I don't know whether you need to adjust that. It sounds like the ECU has 'learnt' the settings to fit with the K&N filter. Try just disconnecting the battery for about 30 mins, then reconnect. The ECU should then learn it's settings from scratch again, with the normal filter in place.
i think the problem is that there may be dirt inside the fuel injection intake. i would remove the filter (including the pipes) and cleaning what is left. (the carb in little words. of course, it is not a carb but a fuel injecxtion unit or whatever.)
i know i'm not clear.... but i hope its understandable
I went to my local specialist to have them hook up to the car as Hoygaard advised but they couldn't do it there and then and wanted me to leave or book the car in for the day which I couldn't do so I've decided to first check the Fuel injection intake but after a few minutes studying under the bonnet I had to concede and embarrassingly admit to you all that I couldn't find it!!!
Can someone point me in the right direction + direct me to the filter.
Also whilst i'm admitting that I'm new to Alfa's can someone tell me what the Idle Speed Actuator and Throttle sender look like. I've had a look on the parts CD but are still none the wiser.
Gearbox Oil Change
Welding to fix a blowing exhaust
New Engine coolant Sensor
When I picked the car up the light came on with the first turn of the key and stayed on for about ten seconds. Just as I was about to get out to tell the garage the light went out so I've decided to give them the benefit of the doubt for the moment.
Do you think I need to disconnect my battery for half an hour as described in earlier/other posts?
I have a similar problem.
My idle is unstable and it goes from 500 to 1300rpms but only when the car reaches the "normal" temp.
Plus, the injection light is allways on.
I was told at the Alfa dealer that the problem was coming from a crack on the admission manifold (wich I doubt...it“s in plastic) and another dealer told me it could be a malfunctioning Air Mass Sensor.
Something doesn“t work out well...why does it only idle properly when the engine is "cold"
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:<hr /><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Cabreira:
<strong>why does it only idle properly when the engine is "cold"
</strong><hr /></blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I think you need a new Engine Coolant Sensor.
£90.00 spent on an Engine Coolant Sensor and I've still got the same problem.
The injector light always comes on and stays on for a few seconds when I turn the engine on an hour or two since the last drive. My rev's are still the same too. Once the cars warmed up ( before it idles around 900-1000 ) I Idle at around 500 but dip to nearly zero when the clutch is depressed or gentle throttle whilst parking using reverse.
The car Idles fine when it's could but get's worse from 60degrees upwards.
What else could affect it this way? I want to be able to tell the garage what to look for.