Not been on for a while cos been on nights or fixing the car - the mrs has been reading though.
Giallo thanks for the link - looks like that's the socket to get as I bumped into an old geezer down the tool shop who said the right socket also fits the back of a BMW (pah!) gearbox.
I've done the bearing now - bought an ordinary impact socket (£8.90) and ground it down to fit.
Spent a day and a half all told out in the snow - I hope she bloody appreciates the effort !!
I didn't take any snaps:
a) because it was snowing
b) I was black all over
c) hands were too cold to work the buttons!!
I would recommend a few essential tools for this task
1) Decent bearing puller - the legs on mine were too short and the gripping feet bit not long enough as the hub has a rounded profile and I couldn't get any purchase on it.
2) Ball joint splitter for wishbone.
3) Spring compressors
4) Drifts to pull/press it out - or to hit it as I did.
5) Good quality screwdriver or similar to un-indent the hub nut - I snapped the end of mine in the driveshaft groove - deep joy
6) 17 & 15 mm sockets/spanners for the hub to strut bolts 15 one end 17 the other, same for the ball joint pinch bolt.
7) 19mm socket for brake caliper bolts and piece of string/wire to tie the caliper out of the way.
8) 12 mm deep socket for the brake disc securing bolts (pointy ones that also locate the wheels)
9) Large pry bar and a selection of suitable swear words.
BE WARNED the bearing assembly is not robust at all - do not apply any pressure to the inner sufaces only to the outer casing or the races drop out!!!
My biggest problem was not being brave enough to detach the ABS sensor from the hub as it appeared to be some special super brittle plastic hence the hub was attached to the car at all times and access was limited.
Second biggest problem was the wheel flange came out with inner race cover attached had to angle grind that off!! Live and Learn eh?
I used an old TCT core drill to knock the bearing out by removing the races and striking the central inner lip. To put the new one in I ground down the old outer bearing case and used that simples! Got RSI from hitting it with an old 8lb sledge head though.
Happy days - fixed the drivers window took of steering column surround etc. found two plugs not attatched found likely looking sockets - hey presto fresh air! Can now use the optional - stick arm out of the window direction indicator - which I believe was a no cost option.
Happier days - appear to have fixed right turn clyde problem - extracted stalk and dismantled it. Quite a bit of grease on the circuit board from the steering column cleaned both with rags and the contacts with wire wool - so far so good.
Central locking still not working despite dismantling locks suppose it must be the relay will try to get one and see.
Yet to sort airbag light. I have not seen ABS light for some time now that must be good.
Fitted Volvo 440 wiper arm to near side will get offside one tomorrow when that's sorted suspect I will still need a relay though thank god for Rain X.
I think she will need a new colour at some point I hate maroon I'll take votes on which colour suits best.
Can anyone tell me what the correct tracking angle is supposed to be? I usually do mine with a string line.
Still cant work out the courtesy light issue the rear one comes on when you open the door but the front doesn't
but it does if you use the switch??? In my limited experience there is normally some kind of spring switch on the hinge side but I can't see anything like that there or in the lock mechanism - unless its some sort of continuity circuit - still don't understand why the rear one would still work though - any thoughts.