm confident he can help.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...d=417038740026

I'll send him my key in the next week or so

Thanks again for everyone's advice and help
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickyb View Post
GE is right, most ebay repair services just replace the microswitch but I've been in touch with Chris and he says he can sort my keys out. If you look at his ebay listing it looks like a more comprehensive service than the others so I'm confident he can help.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...d=417038740026

I'll send him my key in the next week or so

Thanks again for everyone's advice and help
Well if it gets sorted then its much cheaper than a new key. You can do some reading between the lines though ie:-
1. Anyone can attach an uncorroborated quote in their ad. (self praise is no recommendation)
"It's nice to see that there are still people out there, who still care about giving great customer service for such a reasonable price."
2. The page states that the service is for flip keys, tho there is a pic of a code1 remote.
3. The get out clause is there, so you wont see any new board fitted as a replacement, maybe a s/h one if its available, but more likely you will get it back un-repaired if the processor is duff.

So my observation is that if its something loose, it will besoldered up and the switch replaced. (REFURBED!)
Someone did produce the black plastic switch push cover at one time for the after market, I think. Also the switches are available from switch manufactureer. The rest of the discrete components are easily locatable.
That leaves the PIC that is locked so not readable. Eastern european guys can get a read-out, they need 2 working ones and 100 when I checked last.
Getting a spare from breakers is probably the easiest bet.
Tony.
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