Join Date: May 2010
Location: Britain / France
County: Greater London / Cote d'Azur
Clutch engagement problems 146 1.6L (Boxer 8 Valve)
[QUOTE=mikejohn;3998192]Need some advice for my 146 because the parts are VERY costly down here in NZ and I don't want to get it wrong. My clutch (done at 91,000 km) now has a further 38,000 on it. It does NOT slip. First symptom - very rough running low revs in 1st and reverse. Second symptom - harder and harder to jam car into 1st, even going through 2nd into 1st. Third symptom - terrible graunching into reverse (I now switch off the engine before engaging reverse !). I've had the selector tightened up, bleed and new fluids, new gearbox fluids but no improvement. Any knowledgeable advice is appreciated. Thanks. Mike.
[/QUOTE=iandbooth] I have a 1996 146L 1.6 Boxer 8 Valve with exactly the same fault! but the sickening thing with my problem is that I only changed the clutch 1.5year ago on 195,000km now its done/on 220,000km (only 25,000km).
Initially when the clutch failed 1.5year ago, it was not slipping, it was engagement of gears problem like yours and the clutch operation was becoming harder on the clutch pedal when one day the clutch fork and release bearing came adrift then I could not engage any gears!
Previously to this I had a clutch hydraulic master cylinder leak (eventually covering the carpet with hydraulic fluid) which I changed, then when I went to bleed out, the hyd. slave cylinder started leaking, so I had to changed that aswell.
When I took the gearbox out (it is possible leaving the engine in place, but I wouldn't like to do it again!) the clutch fork pivot dowel had sheared off flush from the bell housing, hence the release bearing was not previously engaging the pressure plate in the centre (operating all the 'fingers') so only one half of the clutch was being fully depressed meaning that at a whole the clutch was not fully disengaging when depressing the clutch pedal plus it would become harder to do so.
I knew the clutch fork had moved by looking at the clutch hyd. slave cylinder operating rod! it was not in line, it was at an acute angle and the clutch fork was fouling/resting on one side of the bell housing aperture.
I thought I had done a proper job! renewing complete clutch assembly:- Centre Plate, Pressure Plate (Clutch Cover) and Release Bearing along with a new Clutch Fork and a new dowel for its location (the old sheared off dowel can be punched out from the other end as the drilling goes right through the Bell Housing)
Now I had noticed that although the C/Fork is still located properly the angle of the Clutch Slave Cyl. Operating Rod is acute again, not as much as before! and still not in line properly!
I bought the car back in 2003 (with 80,000km) with all the service history, A year before in 2002 it had a new Alfa Romeo factory Reconditioned Gear Box. I am wondering whether or not the correct type of Gear Box was fitted (and not one which is for the 1.7 Boxer 16 Valve) As you know the location/fixing for the Clutch Hyd. Slave Cylinder is on the engine block secured by a circlip so it is important that the C/Fork end lines up properly otherwise you get incorrect side stresses which would eventually lead to a failure.
I hope there is some useful information for you, although it was some time ago you were having this problem.
Please let me know about the Clutch Hydraulic Slave Cylinder Operating Rod to Clutch Fork End alignment and whether the C/Fork is freely centrally situated in Bell Housing aperture.
Ian Booth (South East London, U.K.)
Last edited by iandbooth; 25-09-11 at 14:38.