I don't know exactly how many phases there are going to be to this project but I can definitely say that phase 1 is complete.
I booked my 2 weeks holidays from work and my plan was to use the 2 weeks to:
1. Strip the interior and fix sound deadening to all panels
2. Run the cabling to be used in the install (power, speaker and data cables)
3. Fit a high end Clifford alarm
4. Refit the interior
I thought 2 weeks was a bit on the generous side as I though I might get the above done in a about a week and a bit and that I would be able to use the rest of my time off to work on various parts of the install. However it turned out that my original estimates were fairly realistic. The stripping of the interior only took about 5/6 hours and the sound-deadening took a day and a bit. The problem started with the alarm or to be more accurate the problem wasn't the alarm itself but integrating it with the 145's eccentric electrics which initially cause me to blow the alarms 20A fuse no less than 4 times. The type of problems encountered are best illustrated in the case of the electric windows.
The alarm provides the facility to automatically close 2 electric windows when the alarm is armed. The alarm manufacturers presumed, like most reasonable people, that both the windows would operate in the same manner. I tested the drivers window motor which rests at 0V and then receives 12V when the window is to go up. So I connected the alarm and tested it and up went the window. I then turned my attention to the passenger window which rests at 12V and one of the wires goes to ground when the window goes up !?! This cause much head scratching for myself and my father (I'm not afraid to ask for help when things start to go wrong) and we debated using a relay to modify how the alarm would control the passenger window. In the end I re-installed the Laserline total closure module, which I bought for the original Laserline alarm which I had completely removed the day before, and wired both windows to this unit and then programmed the new alarm to call the total closure module when arming. So in the end the answer was fairly straightforward but getting to that answer and fitting everything took a full day.
In total it took 13 days to do the work mentioned above and put the car back on the road. I have to say I'd still be at it if it weren't for the help my father gave me with the alarm. I'm fairly handy at doing this stuff but when it comes to electrics there's no substitute for having an electrician to call on [img]smilies/biggrin.gif[/img]
Removing the interior....
Applying the sound-deadening...
Access behind the dash made easier with the help of a plank...
Putting it back together....that mess of wires flowing from the centre of the dash is the alarm loom which had to be hidden from view
All I have to do now is actually start fitting the equipment sitting in my wardrobe at home [img]smilies/smile.gif[/img]