You called???? I'm still experiencing ringing in me ear from Le Mans... 48hrs of vrooooooooommmmm vrooooooooooommmm has left me deaf...
but still thurrsty for more beer!
Yes, the lovely boxer block... It's the only clutch change I know how to do!
It's a super job, nothing too difficult and takes ~6hrs.
If you are doing the bearing, you should really also do the plates also... I guess that your car is at 80k miles...??
I'm doing this from memory, so E+OE!!!
Remove complete air intake from trumpet to butterfly valve.
Disconnect pipes to plenum and clean around the base of it on the block.
Remove the front grille and disconnect the support to the radiators.
Jack and support front of car using best practices.
Drain the system using the drain plugs on the underside of the block.
Remove radiator and fan unit.
Remove plenum and seal the intakes to the block with paper. (makes it much easier to access bolts/cables/pipes...)
Remove the torsion bar running horizontal across the engine frame under the gearbox/exhaust manifold.
Drop the exhaust manifold from the block by removing the 8 nuts and also the bracket onto the gearbox.
Locate and remove the bolts and nuts holding the gearbox bell-housing to the block. (Tricky section around starter motor)
Loosen the clutch juice pipe running under the passenger side tie-rod (or steering arm...whatever it's called...) from it's plastic bracket.
Check ability of all pipes and cables running into the block to move forward without snagging. Block movement will be in the range of 4in forward
Remove plate under the clutch bell-housing connected between the block and gearbox (three small bolts).
Remove the two engine mount bolts from the front of the engine frame.
Block should be ready to move at this point. There is a pin running from the engine mount into the front of the frame preventing it from shifting, and block must be lifted about 1.5in upwards first. Try using brute force and ignorance to first check that all bolts from the gearbox are loose, you'll see the seal breaking and engine shifting somewhat.
Drop car off the jacks. Position a trolley jack under the engine block so that it can move forward and backward freely (you will use this to carry the engine block). Using a wooden block on the trolley jack to protect the oil sump, jack the engine block high enough to clear the front pin on the engine mount. With a second trolley jack, support the gearbox so that it doesn't damage itself when the engine moves out.
Using a second person to support and balance the block, use force to separate the block and gearbox. Allow the trolley jack to move with the block, and raise the gearbox support jack as required. Move the block to the maximum allowed distance from the gearbox, minimum distance is about 1.5in's from the back of the spline into the gearbox.
Pay attention during every part of the movement process to every cable and pipe on the block... a break or strain on one of these will mess up the operation...
Access the clutch plate from any available angle. Remove the 10 or so screws retaining the plates and install as normal.
Refitting the block is this process in reverse. Just insert the words "Double check each step" between each line! ;-)