The only things I removed from the engine where the inlet manifold, to get to the starter, and the starter itself to separate the gearbox. I did not have to remove the radiator. So didn't even have to drain the cooling system. With a bit of manouvering I didn't even have to remove the bumper to drop the sub frame down.
I made a frame from angle iron to suit the size of the engine sump, and bolted this to my trolley jack to support the engine sturdily, but yes it was floating! Made it pretty difficult to separate the gearbox as they both kept moving. An extra pair of hands would have helped a lot! but it's not impossible.
You can lower the engine down enough so that you can remove the gearbox. I think I tilted it a little just to make things a little easier. I also had a similar tray / frame under the base of the gearbox to keep it fully supported. I was surprised how easily the gearbox slotted back in, much easier than trying to separate it!
I had the whole car up on axle stands to get it as high as possible to make working under it easier.
The axle stands sat at the jacking points at the rear of the sills for the rear of the car, and at the front they sat just inwards of the front of the sills, so the car was nice and sturdy.
The work was carried out exactly as described in the workshop manual. (I've got one of those manuals on CD). It was a bit of a pain having to remove the subframe, but nothing was particularly difficult, just a little time consuming. I did it in two days working on my own. The only problem I did have was one of the engine mount bolts sheared off in the captive nut, so I had to grind it off and weld on a new nut. Luckily I had a suitable sized bolt to replace it.
Other than that everything else went to plan