HI folks today I wish to guide you through the removal of a cylinder head post cambelt failure through to the removal of the valves from the head.
Set of Ribe tools.
Set of Torx tools.
Set of Allen bit tools.
Long arm handle or 20-150 Nm torque wrench (24" long).
Ratchet handles. A variety of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drives make life easier.
Sockets 7mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12,mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm.
Drive Extensions for Ratchet, Various.
Spanners (ring and open ended) 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm. Ratchet spanners may not fit onto some nuts/bolts.
Length of 1/4 inch internal dia hose (for plug removal).
Screwdriver, flat head 2 - 5 mm blade, Philips #2.
Oil filter tool.
Jack/Axle stands or Car lift.
1, OK so to start with disconnect the battery, loosen the O/S wheel bolts, jack up and support or raise the vehicle to remove the wheel and the wheel arch access cover.
2, Remove the Aux belt by taking the tension off using a 15mm spanner in an anti clockwise direction (try and start with the spanner in a 4 o'clock position so as not to trap it against the wishbone when you release it. You can see the original belt condition here too.
3, Next the cam belt cover. I removed this to confirm I was looking at a belt failure, some covers have 5mm hex bolts others have 5mm ribes, depends on the build year. As this is a 1.6 it's the same cover as the 1.8, there's no aircon so 1 cover isn't there. The 2.0 has a different cover and a bottom section too aroung the crank pulleys. You can see the failed belt clearly now.
6, Throttle body off (4 X torx), release the throottle cable by rotating the butterfly clockwise, pull the throttle thogh the rubbe grommet and just rollthe grommet out of the ECU bracket, on the other side is the TPS/IAC plug that needs to be diconnected, undo any cable clips on it and remove the TB from the car.
7, Drain the cooling system, I disconnect the hose from the manifold to the radiator at the top and drain it into a bucket, then remove the 2 13mm bolts that hold on the thermostat to the head.
8, remove the 2 screws that secure the fuel rail to the stub manifold, this is to keep the integrity of the fuel system and prevent explosive fumes escaping and then lever the injector rail from the manifold, ensuring the 'O' ring and plastic washer come with the injectors. You can just undo the hose connector and leave the injectors in the manifold but that WILL spill fuel.
9, PAS reservoir, including my favourite bolt, 2 X 5mm hexes attach this to the head, remove them and lift the res out the way (the lower bolt is trickier on 1.8/2.0 models due to the Variable inlet actuator).
10, Remove the bracket under the res, 13mm bolt and 17mm stud to gain access to the O/S inlet manifold mounting bolt, I have a special 13mm spanner for that bolt, but on the 1.6 there is no support underneath and you can reach under the back of the engine to undo it, the 1.8 and 2.0 DO NOT allow this. On the 2.0 and 1.8 you have to use 18" of extensions to get to the 2 X 15mm bolts at the base of the variable inlet manifold (bottom left image is the support bracket on a 1.8/2.0).
11, undo the 8 clips on the intake manifold boots and slide the manifold backwards and clear of the stub manifold, at this point you may wish to disconnect the MAP sensor plug and brake vacuum hose to remove the manifold, justremember to undo all the cable clips too.
12, Time for the coil packs to come out, depending on the engine type, there will be 3 or 4 Ribe screws holding down the coil pack bracket, then pull off the plug leads and remove the coil packs on the rail.
13, Remove the 9 rocker cover Ribe screws and lift off the cover, the screws should be retained in the cover but may fall out on some people.
14, On a cam belt change at this point you would remove the large plug from each cylinder, fit the DTI to #1 and rotate the engine to #1 TDC, fit the cam locks and then continue with tis step (but that's pointless in this case). So loosen the Cam belt tensioner and remove the belt.
15, Remove the tensioner, idler and cam pulleys (NO orientaion marks are needed).
16, Now to remove the front and rear cam belt covers, water pump, cam position sensor and cam seal plate.
17, Next it's time to remove the cams (no real need to but it's just easier in the car nd if there are unbent valves in the down position then this prevents inadvertant damage to them later, release the cap bolts evenly so the cam lifts squarely.
18, if you lok at the hieght of the tappets then they can give you a clue about potential bent valves, these are very far down (possible guide damage there).
19, Remove the down pipe, 4 X 12mm nuts to the manifold and 2 X 13mm nuts to the CAT, plust any bracket that has not rotted off.
20, Next remove the 8 X 13mm nuts from the exhaust manifold, the 17mm bolt from the oil dip stick holder, the 13mm nut and 10mm bolt from the water manifold bracket and the 2 X 10mm bolts from the water manifold to head joint (far left). Remove the Exhaust manifold from the studs. I got lucky and ALL the studs came out from the head meaning I could leave the downpipe connected.
21, Remove the tappets (if you like) and loosen the 10 X head bolts evenly.
22, Leave in 2 bolts loosely to keep the head in position and rock the head to break the seal (do not use the bolts to rock the head, if it's stiff then use hammer shafts down the plug holes for leverage).
23, Lift off the head and marvel at the mess you've made.
24, On the bench now, remove the stub manifold and check the inlet gasket for the variator channel oil leak, mine had it too.
I use a flapper wheel for the valve faces and brass weel for the stems, this removes the carbon but requires a steady hand, dont rush and be thorough.
Also the roll check to see if they are bent.
The chamber head area is cleaned with a strong meths cleaner, brush to clean off the top layer and swap it round to use the wooden tip to scrub off the stuborn bits, the wood prevents scraping the head or damaging the vavle seats.
Finally in this guide (for now), cleaning the piston crowns, this would be better with the pistons out of the car as I normally do, but the lack of carbon and knowing the engines history I left them in (plus the sump comes off this weekend for the big end shells).
Using the meths cleaner, to clean the pistons and cylinder block.
Really keen to see the guide for the replacement of the big end shells.
Smaky I've got a very bad rattle from the bottom end which i know is the big end shells as the car had a belt snap around 20,000km ago. My question is that the car has been driven for around 1,400km since this noise started (i know you will shoot me for driving it ) I took it to an alfa specialist down In melbourne, Australia and they done all the belts, variator, drive belts and also the valve buckets? This noise is still there and i know it's the big end shells now. Do i need to buy a new crank as a result of it being driven or in most cases can it be reground? Sorry for the thread hijack
Yea i will try that smaky but my issue is that it was a so called "European specialist" which worked on all types of euro cars(many alfa's as well). I doubt he will do anything about it but i'll give it a shot
That's exactly my point mate, there is no way that the mechanics in that workshop will know all brands (engines) well enough to do a decent job hence him not changing the big end shells while fixing the snapped belt, valves, etc that needed doing . Sorry for the threadjack mate
Smaky that is a superb article that you are putting together i had an original belt tensioner break up a while ago and did a head change etc, have the car running well now just got it mot'd but would now like to drop the sump and do the big end bearings so your post will be much appreciated. I also have the original head that i want to rebuild over the winter.